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76 crew cab

Discussion in '2wd Pick-Ups C/R 20 2500 C/R 30 3500' started by TheFishBox, Nov 13, 2016.

  1. Craig 85

    Craig 85 Full Access Member

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    454/TH-400/NP205
  2. climb-101

    climb-101 Full Access Member

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    i cut the cross member out of my crew cab, got the motor where i wanted it, then figured out a new one. i put mine in front of the motor, there is no reason it has to be under the motor.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
  3. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    Not sure if it has just been a while since I ordered stuff from rock auto but it seems shipping has gone up a lot during this covid-19 deal. 163 dollars to ship two front floor pans and two front rockers seems like a lot. I need to post a few pictures of my progress on the patch panels I have put in so far.
     
  4. DoubleDingo

    DoubleDingo When In Doubt, Throttle Out

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    Bagoomba
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    81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
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    Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
    Might just be that they're big items? Light but bigger boxes needed
     
  5. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    How would you guys recommend fixing this hole in the door jamb? Seems like it will be a pain in the a** to cut a piece out and try to weld a patch back in. The shop I took it to that didn’t do any work said that he would just use jb weld to seal it up. This seems like the easiest way but I don’t know if that is something a guy would want to do. I know the easiest way isn’t usually the right way.

    D34E96AC-F3CE-4A42-961C-01175802259E.jpeg
     
  6. Craig 85

    Craig 85 Full Access Member

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    My worry would be rust reappearing where I marked the yellow arrows. I'm assuming the water came from the trim screws holding on the drip rails, thus causing the rust through where the seams are. I would be worried about rust between the layers.

    If you don't want to peel the layers, Eastwood makes a rust encapsulator for frames you may be able to spray in there, but I think you need to neutralize the rust first with something like SEM Rust Mort.
    Crew cab door jamb.jpeg

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  7. climb-101

    climb-101 Full Access Member

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    if a shop was just going to JB weld it i would never go back to that shop.

    i would cut it out and remake that area and weld it back in or go to a junk ward and cut it out of another truck and weld it back in
     
  8. Mr Clean

    Mr Clean Full Access Member

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    1982
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    K10 Extra Cab w/ Proper SWB, & 82 2WD Blazer
    Engine Size:
    454 BBC, & 383 Stroker
    The only real way to fix that is like what climb-101 said. Cut it out, and fix it right.

    You need to go back to the shop That said fix it with JB weld and hit him in the head with a tack hammer....
     
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  9. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    More removal damn rust is everywhere. I hope to have the kick panel removed and rust neutralized this weekend so I can start welding patches back in, then rinse and repeat on the passenger side.

    65C27E35-98C4-44D5-B2D9-1E3D7F447F47.jpeg
     
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  10. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    Man between the fact that this truck was wrecked and then buying Taiwan patch panels things take a lot of massaging. Good thing I decided to put the fenders on before I welded the rocker in cause I would have been way damn off. Floor pan is in now but I forgot to take a picture of it. Here she is with my mismatched panels.

    DD31F044-F8BE-417B-AFFD-BD1F3FF70F94.jpeg

    542604DF-D48E-4CAF-90FC-42E2724FADCF.jpeg
     
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  11. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    What needs to happen here to get the body lines to match up? On both sides if the mid door body line matches the fender bottom doesn’t match the rocker bottom by about 3/8ths of an inch.

    00ED214A-5228-4E39-B128-3C4079B68C3A.jpeg
     
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  12. lumpyc10

    lumpyc10 Junior Member

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    silverado
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    305
    Shim core support up or down and keep hood opening close to square as you can.thats done by finding a spot on cowl the same on both sides and on core supt and x measure
     
  13. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    Well I tackled the door jamb rust in the driver side today. It wasn’t to bad but time consuming for sure. I still need to do some more touch up to make it look better but it is a far cry better than it was. Oooh and that damn internal frame coating makes a damn mess.

    4D88C4F8-7530-4868-A0B9-34909C27B70C.jpeg

    64AB3245-55A9-4CA0-BB25-5DAC6A103D2B.jpeg

    D3FBE4F3-6B00-4359-8A8A-7C87F45B184D.jpeg

    838EE584-9D94-407D-A1A2-8C974EE80F8C.jpeg
     
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  14. TheFishBox

    TheFishBox Full Access Member

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    This truck originally came with a manual so with the 4l80e I need to come up with a way to shift it. Do I go with a floor shifter like the winters? Or take the auto column from my other square and make that work?
    Is a floor shifter a pain to reach in these trucks? I like the idea of the factory look with the column shifter just unsure what it’s going to take to get there.
     
  15. Big Chip

    Big Chip Full Access Member

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