1983 SILVERADO CRUISE CONTROL ISSUE

Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by 80sHottrodder, Sep 11, 2018.

  1. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    My 83 c10 cruise control has a new servo, brake switches, no vaccum leaks detected. I checked the switch on the column and that still works. The issue im having is the CC works fine for about 15 minutes when I first drive the truck then it disengages. Would that be a bad controller module? Any input appriciated
     
  2. Charlie

    Charlie Full Access Member

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    :welcome:
     
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  3. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

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    Do you have A/C? Does it act weird when the cruise disengages? Reason I ask is because the little vacuum check valves are so crappy, they can get or will already have holes in them. I had to get three before I got a good one. The bad ones will whistle with a descending pitch when you shut the truck off.
     
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  4. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    It is an A/C truck but its currently disconnected. I got a new check valve but it does whistle when i shut the truck off. It doesnt act strange,just shuts off and slows down.
     
  5. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    The check valve that was on there originally didnt whistle, but when i shook it i didnt hear it make a rattling noise. Like it was stuck.
     
  6. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

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    Okay, yeah. It’s not supposed to whistle. I’d keep exchanging them from wherever you bought it till you get one that doesn’t. It might not fix your issue, but it’s a simpler place to start.
     
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  7. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    Ill try that. I got a custom cruise 3 diagnostic tool on Ebay. Ill hook that up if the check valve doesnt fix it. Its supposed to be able to detect a short in the wiring, or faults in any of the cruise components.
     
  8. 1987 GMC Jimmy

    1987 GMC Jimmy Full Access Member

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    Wait, yours is a Custom Cruise III? I had thought ‘83 was the last year for Cruise Master, but it looks like that’s not the case. So were you thinking the VSS buffer was bad on it or maybe a short? If so, that question makes more sense. I don’t know of a diagnostic for that, but you might find one online. A ton of cars and trucks had that little green guy. The system in my car didn’t work when I first got it, and it ended up being a bad stalk. This is the diagnostic chart I used.

    Also, I’d be interested in seeing what this diagnostic tool looks like.

    238E38A3-AE96-4496-8EDF-1FCB83753AC5.gif
     
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  9. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    That's the tester. [​IMG][​IMG]

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  10. chengny

    chengny Full Access Member

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    The problem, as described above, wouldn't appear to be caused by - or related to - loss of vacuum to the servo. The fact is that the system initially seems to operate as designed, but - after a period of time - it suddenly and completely shuts down. The throttle snaps to the fully closed position and the truck slows way down. That scenario would tend to indicate a loss of input to either the control module or servo.



    The servo's vent solenoid is designed to be de-energized - which allows the vent valve to shift to the default (fully open) position if:

    1. The brake (or clutch pedal) is depressed,

    2. The system is turned off at the control switch,

    3. An open circuit exists in the system feed circuit or,

    4. There is a loss of input from the servo position sensor.

    1&2 would be considered normal operation, while 3&4 are just two of many possible electrically related reasons for a system shutdown.



    On the other hand, a loss of vacuum supply to the servo would generally result in a gradual reduction of throttle opening and road speed.


    After a system shutdown, what actions do you have to take in order to get the CC system to re-engage? That might give you a clue as to what the problem is.


    Unfortunately, this sounds like you have an intermittent electrical issue. The thing about intermittent wiring issues is that, in order to locate the problem, you have to be in the "right place at the right time". This is especially difficult with cruise control circuits because the system won't activate unless road speed is at least 25 MPH.

    Do a thorough inspection of all wiring and make sure all terminal connections are tight/clean.

    You might want to start at the fuse block. The power supply for the cruise system will be a PNK/BLK wire plugged into one of the IGN switched sockets on the far left bank:

    3rd 1980 StyleFuseBlock-Front3.jpg

    The wiring diagram for 1983 C/K trucks with Cruise Master III:

    cc 83.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
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  11. chengny

    chengny Full Access Member

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    The Cruise Master system, used on all 1980---82 models and 1983 Caballero and El Camino, and the Custom Cruise III system, used on 1983---87 models except 1983 Caballero and El Camino,


    Quick Checker Test Procedure is below. Keep in mind however that the diagnostic tool will only identify a problem while it actually exists:
    chkr.JPG
    1.JPG
    2.jpg
    3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
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  12. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    After the CC disengages the only thing it does is accelerate if I hold the resume switch, and that's only if I give it part throttle,but it doesn't hold it's speed. It's just odd if I let the truck sit and drive it again, it goes back to working right temporarily. If I'm not mistaken, I believe the controller box holds the memory for the resume accel feature.

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  13. chengny

    chengny Full Access Member

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    If I'm not mistaken, I believe the controller box holds the memory for the resume accel feature

    Correct - and bumping the slider to R/A for one second or less will return the system to the last set speed. More than one second will dump the stored memory and accelerate to a new set speed:

    1.JPG
    2.jpg

    After the CC disengages the only thing it does is accelerate if I hold the resume switch

    If you can get it to reactivate by only moving the slider to the R/A position, it sounds like your brake switch is opening and dropping the system. I think that the only way the system can be disengaged - and then brought back on line by just moving to R/A - is by tapping the brakes. If the system is de-energized by either the ignition switch or moving the slider to OFF, the last speed set memory is dumped.

    If that is true, then it would kind of eliminate the power supply and control switch wiring.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
  14. 80sHottrodder

    80sHottrodder Junior Member

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    The strange thing is though is I have to give it throttle at the same time for it to resume acceleration after it first disengages. Here's a video of it working then shutting off. First drive of the day.

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  15. Chugalugg

    Chugalugg Member

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    just a thought but my 84 silverado cruise had a led light that is connected behind the speedometer when the speedo turns, it breaks the light signal on the I'm thinking a chrome sorta wheel that spins that makes it read and hold the speed where you set it. I cannot think what this part is called maybe some others on this site do. Mine was bad i replaced the switch, buffer and module and stiil never worked till I found out about the light in the back of the speedo.
     
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