2in or 4in?

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Leitschuh

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Wanting to lift the k10, trying to decide if i should go rough country 2in suspension lift or rough country 4in suspension lift. I would appreciate any feedback on what else i would need to upgrade for the lifts and if anyones had any drive train problems, thank yall.
 

The88

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Have you looked up replacing the front springs with 52s? Would give you about 4in of lift for next to nothing then you could do a shackle flip in the back.

That is something I am considering doing myself. Will be going to dig at the pull a part when I see a square pop up.
 

Frankenchevy

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2" and most of your existing stuff will work i.e. steering, brake lines, etc. 4" is pushing it on not needing to change steering components based on what ORD told me.
 

Crispy

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x2 on the 2" unless you want to drop some coin on supporting mods to make it all work correctly. Also, consider tuff country springs if you are looking for a nicer ride.

Also at 4" you're gonna want considerably bigger tires to fill the wheel wells and depending on your stock gearing that will make your truck slower.
 

donnieray

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I'm real pleased with a 3" Tuff Country EZ Ride. Stock brake lines would have been ok I think but they were dried up so I replaced them with slightly longer lineS and also installed a raised steering arm. I like the ride and stance with 33x12.50 BFG AT'S.
 

shiftpro

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x2 on the 2" unless you want to drop some coin on supporting mods to make it all work correctly. Also, consider tuff country springs if you are looking for a nicer ride.

Also at 4" you're gonna want considerably bigger tires to fill the wheel wells and depending on your stock gearing that will make your truck slower.
Tuff Country all the way, much better all around.
 

Craig 85

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I'm real pleased with a 3" Tuff Country EZ Ride. Stock brake lines would have been ok I think but they were dried up so I replaced them with slightly longer lineS and also installed a raised steering arm. I like the ride and stance with 33x12.50 BFG AT'S.

Ditto on this, but I did a 4" Tuff Country on my '79 truck. The only other thing I can add to this is the ORD sway bar disconnect kit. This was my '87 with a 4" lift to give you a comparison. This is circa 1989 with a Rancho lift (very rough). Tires were 33x12.50x16.5's (32.8").

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Charlie

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:welcome:
 

donnieray

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Ditto on this, but I did a 4" Tuff Country on my '79 truck. The only other thing I can add to this is the ORD sway bar disconnect kit. This was my '87 with a 4" lift to give you a comparison. This is circa 1989 with a Rancho lift (very rough). Tires were 33x12.50x16.5's (32.8").

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I also used the ORD sway bar disconnect kit but I'm not sure it was necessary with 3" of lift, I liked it and thought it was a good idea. I like the rig there btw.
 

shiftpro

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I also used the ORD sway bar disconnect kit but I'm not sure it was necessary with 3" of lift, I liked it and thought it was a good idea. I like the rig there btw.
The less arch in a spring, the more it flexes. If you ran long shocks with a raised or ferd upper shock mount, disconnect the sway-bar, big tires and cut fenders, long travel slip joints on your drive shafts and low gearing you would have a rock monster.
 

77 K20

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Welcome! There are some very good responses here. One thing to consider- what do you need out of your truck? What are your priorities?
-Budget? Low budget? Have extra $$?
-Work truck? Still have to haul maximum payload in the bed? Never haul anything?
-Comfort? Want it to ride smoother? As smooth as possible?
-Off road? Just some forest service/gravel roads? Making your own roads to go places no truck was designed? Do you want lots of articulation? In town cruising and for looks?
Height restrictions? Tow a trailer/5th wheel? Have a garage to park it in and can't be too high?
-Terrain? Dirt? Mud? Snow? If you lift with rear blocks it can make the rear axle hop depending on what you're doing. But blocks are cheap...

Just some things to consider before your build.
 

kenn

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I would second the tuff country springs over rough country (softer ride)
I would have a few hundred bucks put up for replacements parts along the way
I did 4 inch lift had to replace dry rot front brake lines 80$ had to replace drivers front hard line (flare nut rusted to flex line and snapped off) 20$
when I removes steering link to install raised steering arm, the ball joints were toast so replaced steering arm link 100$
ORD sells extended brake line kit for 100$ (front and back) wish I would have gone with that , the little tab they give you with kit works, but looks like a cheap fix

Seems every time I tear something apart, I always find more to repair
 

Dysco

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It depends on what you want it to be. If you want mainly looks, save hassle and go 2" with 33"tires. Will look great, and save you money over 35"tires, then need to change gear ratio, brake line, etc.
 

ghopp24

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im on 33's with no lift. thinking of going 2 inch tuff country for the better ride.
 

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