ball joint advice

[mr4454]

Hello,
I need to replace my upper and lower ball joints as well as all the bushing on the front end of the truck and wanted to know if I need to remove the locking hub to remove the rotor, or is there an easier way? if I do need to remove the hub what size/lug spindle socket do I need? I attached a pic of my warn hub.
Thanks

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[Arkansas_V8]

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I remove it all, and its a special socket. Smaller one. Big one is 14 bolt.

 

[mr4454]

do you know what the sock it is? as I have no clue
Thanks

 

[Arkansas_V8]

do you know what the sock it is? as I have no clue
Thanks

Hub socket. Autozone has them on the shelf.

 

[Arkansas_V8]

do you know what the sock it is? as I have no clue
Thanks

This should be just what you need for your

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3/4 ton like me.

 

[mr4454]

you're the man!thanks

 

[75gmck25]

You may also want to purchase one of these ball joint spanner wrenches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRDEG/

When you remove the upper ball joint there is a threaded insert/sleeve that is screwed into the hub from the top, and when the ball joint is tightened down it pulls into the insert. A new insert will come with the ball joint, and it should be replaced. You need the wrench above to remove the insert. It is my understanding that the standard sleeve can be replaced with one that has an eccentric design so that an alignment shop can adjust camber. However, I just installed the new ones and didn't worry about it.

Also take a close look at the parts diagram to make sure you get all the seals you need. The diagram has a lot of similar looking parts, and the parts guys sold me the wrong seals the first time. IIRC, there are the standard seals for the inner and outer wheel bearings, but also one or two for the spindle that may need to be replaced if they are in bad shape.

Make sure you understand how to torque the inner and outer nuts for the wheel bearing. The inner is torqued to about 50 ft lbs to set the bearing preload and then backed off 1/4 turn and then hand tightened. The outer nut keeps it all in place and it should be torqued to at least 80 ft lbs. (or as much as 120 ft lbs.).

Bruce

 

[mr4454]

You may also want to purchase one of these ball joint spanner wrenches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRDEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you remove the upper ball joint there is a threaded insert/sleeve that is screwed into the hub from the top, and when the ball joint is tightened down it pulls into the insert. A new insert will come with the ball joint, and it should be replaced. You need the wrench above to remove the insert. It is my understanding that the standard sleeve can be replaced with one that has an eccentric design so that an alignment shop can adjust camber. However, I just installed the new ones and didn't worry about it.

Also take a close look at the parts diagram to make sure you get all the seals you need. The diagram has a lot of similar looking parts, and the parts guys sold me the wrong seals the first time. IIRC, there are the standard seals for the inner and outer wheel bearings, but also one or two for the spindle that may need to be replaced if they are in bad shape.

Make sure you understand how to torque the inner and outer nuts for the wheel bearing. The inner is torqued to about 50 ft lbs to set the bearing preload and then backed off 1/4 turn and then hand tightened. The outer nut keeps it all in place and it should be torqued to at least 80 ft lbs. (or as much as 120 ft lbs.).

Bruce

Thanks for the advice I had no Idea, very kind of you sir.