AC help

Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by WutupYo, Aug 11, 2018.

  1. WutupYo

    WutupYo Junior Member

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    I have an 87 V30. originally a 350 but now a 454. While working on it, I leaned across the engine bay, and subsequently put a crack in one of my AC lines. Now of course I have no refrigerant left and no AC. I'm trying to look for new lines, but can't quite find what I think looks like an exact replacement.

    Also, how can I tell if its been converted to r134a? I am about to google this and will probably find the answer, but figured I'd include the question.

    What else should I replace since I have to service it now anyways. How can I tell if the compressor has a lot of life left in it? Is there even a way?

    Here are some pictures of what the setup under the hood looks like.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Full Access Member

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    Hoses might have been modified from a small block install, but looks like hoses from older big block square equipped with a6 compressor should work. Conversion system usually has conversion fittings on the low side port. Would be recommended to change dryer and orifice tube. Orifice tube filter condition could also give some clue in how compressor is doing. Otherwise a set of gauges on a filled system can show if compressor is working good
     
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  3. Craig 85

    Craig 85 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    @Chugalugg just went though a similar issue on his truck, He may be able to give some pointers. FYI the system on your truck looks very similar to my early production '85 K30 454. The engine is out of my truck so I don't have any pictures.
     
  4. Snoots

    Snoots Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    On an '87 it likely had R12.
    You'll need a new Receiver-Drier, Orfice Tube (get a Variable type), and if it were me, I'd lose that beast compressor and go with a Sanden. Much lighter and reliable. Then you'll need new hoses for the top end (you need them anyway). Flush the rest of the system with the compressor and receiver-drier out.
    When you get all of that out of the way, put it all together with new R134 O-rings and put a vacuum on it. If the vacuum holds, you're good to fill it with R134a with a leak detector and the proper amount of refridgerant oil.
     
  5. WutupYo

    WutupYo Junior Member

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    Excellent info. Thank you. I'm sure it had R12 originally, has the sticker, but wasn't sure if it was converted or not. Is there a reason i should go to R134, or try and stick with R12? @Snoots the Sanden compressor, that is compatible with R12 and R134 (maybe all of them are, I don't know if they are refrigerant specific)? Also, I've seen the shorter ones, but assume that by going with a smaller one, it would mess up the alignment of my belt. Am I not thinking of it correctly? I'm all for conserving room in there.
     
  6. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

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    It’s been converted to R134a. The little low side adapter on the accumulator gives it away. R12 is a great performing refrigerant, but it’s considerably more expensive and much more regulated in its obtainment, purchase, and collection. I prefer the R134a because, even though it hurts if you lose your charge, R134a is universal, accessible, and relatively cheap. I have an R4 compressor, which gets plenty more hate than the A6 ever would, but I checked my discharge temp on a hot but cloudy day, and it was 39*F. I need to check it with the sun bearing down, but my car always keeps me chilly, and I haven’t had any issues (knock on wood).
     
  7. Snoots

    Snoots Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I missed the adapter until I went back and took a closer look in the picture.

    Exactly where did you damage the line?
     
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  8. WutupYo

    WutupYo Junior Member

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    In the first picture, the top line coming from the compressor, once the hard line meets the "soft" line over the compressor, right there. If you look closely you can just notice where it leaked onto the top of the compressor, in between the green wire and the line on top.
     
  9. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Full Access Member

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    Local hose shop if you have one can repair the line with new rubber sections as well.
     
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  10. Snoots

    Snoots Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    It's been many, many moons ago but I had an AC shop fix mine. Leak was under the crimp seal. Cost me $15, I paid him $20 cash. It took him all of 5 minutes to fix it.

    Call around locally.
     
  11. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Full Access Member

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    In our area it is a hydraulic base hose shop that works on them. So look in general hose places, not just ac shop
     
  12. chengny

    chengny Full Access Member

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    Yeah, bad news Jason. It seems that the hose set you need - GM part 15591124 - isn't available anywhere...at any price. No supercessions, no alternate P/N's. There's just nothin' out there. And really, I looked around for quite a while.

    I'd heed the advice offered by Roger & Viktor and just have the hose/tube re-crimped. Either that or start hitting the junkyards.

    Maybe someone here has a set they don't need - post a request in the Wanted section of the classifieds.
     
  13. WutupYo

    WutupYo Junior Member

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    Thats a bummer. Thanks for the info though.

    I'll start hunting around for someone to repair it. Maybe I'll get lucky.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but as long as the length is there, all the fittings should be the same size, its just the shape that might be different? In theory, I could get a set of lines that may be shaped differently but if I can get them to route where they're needed, they will work just the same as whats on there right? If it comes to that...
     
  14. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Full Access Member

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    If all else fails send to coldhose.com and they will fix them
     
  15. chengny

    chengny Full Access Member

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    To take that idea a step further, just from looking at the 454 hose set vs. a 350 set...I can't see any reason you couldn't use a 350 set.

    The only difference I can see is the routing, but they both end up in the same places.

    On a 350 set, the compressor discharge hose to the condenser runs just behind the fan shroud - along with the suction hose. The 454 discharge hose goes in the same direction - it just runs across the top of the shroud. And it has a aluminum mid-section.

    As far as the suction hose, it is routed the same way on both the SBC and your BBC (but not as shown in the service manuals). And as with the discharge hose, the manuals show the suction hose as having a section of aluminum tubing inserted between two rubber hose ends - yours isn't like that.

    The dwgs provided in the service manuals cause even more confusion. Note that none of the setups (86,87,88 SBC or BBC) look like what you have installed. See below.

    Actual hose set and installation in a 86 SBC:

    s-l1600.jpg
    pw socket 016.jpg

    Dwgs from the 86 and 88 service manuals - for a 454:

    86 hoses.JPG
    88 hoses.JPG

    And here is were it really gets confusing. This is the dwg from the 87 service manual. It shows the hose set used with both the 350 and 454 as being identical:

    Pages from ST_330_87_1987_Chevrolet_Light_Duty_Truck_Service_Manual[1].JPG

    Yours looks more like the 6.2 diesel setup - except for the suction hose.

    IDK. If I were you I would install whichever hose set you can get. I think any of them will fit - the left to right dimension of the truck didn't change from year to year - and they are all just simple refrigeration hoses. Just be sure to get the set that goes to an A-6 compressor - the way the manifold bolts up to the suction/discharge ports might be different than with an R-4.
     

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