Beadlock and tires and back spacing.. oh my.

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colonel mustard

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So.... as we all know there squares are never done are they. I ran into a sweat seal in a Dana 60 front and decided I should finally step into the beadlock and 37’s click. I’m still waiting on parts from ORD to swap in my 60 but I went ahead and started mounting the tires on the rims.

Procomp trilogy 17x9 with 4.75” BS.
These things are sweet

16 oz off air soft pellets to balance

37x13.5” BFG km3

Can’t wait for the d60

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I fast test fit
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77 K20

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Now that you have the tires actually mounted I don't suppose you can take some actual measurements of the tire itself? Like how wide is the tread (which might be kinda hard to measure) and what is the height of the tire with weight on it.

What tire pressure are you running also?

I'm still playing with wheel width, offset and would be nice to know how "true" the tires are to the size stated on the sidewall.
 

TubeTruck

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@colonel mustard Could you also take a shot down the side of the truck? I want to see how far the tires stick out of the fenders. Thanks
 
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77 K20

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Well- I ended up buying 2 beadlock wheels yesterday. It isn't in my budget but found them on a great sale. 2 is better than nothing. And now I can test fit them first. I think my wheel studs will be too short on the rear axle for them.

Being that I mainly wanted them for wheeling in the snow and I don't like how water gets trapped in beadlocks I found that KMC wheels makes them with drains.

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The beadlock ring here is upside down showing how the ring will grip the bead preventing it from slipping.

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It also has 2 air stems. If I can find a clamp on tire pressure gauge that will be nice when airing up. Right now it takes over 5 minutes for me to fill up the tire. It would be nice to monitor what pressure it is while filling.

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Wheel is 17x9 and has 3.5" of backspacing.
 

TubeTruck

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Well- I ended up buying 2 beadlock wheels yesterday. It isn't in my budget but found them on a great sale. 2 is better than nothing. And now I can test fit them first. I think my wheel studs will be too short on the rear axle for them.

Being that I mainly wanted them for wheeling in the snow and I don't like how water gets trapped in beadlocks I found that KMC wheels makes them with drains.

You must be registered for see images attach


The beadlock ring here is upside down showing how the ring will grip the bead preventing it from slipping.

You must be registered for see images attach


It also has 2 air stems. If I can find a clamp on tire pressure gauge that will be nice when airing up. Right now it takes over 5 minutes for me to fill up the tire. It would be nice to monitor what pressure it is while filling.

You must be registered for see images attach


Wheel is 17x9 and has 3.5" of backspacing.

The KMC XD wheels are awesome. I plan on getting a set of XD132 RG2 black wheels with the orange ring for my Suburban. 17x9 also.

Tire chuck clamp
 
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colonel mustard

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Now that you have the tires actually mounted I don't suppose you can take some actual measurements of the tire itself? Like how wide is the tread (which might be kinda hard to measure) and what is the height of the tire with weight on it.

What tire pressure are you running also?

I'm still playing with wheel width, offset and would be nice to know how "true" the tires are to the size stated on the sidewall.


hey sorry man I just saw this. I will get you some measurements today
 

77 K20

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The KMC XD wheels are awesome. I plan on getting a set of XD132 RG2 black wheels with the orange ring for my Suburban. 17x9 also.

Tire chuck clamp


Back to the drawing board... the parts store I ordered them from called and canceled by order. Wheels are DISCONTINUED!!! Then why have them on your website and say they are IN STOCK!!!! :Rant:

This is the 4th wheel design I have decided to go with in the last 2 years. I order them. They are in stock. Then a few days get a call- nope YOU CAN'T HAVE THEM. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!

What is that phrase about if it wasn't for **** luck I'd have no luck at all? :rolleyes:

They did come out with a brand new wheel- the gernade. It is similar, but didn't quite like it as much. Drain holes in the ring are gone.

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77 K20

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Oh- they make another version with drain holes...

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77 K20

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I did a bunch of reading. The wheels I ordered were XD229. That "part number" is discontinued. Now they are called KM229. As far as I can tell the wheel is 100% identical. Still made my the same company.

So I can still get them- but at $448/wheel where those other ones I found were "only" $320/wheel.

I need to save up then, as I really really want these wheels.
 

77 K20

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So a small update- but I feel like a kid before Christmas and wanted to share. I've been working out of state and finally decided to start ordering stuff for when I get home.

I bought the KMC Grenade Crawl wheels (shown 2 posts up). There were cheaper than the Machete Crawl wheels. They are lighter, and yet have the same load rating. They are a bit more open- so cleaning and looking at my brakes will be easier.

Wheels are 17x9 with 3.5" of backspacing.

I also just ordered the airsoft pellets from Amazon.

Can't wait to see the wheels in person. :drool:
 

77 K20

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So I'm finally home after spending months working out of state. And many boxes of goodies were waiting for me in the garage. All the parts to finish crossover steering, some off road lights, new rear disc brake rotors, longer wheel studs for the new beadlock wheels, airsoft BBs to use for balancing weights in the tires.

So had to check out the wheels since I've never seen them in person.

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The center caps will actually fit over the front and rear hubs. I'm back to running my full time 4 slugs, so don't need the center caps open. I'm not entirely sure I don't like seeing the hub itself though.

These wheels are really deep. Pictures of anything black are too hard to see. Here is an oil bottle all the way inside the wheel.

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These wheels have 2 valve stems per wheel. I did buy a valve stem tool to pull them through the wheel. Having never done this I have some things to learn. Also don't know what length stem to get, all rubber? All metal? Rubber and metal?? o_O
 

TubeTruck

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For wheeling go all rubber. If you catch a steel one on a rock or branch you could break it then you're pulling your tire to change a valve stem. Rubber will just bend out of the way.
 

77 K20

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For wheeling go all rubber. If you catch a steel one on a rock or branch you could break it then you're pulling your tire to change a valve stem. Rubber will just bend out of the way.

Thanks for the info. The wheel owner manual said something about if using threaded valve stems use sealant. What threaded valve stems? Are all metal ones threaded? Or is that just for TPMS sensors?
 

80BrownK10

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Thanks for the info. The wheel owner manual said something about if using threaded valve stems use sealant. What threaded valve stems? Are all metal ones threaded? Or is that just for TPMS sensors?
Heavy duty valve stems have a nut on them and they thread on and crush the rubber sealing part to the rim. Rubber ones are called snap ins cause they just pull through till they snap. You can buy the cheap valve core tool that's T shaped it threads on the stem and you can just pull it through if useing snap in valves with that tool. No need for the long expensive one with the flexing head they use at a tire shop if your only doing this every now n then. I have replaced several valve stems with just the T shaped valve tool
 

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