AC, finally

[spanky55amg]

I haven owned this truck for 2 years and it has had working AC.
Up until January when I replaced the engine. The system was sealed.
I now have a TBI belt system on.

So I’m going to get 1988 C1500 AC hoses
1984 Accumulator
Ford Blue price tube
ac o-ring kit
A flush kit
Pag oil


1. Am I forgetting something?
2. How much 134-a am I looking to have to get?

 

[C10MixMaster]

I haven owned this truck for 2 years and it has had working AC.
Up until January when I replaced the engine. The system was sealed.
I now have a TBI belt system on.

So I’m going to get 1988 C1500 AC hoses
1984 Accumulator
Ford Blue price tube
ac o-ring kit
A flush kit
Pag oil


1. Am I forgetting something?
2. How much 134-a am I looking to have to get?

i dont think i would admit to using a ford orifice tube on a chevy

 

[75gmck25]

I assume you are converting it from R12 (freon) to R134a? Are you also replacing the compressor? Getting all the old oil out of the compressor is more difficult because a flush won't get it all, but some compressors do have a drain plug you can remove.

The usual recommendation is to look up the R12 charge in the repair manual, and then start with charging it with R134a at about 75% of the R12 charge. Then check gauges and add a little more if necessary. About 85% would be the max.

The Ford blue orifice tube is recommended (vice the original GM white) because it has a smaller orifice that is supposed to work better with R134a. YMMV. Last time I bought one I think it was only about $2-3, so its not a major component.

Bruce

 

[spanky55amg]

edit:

This is a newer compressor that came with the engine. I was told it it was working and it there was clean new oil coming out of the compressor when I was putting the engine back in.

but its a TBI engine and brackets. So its on the "other" side of the vehicle. So Im not really worried about the compressor.

 

[spanky55amg]

The Ford blue orifice tube is recommended (vice the original GM white) because it has a smaller orifice that is supposed to work better with R134a. YMMV. Last time I bought one I think it was only about $2-3, so its not a major component.

yup

 

[78C10BigTen]

I assume you are converting it from R12 (freon) to R134a? Are you also replacing the compressor? Getting all the old oil out of the compressor is more difficult because a flush won't get it all, but some compressors do have a drain plug you can remove.

The usual recommendation is to look up the R12 charge in the repair manual, and then start with charging it with R134a at about 75% of the R12 charge. Then check gauges and add a little more if necessary. About 85% would be the max.

The Ford blue orifice tube is recommended (vice the original GM white) because it has a smaller orifice that is supposed to work better with R134a. YMMV. Last time I bought one I think it was only about $2-3, so its not a major component.

Bruce

Is r12 stock on these ol dogs? My 78 had AC but i took it off and i want to put it back on and im looking to see what its supposed to have

 

[C10MixMaster]

Is r12 stock on these ol dogs? My 78 had AC but i took it off and i want to put it back on and im looking to see what its supposed to have

78 came with r12 but if your rebuilding the system your better off switching to r134 unless you have a cheep supply of r12 on hand. mine is switched to r134 and blows plenty cold here in AZ.

 

[78C10BigTen]

78 came with r12 but if your rebuilding the system your better off switching to r134 unless you have a cheep supply of r12 on hand. mine is switched to r134 and blows plenty cold here in AZ.

I still have all the factory parts to put back on...

 

[C10MixMaster]

I still have all the factory parts to put back on...

you can use all the factory parts. I did. just drain and blow out everything to remove as much oil as possible. use a 134 orifice tube. pag 150 oil. and charge with 134.