Before you string me up ..

[Ron Sebastian]

I bought the truck this way years ago. It hasn't killed me yet. I would like to get rid of the 3"of blocks in the front. Is it safe to say 3" lift leaf springs would provide the same lift so everything would still line up as it is now? Is Skyjacker or other better for a more comfortable ride?

 

[Vbb199]

3" lift springs will yield a little higher lift than your lift blocks because those are factory looking lift springs with blocks under them, so they have some age, wear, and sag on them.

Brand new leaf springs will have a little more pep in their step and have probably a 1/2" more "lift" than you have now.


Rough country is usually my goto, they have soft ride springs. But everyone's got their preference

 

[Redfish]

@Ron Sebastian can you take a pic of the truck so we can see about how much lift you actually have? I see three leaf springs, the original on a 1987 V10 was actually just two. That means you probably have a little more than just the block, although I agree with @Vbb199 those springs still have some negative arch so they are old and sagging.

I recently installed a set of Skyjacker 2.5 inch SoftRide springs on the front of my '87 V10. They were actually over 3 inches of lift because the spring stack is much thicker than the original 2 leaf setup. I can say that they ride a lot smoother than the OE springs and also much better than the add a leaf lift setup that was already on it. I cannot say how they compare to any other brand.

My truck has 2inch blocks in the rear but on the original rear springs. It's sitting on 33x12.50s.

I have a few pics that may help you:

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[Ron Sebastian]

The pic shows the front higher but it is really fairly level. I'm sure the rear springs are not stock either.

 

[Vbb199]

Man's sending lowkey messages in a question, I love it

Side note, people sometimes forget that on usually the front fender well on a squarebody is deeper/taller on the front than the rear, so because people out of instinct measure "level" of a truck based on the bottom body lines, or wheel to wheel well spacing, they mistake it for "unlevel" even though it really is level



I'm not sure in this instance if the PO did a rear leaf swap or not.
*usually* the 2" lift is like, lift blocks for the back and a different spring up front.

4" lifts being 2" taller leaf springs + 2" lift blocks, and for the front, replacement springs.....

What I'm getting at is, I haven't seen anyone that sells lift kits with front lift blocks...... so I'm inclined to think, if the PO did lift blocks up front, it's a 99.9% chance they did lift blocks on the back also, meaning.... maybe you do have stock leafs out back.

How many individual leafs are there ?

 

[Shorty81]

I would get the nose lowered a bit, she needs a little rake.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

From all I have read the 2.5 Skyjacker leafs will probably work the best for keeping the truck stance about the same and provide a good ride. I'll let you know.

 

[Ron Sebastian]

@Ron Sebastian can you take a pic of the truck so we can see about how much lift you actually have? I see three leaf springs, the original on a 1987 V10 was actually just two. That means you probably have a little more than just the block, although I agree with @Vbb199 those springs still have some negative arch so they are old and sagging.

I recently installed a set of Skyjacker 2.5 inch SoftRide springs on the front of my '87 V10. They were actually over 3 inches of lift because the spring stack is much thicker than the original 2 leaf setup. I can say that they ride a lot smoother than the OE springs and also much better than the add a leaf lift setup that was already on it. I cannot say how they compare to any other brand.

My truck has 2inch blocks in the rear but on the original rear springs. It's sitting on 33x12.50s.

I have a few pics that may help you:

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I can't make out the part number from your pic. Skyjacker site only shows those springs for CJs.

 

[Redfish]

I can't make out the part number from your pic. Skyjacker site only shows those springs for CJs.

If you decide to go with the SkyJacker your best bet is to call their Technical Support line. They will tell you exactly what part #s you need. You will have trouble finding what you need on their website.

You will want their U-Bolt kit, and FYI you will need their bushing kit also. The SkyJacker springs use a different bushing size than the OE springs, you have to use their bushings.

I used SkyJacker because they were based relatively close to my home and they seemed to check all my boxes. I am sure there are other companies that might have done just as well. Tuff Country offers an EZ-Ride spring setup that is supposed to ride really well. Everything I read about Rough Country indicated that they were appropriately named, I didn't see any soft-ride/easy ride options from them.

Edit: When I get home I will see if I have the paperwork for the part numbers.

 

[dvdswan]

Lift blocks on a front axle is never a good thing.

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Obviously, the taller block the more the law of physics multiples. Example: the brakes are on the axle level, the mass that the brakes have to stop is exponentially higher the taller the block. The only item holding that mass are 4 u-bolts.

Now, think of that stubborn bolt/nut you can't break free with your ratchet. So you grab a breaker bar and it still won't break loose. So you grab a pipe to slide over the breaker bar handle. Then either one of 3 things happen; the bolt/nut breaks loose, the socket splits, or the breaker bar attachment breaks off.

Now do you really want to drive a vehicle with lift blocks knowing you have the possibility of hurting yourself, loved ones, or someone else.

 

[Strick]

I've seen the blocks come out and it's not a pretty sight. It happened on a friend's CUCV and it destroyed the bedsides, driveshaft, shocks, parking brake cables, the brake hose and the exhaust. It would have been considerably worse if this had happened on the front end of the vehicle.

Strickland

 

[Grit dog]

I've seen the blocks come out and it's not a pretty sight. It happened on a friend's CUCV and it destroyed the bedsides, driveshaft, shocks, parking brake cables, the brake hose and the exhaust. It would have been considerably worse if this had happened on the front end of the vehicle.

Strickland

Of all the downsides of lift blocks, in the rear, that situation is a result of something improperly installed or improperly torqued. Millions of rear lift blocks that don’t fail or fall out.
However a good warning nonetheless.

 

[Grit dog]

@Ron Sebastian , what is in the rear right now?
Front looks like 3-4” of total lift from stock but pics are deceiving.
If it’s 3 in front, then being level, the rear would have maybe 1” or 2” of lift?

 

[Ron Sebastian]

@Ron Sebastian , what is in the rear right now?
Front looks like 3-4” of total lift from stock but pics are deceiving.
If it’s 3 in front, then being level, the rear would have maybe 1” or 2” of lift?

Grit, not sure of lift in back. I don't know what stock height is. Getting ready to put 4 degree pinion shims in rear, so that might add another half inch. I don't think Skyjacker makes a 2" softride leaf. I'll have to wait to get measurements.

 

[Strick]

Well Grit, he was actually hooked to two other trucks at the time; pavement gives maximum grip when doing "crazy redneck stuff" like pulling against one another...or two if you have a big ego. He had a big ego and a heavy right foot.
I don't have a phobia about using lift blocks in the rear but I definitely advise not to use them in the front. My K5 has some 4" blocks in the rear of it now and it has been beat and hammered on pretty hard. I'll check the ubolts about once a year and look to make certain that the king pin is still set and the block is not walking or turning sideways on the spring.