241c transfer case

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dcameron787

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Hey Guys, wondering if anyone has a 241c transfer case they would like to sell? I need a passenger side drop with a vss found on th 89-91 burbs and blazers. Need a 32 spline but would consider a 27... let me know if anyone has one or a lead on where to get it.
 

yevgenievich

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It has mostly became easier to retrofit vss to older transfer case instead of trying to find vss equipped 241c
 

rpcraft

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Just checking why you think you need it? Is there something wrong with the current unit you have? You can get a NP208 and convert it to 32 spline shaft and adapt a Dakota Digital VSS adapter and have a freshly rebuilt transfer case for about 250 to 300 bucks if you already have one...
 

dvdswan

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I will take a look at the 241 I have. I don't remember if its pass or dr. side drop.
 

dcameron787

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I’m thinking of switching directions on this. I currently have the 32 spline 208 with the Dakota didgital vss. They just don’t work, even the new gps version Does not work. I have confirmed this with several tuners. I’m going to keep the 208 and add in the second reluctor ring on the 4l80e and use that as my vss. I won’t be able to get out of first gear if I use 4 low but I’m ok with that.
 
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rpcraft

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The problem with using the output on the 4l80E is your truck is not going to do 4wd properly without a tcase output to match it as well from what I have been told. something about it not being able to match engine speed to the proper output shaft speed. I am not a tuner though but plenty of them have told me that using the dakota VSS 8K sensor can be set up in the PCM? What tuners have you talked to? Just local guys? Also what VSS adapter are you using currently?
 

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Inline cable adapter from jags that run would work for your computer
 

dcameron787

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Below is the response from my tuner(frost)on the DD VSS(very bottom) I have it installed now and it does nothing. I have ran the truck with it hooked up and connected with no difference. I’m not complaining, the truck runs great and does not stall, but it has trouble finding idle when you come to a stop. It also throws the P0506 code related to not having the vss. My current set up is the turbo 400. Going to just take the plunge and put a 4wd 4l80e and add the rear vss and use that. From what I have re searched this should work when I’m in 2wd and 4hi. If not I will continue the hunt for a 241c. There is a 241c for sale local with a 27 sline that I may pick up and look into converting it to a 32. I will make sure to post my results. I have to order a bunch of things so will probably be a few weeks before I get started.

Hey David,

it's not a pain, but it touches on a gray area for mail ordering.... we don't do a lot of advising builds that we aren't building, but I feel inclined to tell you that that DD VSS generator is just not going to work (as you think and as they say). The reason I usually don't mention things like this, is it leads to "tell me what to do then" or the individual becoming upset. I don't have advice here to give on an alternative. We used to use a part for th400s to add a late model toothed reluctor/gear but they are no longer available. I scale for them (the DD unit that you have), but you can't adjust the minimum time between pulses to declare 0 speed. My answer if pushed to tell me what to do is use a late model tranny with a proper VSS. Sure lots of guys do what you are doing. Lots of them fight with them for quite some time. Everything else is legit; sensor wise.
 

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Sounds like need to do some troubleshooting, verify the wiring and see what computer is seeing. There are also factory solutions that use gear drive to electronic conversion like used in 87-89 Firebirds. Computer does not care where signal comes from. Problem with different converters is that they do not always output what computer expects to see due to variations over the years. Ls computer can be programmed but it is more or less trial and error and often needs to be done live in the vehicle while driving. This makes the preprogramming difficult unless you use complete factory setup.
 

rpcraft

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I can't accept that he is saying they can not account for zero speed input because of the fact that it can be tuned on the PCM for zero on manual transmissions with no VSS input (2wd or otherwise) and then it will not have the idle stop/cut out I think you are talking about. I am going to make a recommendation you reach out to a tuner at LSX Specialties (You'll have to look them up on facebook if you want instant message access but that is the easiest way to get ahold of him). Alternatively he has a phone @ at 541-821-2993. Like your tuner he has mail order tuning and should be able to understand the feedback you offer and give an opinion on the matter with no cost involved and he has been very helpful offering feedback on tuning matters.

Also Just curious what VSS unit you are using? I think I know what it is but knowing might help me ask a couple of questions across the spectrum of tuner friends I know. Alternatively, if you are not already subscribed, get on facebook and get into the group named LS Swapped Square Body GM Trucks ('73-'86 C/K & '87-'91 R/V) and ask for some opinions as well. I've found that one tuner may not have an answer but you might get a lot of feedback there if you can filter through it all and also maybe get access to a part that you can use instead of swapping a hole transmission because once you go that route you will also be having to have two driveshafts adjusted as well as moving your t-case shifter and cross-member..
 

rpcraft

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Also might be worth usign a multimeter or some other test device to measure the output that is coming off the current VSS. Might be dead for all you know?
 

rpcraft

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dcameron787

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Thanks for all the great advice. I will jump on Facebook and have a look on ls swapped sq. Bodies. I’m using the same vss as the link above but mine is the pass through version. I think I’m going to just go ahead with the tranny swap. Besides solving the vss issue it will make the truck a little more driveable on the highway. I would love to get the 6l80e in but I don’t think there is anyone making a reliable standalone controller for it. My motor is an LQ4 so I think I’m stuck with the 4l80.....
 

rpcraft

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Just curious why you are using the pass through version? Trying to stick with the stock speedo? if so just find a electric unit out of a 90-91 Blazer, burb, or crew cab 4wd and you will simplify your problems. You can usually find the clusters for around 80 to 100 bucks.
 

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