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1980 K-30 3+3.

Discussion in 'Introduction' started by sirweesarunch, Jun 13, 2020.

  1. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Location:
    Oceanside
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    The upper left windshield area , cut out the rust and sanded the area. The braze is factory


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  2. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Location:
    Oceanside
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    The patch for the hole is tack welded to that rod so i could fit it in the hole and weld it with the other hand.


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  3. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Oceanside
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    Welded and grinded. I forgot to take a foto of the larger patch but it was done in the same manner. BTW you cannot weld around braze so it needs removal first. Above each door I had to slice open and patch in as well. That damage is from leaky drip edges. Thats why i sikaflexed those areas to keep water out. There is a pilar between both doors , where it attaches to the roof is a seam with seam filler in it. I dug all that BS out and welded it all shut. I hope that doesnt cause a problem


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  4. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Location:
    Oceanside
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    Epoxy filler


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  5. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Joined:
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    Location:
    Oceanside
    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    Finished product.


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  6. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    This is the starter for the 6.2 diesel. They say it needs to be supported at this end or the torque can break the mounting points. The factory has a little flange that bolts to that 1/4 threaded rod. Im going a different route. I rolled this 3/8” x 1/4” ring that will go around the starter body.


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  7. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    First Name:
    John
    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    Here’s the ring and part of the support flange


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  8. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    Here is a foto of everything clamped in place for tack welding.


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  9. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    [​IMG]
    All welded up and supporting the starter nicely


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  10. crpntr78

    crpntr78 Full Access Member

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    Truck Year:
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    Truck Model:
    K10
    Engine Size:
    350
    Man, you have some skills. Can't even tell those body patches are lap jointed!!! Great job!!
     
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  11. Grit dog

    Grit dog Full Access Member

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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
    1986
    Truck Model:
    K20
    Engine Size:
    454

    First, let me say, your work to date on this truck is nothing short of professional!
    After seeing this, it caught my eye as I have similar repairs to do on my A pillars. (Just none of the other rust work you did....thank god)
    Tacking the patch piece to a "handle" is a great idea. I was/am contemplating magnets but can see a couple spots where having a handle on the piece would be the best bet.
    Couple questions, I was planning on shooting the spray rust reformer stuff with the long flex tube all inside the A pillars and across the front of the roof before patching it up. I know I'll lose some where I weld, but you think the paint on the back side will mess up tacking the pieces in place?
    Also, why epoxy filler on the A pillars specifically? I know epoxy is "better" for large patches, but?
    And last, did you fill and smooth all the pitting on the standing seam around the windshield or just clean and paint it?

    Can't wait to see the finished product!
     
  12. Grit dog

    Grit dog Full Access Member

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    Appreciate the tips on Sikaflex on the drip edges too.
     
  13. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    Thanks Chief. Block sanding and epoxy primer is the trick


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  14. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    Yeah. It seals like a mofo but its messy as all hell. I cut the tube and poke a hole , squeeze a little out the nozzle and before you know it its on the ground , on both forearms , down the side of the truck on your shirt . I believe if I took the screws out it wouldnt budge. Its solvent based so the best way to approach it is have a rag laying where your working on the drip rails. Screw it all down and let it ooze out all over. Then get some blue paper towels and rip off squares clean up what you can in one swipe then deposit it on the rag. It’ll take one or two whole paper towels to get most off. Dont double dip with each square , it’ll smear everywhere. One swipe and stick it to the rag. Then after most is gone dampen another sheet with xylol and clean around the rail real nice. Done.


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  15. sirweesarunch

    sirweesarunch Full Access Member

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    Location:
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    First Name:
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    Truck Year:
    1980
    Truck Model:
    K30
    Engine Size:
    454
    Thanks chief for the kind words. I sprayed in there with weld through primer Upol brand. Paint inside wont interfere with welding. I have cab lights so i stuck the nozzle in through there with the rustoleum hard hat. Hard hat is not serious paint but inside there its sufficient. I i wire brush the pitting with a knotted wheel and sanded the pitting as much as possible without loosing metal. Wash it out with laquer thinner and then sprayed Axalta/ Dupont corlar over the pitting. I let it cure good then blocked it , primed once more , sanded and shot finish. You cannot see any pits now. This is an outdoor paint job. I have blemishes , i will not buff it out. This truck will be going through the woods and I do not want it to be overly restored. I dont want to cringe when tree branches squeal over the roof. BTW magnets are a good option on most areas but that compound curved area wouldnt sit that tiny patch just right thus the handle. I was going to use lead in this area but was too cheap and lazy to order a kit from eastwood .. I experimented instead with PC 11. And then used upol bondo over that. I only used the epoxy here as a test. Hopefully it doesnt crack out.


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