RanchWelder
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2023
- Posts
- 777
- Reaction score
- 1,111
- Location
- Earth
- First Name
- --------
- Truck Year
- 87
- Truck Model
- Blazer
- Engine Size
- 355ci
Before I remove the 4L80E to verify the pump pressure regulator valve is not obstructed, I'm looking to verify the NEW B solenoid is not stuck open.
Anyone with a proven method to test (besides the continuity test), which they both passed?
How do you test the solenoid valve is actually not stuck open on a new GM Solenoid?
What is the test procedure to verify the electrical circuit from the Compushift 2, is actually sending the signal to the transmission connector to the solenoid?
Have the pin-out diagram for the connector from the TCM.
Re-pinned it myself and verified it with 3 service and repair manuals.
The inner harness was sealed with 3M 8000 to the case and covering the harness plugs.
The external harness is not yet sealed, where I had to re-pin for my application.
Purchased the Compushift 2 for a great deal, because it was pinned for the Cadilac version of the FWD 4L80E.
The gentleman from HGM complimented me for realizing it just required a few pins to move for my version and how cheap it was as a result. The seller had no idea what he had. It was brand new never used, complete with harness and controller.
I'm not getting and codes from the head unit. The VSS, RPM, temps and TPS programming is completed without errors.
CSII is not throwing a code. The switch is showing proper gear, so the push button switch, which tested good at every pin, is working properly.
Have a lump in an A/C to 12v D/C with alligator clips I use for 12v dash and electronics testing.
However, not certain there's enough voltage to test the 4L80 solenoids using this, or if it will give me a false positive, with a click, when the plunger is still actually stuck open? Don't want to damage anything that isn't broken either.
When I pulled the transmission connector, as per the Sonnax No Reverse isolation test, my foot on the brake, with the transmission in reverse, had 60 PSI and throttle up, it only hit 180-195 psi.
The Sonnax engineer told me I should be seeing 300+ during this test.
He suggested an orifice or pressure regulator being blocked or restriction in the hydraulic circuit.
So reading hundreds of pages on GM Blogs, I found a frustrated re-builder who ripped his transmission out, before he properly tested the 2-3 solenoid for proper closing function, as per an expert advisor.
Any of you know a proven method that I can try to test the 2-3 "B" solenoid?
It would be great news to isolate an improper solenoid before dis-assemble and re-build, clean and verify zero 3rd / Reverse check balls and the center support runs for possible contamination.
My forward drum had a few sharp edges, so I cleaned them up with fine sandpaper and scrubber.
92K miles on the drum seals. All new bushings, (except for the center support).
The new center support I ordered from a well known high performance online store, was shipped with a billet piston, however my request it be machined down .040", (so the center support frictions he also sold me, would fit properly), could not be installed. I could have skinned a friction on both sides to make it work, which I have learned after the fact.
My calls to request a replacement or an answer why my request at the time of purchase, were all ignored.
So I'm out $300 and had to re-use the old center support, because I had no press fixture to replace the long bronze bushing.
It was not very worn, to be sure.
Verified the diameter.
It was within .004" of the new bushing on the HD unit he sold me.
The new bushing, most likely would have had to be polished to install, due to crush from the install anyways.
Went with new regular Teflon main shaft to forward drum seals, although I did purchase the blue over-sized set as well.
When I read they require reaming and sizing, I opted to just re-install the standard set.
It is possible my lack of experience and the actual wear was not within spec, or might have been made worse when it was mildly cleaned up by me. It was crunch time and back then I was being threatened with eviction on a daily basis.
Some of that pressure has been de-escalated, Thank God.
I'm over it and just want to get down the road with whatever I can and move on, at this point.
The damage has been done. The mining interests moving in here have taken over the population with dreams of high property re-sales and huge tax increases to force out the poor or retired locals, in our poor town.
Mass psychosis and greed have everyone thinking they are all going to get rich from the new mine.
It's really sad to watch.
There's no apartments or affordable housing anymore, in a town that was 85% both just 3 years ago.
There's a forward drum on the way, so I can replace the original, with re-manufacture unit that has been reamed and sleeved for what I hope is standard Teflon seals.
Bought this from the only re-manufacturer on eBay that states reaming and sleeve-ing on his sale page, so can be properly resolved, in my mind, as a possible point of failure; if/when I am forced to open it all back up again.
Had a crumb drop into the pump circuit, (after pressure testing everything and verifying good psi), when I opted to remove the filter bushing AFTER re-assembly of the core. Another dumb move. Probably could have been left alone, to avoid a stoopid human move. Live and learn.
When I pulled the pump and split to stater, found what I thought was the only chunk that fell down into the pump circuit. Because of time restrictions and threats of being forced to move, I moved forward with the install. The pressure of the situation caused me to move forward when the entire circuit should have been torn down, cleaned out and pressure tested again. There could have easily been another crumb stuck to assembly lube, somewhere in the pressure valve.
Said a prayer on both knees at the fixture, and closed the cover, hoping and praying for the best.
It is possible a small piece found it's way into the Sure Cure Pressure valve or the Sonnax AFL, which was reamed and installed during the re-build.
Also ordered a new Sonnax #7 check ball seat, which was not available when rebuilding the Valve body a month ago.
Just in case it is damaged or contaminated.
The #11 check ball seats were both changed using the Sonnax kit, which included new aluminum seats, the spring and the o-ring plug in the kit.
Polished all the pin orifices, so they could not cut the new o-rings and bench buddy every valve hole, except for the #7, since it was previously working and there was no replacement seat available at the time. (Probably a poor decision, forced to save any time possible).
Nobody should be forced to rebuild any transmission, under threat of eviction, after securing a hand shake deal to tool up and use the garage for a year (or two), to recoup the investment of the tolls and shop equipment, required to undertake the complexity of this process, in my humble opinion.
Very upset my surviving landlord is reneging on her husband's deal with me.
The pressure to build and leave is extraordinary, when I have never evaluated or diagnosed a fresh rebuild for errors.
The hundreds of mistakes a seasoned re-builder must have gone through, is finally sinking in.
Very much respect to you guys and girls that have suffered through the learning process!
Must be nice to have a Dyno.
It was supposed to be no pressure, learn what to do and have fun over the next year or more.
Now it's not as much fun.
Please advise.
Nicktransmissions or MattOlds do you have a clue or two for me?
Anyone with a proven method to test (besides the continuity test), which they both passed?
How do you test the solenoid valve is actually not stuck open on a new GM Solenoid?
What is the test procedure to verify the electrical circuit from the Compushift 2, is actually sending the signal to the transmission connector to the solenoid?
Have the pin-out diagram for the connector from the TCM.
Re-pinned it myself and verified it with 3 service and repair manuals.
The inner harness was sealed with 3M 8000 to the case and covering the harness plugs.
The external harness is not yet sealed, where I had to re-pin for my application.
Purchased the Compushift 2 for a great deal, because it was pinned for the Cadilac version of the FWD 4L80E.
The gentleman from HGM complimented me for realizing it just required a few pins to move for my version and how cheap it was as a result. The seller had no idea what he had. It was brand new never used, complete with harness and controller.
I'm not getting and codes from the head unit. The VSS, RPM, temps and TPS programming is completed without errors.
CSII is not throwing a code. The switch is showing proper gear, so the push button switch, which tested good at every pin, is working properly.
Have a lump in an A/C to 12v D/C with alligator clips I use for 12v dash and electronics testing.
However, not certain there's enough voltage to test the 4L80 solenoids using this, or if it will give me a false positive, with a click, when the plunger is still actually stuck open? Don't want to damage anything that isn't broken either.
When I pulled the transmission connector, as per the Sonnax No Reverse isolation test, my foot on the brake, with the transmission in reverse, had 60 PSI and throttle up, it only hit 180-195 psi.
The Sonnax engineer told me I should be seeing 300+ during this test.
He suggested an orifice or pressure regulator being blocked or restriction in the hydraulic circuit.
So reading hundreds of pages on GM Blogs, I found a frustrated re-builder who ripped his transmission out, before he properly tested the 2-3 solenoid for proper closing function, as per an expert advisor.
Any of you know a proven method that I can try to test the 2-3 "B" solenoid?
It would be great news to isolate an improper solenoid before dis-assemble and re-build, clean and verify zero 3rd / Reverse check balls and the center support runs for possible contamination.
My forward drum had a few sharp edges, so I cleaned them up with fine sandpaper and scrubber.
92K miles on the drum seals. All new bushings, (except for the center support).
The new center support I ordered from a well known high performance online store, was shipped with a billet piston, however my request it be machined down .040", (so the center support frictions he also sold me, would fit properly), could not be installed. I could have skinned a friction on both sides to make it work, which I have learned after the fact.
My calls to request a replacement or an answer why my request at the time of purchase, were all ignored.
So I'm out $300 and had to re-use the old center support, because I had no press fixture to replace the long bronze bushing.
It was not very worn, to be sure.
Verified the diameter.
It was within .004" of the new bushing on the HD unit he sold me.
The new bushing, most likely would have had to be polished to install, due to crush from the install anyways.
Went with new regular Teflon main shaft to forward drum seals, although I did purchase the blue over-sized set as well.
When I read they require reaming and sizing, I opted to just re-install the standard set.
It is possible my lack of experience and the actual wear was not within spec, or might have been made worse when it was mildly cleaned up by me. It was crunch time and back then I was being threatened with eviction on a daily basis.
Some of that pressure has been de-escalated, Thank God.
I'm over it and just want to get down the road with whatever I can and move on, at this point.
The damage has been done. The mining interests moving in here have taken over the population with dreams of high property re-sales and huge tax increases to force out the poor or retired locals, in our poor town.
Mass psychosis and greed have everyone thinking they are all going to get rich from the new mine.
It's really sad to watch.
There's no apartments or affordable housing anymore, in a town that was 85% both just 3 years ago.
There's a forward drum on the way, so I can replace the original, with re-manufacture unit that has been reamed and sleeved for what I hope is standard Teflon seals.
Bought this from the only re-manufacturer on eBay that states reaming and sleeve-ing on his sale page, so can be properly resolved, in my mind, as a possible point of failure; if/when I am forced to open it all back up again.
Had a crumb drop into the pump circuit, (after pressure testing everything and verifying good psi), when I opted to remove the filter bushing AFTER re-assembly of the core. Another dumb move. Probably could have been left alone, to avoid a stoopid human move. Live and learn.
When I pulled the pump and split to stater, found what I thought was the only chunk that fell down into the pump circuit. Because of time restrictions and threats of being forced to move, I moved forward with the install. The pressure of the situation caused me to move forward when the entire circuit should have been torn down, cleaned out and pressure tested again. There could have easily been another crumb stuck to assembly lube, somewhere in the pressure valve.
Said a prayer on both knees at the fixture, and closed the cover, hoping and praying for the best.
It is possible a small piece found it's way into the Sure Cure Pressure valve or the Sonnax AFL, which was reamed and installed during the re-build.
Also ordered a new Sonnax #7 check ball seat, which was not available when rebuilding the Valve body a month ago.
Just in case it is damaged or contaminated.
The #11 check ball seats were both changed using the Sonnax kit, which included new aluminum seats, the spring and the o-ring plug in the kit.
Polished all the pin orifices, so they could not cut the new o-rings and bench buddy every valve hole, except for the #7, since it was previously working and there was no replacement seat available at the time. (Probably a poor decision, forced to save any time possible).
Nobody should be forced to rebuild any transmission, under threat of eviction, after securing a hand shake deal to tool up and use the garage for a year (or two), to recoup the investment of the tolls and shop equipment, required to undertake the complexity of this process, in my humble opinion.
Very upset my surviving landlord is reneging on her husband's deal with me.
The pressure to build and leave is extraordinary, when I have never evaluated or diagnosed a fresh rebuild for errors.
The hundreds of mistakes a seasoned re-builder must have gone through, is finally sinking in.
Very much respect to you guys and girls that have suffered through the learning process!
Must be nice to have a Dyno.
It was supposed to be no pressure, learn what to do and have fun over the next year or more.
Now it's not as much fun.
Please advise.
Nicktransmissions or MattOlds do you have a clue or two for me?