2-piece Long bed driveshaft

WamboJambo

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Selling two-piece driveshaft from long-bed truck. Swapped from 3-on-the-tree Saginaw to SM465, don't need anymore. If I know anything about these trucks, it should fit any long-bed 3 speed column-shift manual or any long-bed automatic, but I still know shockingly little about these trucks so I might be wrong. I marked all joints when I removed it but the carrier bearing and u-joints are all original so I'm sure they need replacing, but at least you shouldn't need to balance it. All u-joints are 1310s. Free to any member I can meet nearby, otherwise I'd ask you to pay for shipping.
 

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WamboJambo

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Only 5 files at a time so more pictures
 

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SirRobyn0

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I do know that the TH350 and 700R4 have the same length tail shaft where as the TH400 is different I believe shorter, but I have no idea if the saginaw is the same as any of those.

I can change the end that actually slides into the transmission that's fine. Could you give me some measurements?

Could you measure from the edge of the carrier bearing on the transmission side to the welded on the driveshaft closest to the transmission. And then again from weld to weld on the rear section of the driveshaft?

I assume your willing to ship? And how much are you looking to get for it?
Thanks.
 

WamboJambo

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@SirRobyn0

Not sure about any of those unfortunately, all I can speak to is that the SM465 is shorter than the saginaw :(

Here's some quick (garbage) measurements, let me know if I can do anything to make it clearer but the welds were a little fuzzy.

WTW transmission side was approximately 23.5" (more like 23.625 but again idk how to measure appropriately)

WTW axle-side was just about 34" exactly.

Not looking to get anything for it other than however much it costs to ship it. Don't want to make any money, just don't want to lose any money.
 

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WamboJambo

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@SirRobyn0

Just realized I didn't get exactly what you asked for.

If you meant literally edge of carrier bearing (bracket around bearing?) to weld on transmission output yoke it comes out to more like 24-5/8".
 

SirRobyn0

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@SirRobyn0

Just realized I didn't get exactly what you asked for.

If you meant literally edge of carrier bearing (bracket around bearing?) to weld on transmission output yoke it comes out to more like 24-5/8".
Frankly it doesn't matter exactly how you measure it as long as I measure my existing driveline in the same way to see if they are the same or very close. So your measurements are all good. Mine is still on my truck so at some point tomorrow I'll measure it and let you know if what you have will work for me. Thanks.
 

SirRobyn0

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@WamboJambo ok here is what I have. I can't use the front portion as it is too long. My 700R4 measures about 20 1/2 inches from carrier flange to weld. The back portion I might be able to use. My truck currently have a SF rear end, but I'm looking to go to a full float and I've heard that there is some minor drive line length differences. I get about 32 1/2" for the rear shaft, and yours is 33" I have heard that's about the difference. So. I assume you'd like to sell both halfs together and that's fine, even though I'd only be able to use the back half. Let me know how much you want for it and we'll go from there.
 

WamboJambo

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@SirRobyn0 I'd be happy to only send you the back half if you're not using the front; I'm just trying to get rid of this, but you may end up saving on shipping if I only send half. I'll need to get some quotes regarding how much it'll cost to ship this to you, but as I said before I'm not looking for any money for it other than covering the cost of shipping; if it's going to another GMSB member it's well worth it to me.

Also you mentioning looking to go to a full float - that just made me realize something that may concern you, and that's that when I swapped, I discovered this driveshaft is considerably smaller in diameter than the one I replaced it with. I pulled my driveshaft from a long bed C20 (presumably semi-float 14 bolt) and mine came from a long bed C10 (12 bolt), which is why this one uses 1310 u-joints like I mentioned in the initial post. The driveshaft I replaced it with uses 1350s. So heads up, if you're going full float you either may not want this driveshaft since it'll be narrower, or you'll need to pick up a 1310/1350 u-joint like I got for the rear of the driveshaft to the diff pinion yoke.
 

SirRobyn0

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Oh ok I missed the part about not wanting anything other than shipping.

Ok I didn't even think of the diameter. I may have just wasted your time. I'm not opposed to running a conversion joint but since my truck is a C20 not sure I'd really want to go with a smaller shaft and not sure it would mate to the front shaft. I kind of made a bad assumption there. Let me think on it a little. I've managed to set aside the better part of tomorrow to do some work on the square and I'll look at the differences in the shafts and get back to you. Sorry about that.
 

WamboJambo

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Ok I didn't even think of the diameter. I may have just wasted your time. I'm not opposed to running a conversion joint but since my truck is a C20 not sure I'd really want to go with a smaller shaft and not sure it would mate to the front shaft.

That's absolutely no problem, honestly I should've outlined that in the listing and it just completely slipped my mind! I'd also be happy to measure the diameter of the driveshaft (or even compare it to the one currently on my truck from the C20), all I know is that they're pretty clearly different. I fear what you may actually need is the back half of the driveshaft currently on my truck lol. Just let me know what you end up finding out and I can check that against what I have
 

16927

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If the front yoke that fits in the three speed manual transmission is still available I can use that!
 

16927

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Still need the yoke that fits the three speed manual transmission if available.... let me know
 

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