1986 K1500 Fuel system

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BJedi76

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Nov 7, 2019
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Location
Soldotna, Alaska
First Name
B.J.
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 SWB
Engine Size
305”
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1986 GMC 4X4 sierra classic 1500

To make a long story short, I ended up with a Frankenstein w/mismatched parts from all sorts of squarebodies.

I am trying to rebuild it, but I I am having trouble deciphering what actual parts I am supposed to be acquiring.

for example; I am currently rebuilding the fuel system. I only have the driver side 16 gallon tank. Not only is there NOT a passenger side tank, but there isn’t even a gas door on that side.

I have: a newly rebuilt M4MC w/Electric choke conversion, new (pump to carb) hard line, & a new (3 line) mechanical fuel pump.

I still need to replace the fuel line going back to the tank and the “tank pick up float assembly”, but I am unsure as to which assembly I should have. I have found;1, 2, and 3 line pick up float assemblies. I simply want the minimum that will work.

Also, We do not have DEQ inspections here in Alaska, so I was wondering if the carbon vapor fuel canister can be bypassed or if it’s necessary.

thank you in advance for any educated advice.
 

BJedi76

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Posts
152
Reaction score
19
Location
Soldotna, Alaska
First Name
B.J.
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
GMC Sierra Classic 1500 4x4 SWB
Engine Size
305”
FYI...305” engine w/700r4 trans.

I have used several sources for parts: AutoZone, O’Reillys, LMC, Carquest, & Napa.

everybody seems to have a little different stuff and I was wondering if anybody could tell me alternate resources for quality parts, or whether that’s it.

LMC can get ridiculously expensive and they have stuff called “retrofit” parts that are ungodly expensive.

Opinions..?
 
Last edited:

75gmck25

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Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
An ‘86 probably ha a 3 port sending unit (feed, return and vent) and a 3 port fuel pump (feed in from tank, line to carburetor, return line to tank.

It might take a little more time to fix, but I strongly suggest using the stock setup. You always need to vent the tank, and using the vapor canister keeps fuel vapor out of the cab (as an alternative to a vented gas cap). You want the fuel pump with the return line because it keeps fuel cooler and prevents vapor lock. If all the metal lines are still on the chassis, you just need the short rubber lines to make the connections.

An additional suggestion for rubber fuel lines is to use the SAE j30r7 (low pressure) or SAE j30r9 (high pressure ) EFI rubber rubber lines, since it holds up better with fuel that has ethanol. You will have to drop the tank to replace the sending unit and lines, and you only want to do it once. It’s expensive rubber line at the parts store, but a little cheaper if you buy online.

Bruce
 

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