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1985 C20 Silverado build.

Discussion in '2wd Pick-Ups C/R 20 2500 C/R 30 3500' started by 1low4x4, Feb 16, 2011.

  1. 1low4x4

    1low4x4 Full Access Member

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    First Name:
    Nick
    Truck Year:
    1984
    Truck Model:
    K10
    Engine Size:
    5.7
    thanks guys, i fix the starter issue, fix the fuel line issue, then had a fuel pump issue, and fix that. Then on the way to work the other day I notice my lights were very damn and got worse as I drove along. Eventually I turn the truck around and just as I made it back into town I guess I lost so much battery power that I lost power to my transmission control unit. The truck went into limp mode and I had to drive 5 miles and second gear. So after I want to eat out the Taiwanese alternator yet again and only 4 months, it's back up and running. I let the battery sit on the charger all night, and figured since it's been a few years since I've done a tune up, I figured I'd buy some nice stuff for it instead of that house brand shit.the AC Delco spark plugs are only a year old, put in when I did the Vortec head swap. Well its been two years since I did the swap, but only a year since I've been running those new plugs. A Street fire plugs were kind of a pain in the ass and that I didn't realize that you had to make up the ends yourself, that took a while, but the rotor cap coil and wires seem to work great together.I am officially through buying house brand shit for any of my vehicles. Belt, alternators starters compressors anything. I will now be officially buying the highest priced shit they sell.does anybody have good recommendations on starters and alternators? A local guy said he can rebuild my GM starter and alternator for $100 together. My uncle has a Peterbilt and he rebuilt that same starter, and it's been working flawless for over 250,000 miles he said. Or should I buy new GM? Can you even buy a new GM stuff for these old trucks?

    it seems under wide open throttle I have a sputtering issue but its only intermittent, sometimes when my truck shift it will sputter and back fire but catches itself. Runs like a scalded Ape. I think its due to the carburetor more than anything.

    forgive me if anything in this post was misspelled. I'm voice texting lol
     
  2. Mr Clean

    Mr Clean Full Access Member

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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
    1982
    Truck Model:
    K10 Extra Cab w/ Proper SWB, & 82 2WD Blazer
    Engine Size:
    454 BBC, & 383 Stroker
    Nick if you have someone that can rebuild your starter and alt. that's what I would do. That way you know the guy, if anything should go wrong. The sputtering is probably your carb, did it sputter before your tune up?
     
  3. Don5

    Don5 Full Access Member

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    First Name:
    Don
    Truck Year:
    1979
    Truck Model:
    k15
    Engine Size:
    350
    ^+1 on what he says. I wouldn't bother going to the store if you have this guy on speed dial.:)
     
  4. foamypirate

    foamypirate Full Access Member

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    Location:
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    First Name:
    Jake (Mr. Wilson)
    Truck Year:
    1988
    Truck Model:
    R20
    Engine Size:
    6.0L LQ9 - NV4500
    x3.

    I bought a brand new ACDelco starter, and while it's been great, it WAS made in China...

    May was well help someone local out and get a quality job done while saving some money.
     
  5. Stewzer55

    Stewzer55 Full Access Member

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    Location:
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    First Name:
    Stew
    Truck Year:
    1988
    Truck Model:
    R30
    Engine Size:
    350 TBI
    AC Delco is NOT Delco-Remy. Try Delphi if you want a new one. I'd get the original one rebuilt or a high torque unit.
     
  6. foamypirate

    foamypirate Full Access Member

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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
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    Truck Model:
    R20
    Engine Size:
    6.0L LQ9 - NV4500
    Not sure where I ever said it was? :shrug:
     
  7. Stewzer55

    Stewzer55 Full Access Member

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    Truck Model:
    R30
    Engine Size:
    350 TBI
    I didn't mean to be harsh Foamy :sorry: I'm all for rebuilding the original DR starter or replacing it with a quality high torque unit. No doubt that rebuilding will be cheaper in the long run and will be a better starter due to the high quality core.
     
  8. Old77

    Old77 Super Moderator Staff Member

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    First Name:
    Jacob
    Truck Year:
    1977/1991
    Truck Model:
    C10 longbed/R3500 Dually
    Engine Size:
    350/454
  9. foamypirate

    foamypirate Full Access Member

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    Truck Year:
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    Truck Model:
    R20
    Engine Size:
    6.0L LQ9 - NV4500
    I was just confused is all, haha. No harm, no foul.
     
  10. 85HeavyChevy

    85HeavyChevy Full Access Member

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    Location:
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    First Name:
    AJ
    Truck Year:
    1985
    Truck Model:
    C20
    Engine Size:
    350
    I put E3s in my C20 back when I first got it. IMHO They work the same as any spark plug. No increase in power or noticeable change in MPG. They did make my truck idle a little smoother (compared to the old worn plugs) but that's about it:shrug:. No problems since I installed them but when it comes time for some new plugs it'll probably be AC Delcos.
     
  11. 1low4x4

    1low4x4 Full Access Member

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    Truck Year:
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    Truck Model:
    K10
    Engine Size:
    5.7
    Had some gremlins lately...truck had some sputtering issues when downshifting or at wide open throttle. Ran out of gas in the right tank, so hit the left tank and all of a sudden its not sputtering anymore. Stopped shortly after and filled both tanks up with plus grade gasoline, and got rid of that issue altogether. Then noticed later after I had installed the new cap coil rotor and plug wires obviously, the truck would idle way down when I brake at stop lights. Turns out I knocked a vacuum hose loose. So I had a big leak. Fixed that. I had lost the power cord for my hand held control for vez TCU transmission controller. So I ordered another one and received it today. Plugged it in and for some reason I'm not getting an RPM reading on the handheld. My old school tack is still working, and those wires are crimped together, so I assume either the rpm module that came with the controller is bad or the handheld is messed up. Didn't seem to be affecting the performance of the truck at all.

    I just had all the seats on the boat recovered, and since its almost both Cesar and I have to fix the coolant leak on the truck too. Its leaking from the back of the motor off the bell housing. I can only assume it's the intAke Seal. hopefully I'll have the money to do some other things cosmetically when I pull the intake off. I'd like to replace the old ribbed style TBI valve covers that I put on when I did the Vortec heads swap with something better looking. Also would like to replace the thermostat housing, put a fresh coat of black on the Bracketry and replace the big breather with something smaller and prettier. overall the truck is running like a f****** beast, I cannot complain one bit.
     
  12. 1low4x4

    1low4x4 Full Access Member

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    Put the steelies back on. the truck rides so much smoother. These tires are taller, the other tires on the other wheels were a shorter harder tire, road like shit. But these are 235 - 85which is the original tire size for the truck.plus I think since they are taller they fill out the wheel well better. Anyways I have a shitty pic that I took on my shitty phone, does it no justice. This truck is super clean, and I'm really digging the stock wheels and caps with the new paint job.

    2015-03-14_20.31.22_zpsx6pzxllr.gif
     
  13. Old77

    Old77 Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Truck Year:
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    Truck Model:
    C10 longbed/R3500 Dually
    Engine Size:
    350/454
    Have always loved that look :drool:
     
  14. 1low4x4

    1low4x4 Full Access Member

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    f03159d2-1e66-40c1-b2ec-66ee538bbca6_zpss8r8ijtq.gif
     
  15. mistaake

    mistaake Full Access Member

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    First Name:
    Michael
    Truck Year:
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    Truck Model:
    Crown Vic
    Engine Size:
    4.6
    Beautiful truck, and I enjoyed reading the whole thread.
     

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