Discussion in '2wd Pick-Ups C/R 20 2500 C/R 30 3500' started by mistaake, Apr 14, 2015.
Sounds like a good plan.
Ya your on the right track now saving for a new engine.
I do know that you can and I have added ATF to diesel fuel to clean and lubricate mechanical injection systems like the one on the old 6.2 but I would be weary of using that in a new electronic fuel injection system.
You can also add Diesel to your oil and run it for 60 sec and then let it sit and then change your oil.
I have poured water down the carburetor to clean carbon from the heads and valves. But I do not think ATF would have the same effect as water just simply because it will burn.
Also the water only works on fully warmed engines. Its the steam effect when the water hits the hot engine components.
But like HR says just run it and then swap in your new crate engine when it arrives
So I should try the 1/3 bottle ATF in the oil, 1/3 in the gas, and 1/3 down the carb?
$100 later, I've got a toolbox!
Thanks... the drivers side handle is actually broken but I'll fix it at some point and it was worth saving $200 to have to walk to the passenger side sometimes. And yes, it does still lock
Now I have a working turn signal.
Are the tail-lights supposed to be on when the headlights are on? I know that is a dumb question.
ok... now the headlights work and the turn signals work. but if i turn the headlight knob i dont get any dash lights or cab light but i do get more turn signal
wtf??! what could cause this?
Yep, first step in the headlight switch should be your rear tail lights, front park lights and all your side tag marker lights. 2nd step should be all your lights including headlights.
Makes sense. I just wasn't sure if that has normal.
So, I'm pretty happy. Fuel economy seems to be improving every time:
Tank 1: 5.0MPG
Tank 2: 6.7MPG
Tank 3: 8.8MPG
Almost to a Prius like level here let's go for 10MPG next tank. Then I'll get a rebuilt carb and hope to get 15.
According to a shop that did a general safety inspection of the truck I need a new "center driveshaft bearing support mount" what problems could this being damaged cause? I'll crawl underneath tomorrow and check it out in person.
Oh, also today I cleaned the outside of the truck. What I thought was just some moss was actually mold. I used clorox and scrubbed most of it off. My truck is actually white now Just have to clean the tailgate, hood, and front bumpers, as well as clean up some spots I missed on the sides of the truck.
You don't have any money to fix your truck with, yet bought a broken toolbox for $100.
You won't burn a quart of dex or run 20% in your crankcase but you cleaned your paint with BLEACH?
This is far to entertaining to stop reading now! Oh. You're 20 years old... That makes a LOT more sense.
Did you dilute the bleach at all or run it straight? I need to know.
PICS OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN.
Get a 9/16 wrench and try to LIGHTLY tighten the 4 carb mounting bolts.criss cross. Secure a #2 flathead and LIGHTLY tighten the air horn from the center out. I think there is 11 screws? A 1" wrench + a 5/8 will change your fuel filter. They cost 2 or 3 bucks. There. You just rebuilt your q-jet. Wait. Might want to check with the other people on Bob's website first...he's not the quadrajet guy!
Lemme guess, no tiny bubbles anymore? What happened to them ?
Sweet. Now we don't have to buy all that black pepper to fix the head gaskets...
I gotta go.
it's not drinking coolant and its not ending up in the oil so I'm ignoring that issue for the time being. I can't see the bubbles when the rad cap is on there so I'm not gonna worry about them.
I used about 1/10 Clorox and 9/10 water mixed in a spray bottle, then after scrubbing I used a hose to rinse it.
Yeah ol boy, black pepper!
Separate names with a comma.