1976 C10 ABS Upgrade

[Abdiel]

Hey Guys happy to be new in this forum. I’m building a 1976 Chevy C10 with a 292 I6 engine. It’s a Father/Son project. I have a few questions and hope I can find some help here.

I’m trying to upgrade the brake system on my pickup. I made a research and couldn’t find any ABS kit or something like that online. Anyway I want to make the upgrade so as far as I know here are the facts.

From 73-87 same chassis, same suspension. 88-98 different chassis and suspension. In 1988 wasn’t equipped with the ABS system but later they do. So I’m thinking on buying a Heidts crossmember for the 1973-87 C10 and buy from ridetech the upper and lower control arms with airbags, get a set of 88 knuckles and install the 98 wheel bearing with the ABS sensor. It could be kinda positive cause there’s a wider variety of good brakes available too.. Like Wilwood or something like that with 4 piston caliper in the front. I’d have to install the front end from the 98’ and install the ABS Module. So it would be like 73-87 Crossmember with 88-98 control arms, knuckles, rotors, calipers, etc...

Another option, but i don’t know if that’s possible is replace the whole chassis use a 88’ chassis with my 76’ body..

Is anyone familiar with this, am I right or wrong? Am I crazy for thinking about this? Lol.. Thank you very much for reading this, I’m ready to learn from you guys.

 

[Abdiel]

Making an update I find out that the 1991 Suburban knuckle can fit into my 1976 C10 Control arms, so the idea of the ABS upgrade is not that crazy after all. The 91’ suburban is equipped with abs system, its the same frame as the 1976 C10. Tomorrow I’ll go to autozone to compare side by side the hub assembly of the 1991 Suburban vs the 1998 Silverado in order to use a newer ABS System.

Looking at the diagrams, I’ll need the hub assembly with the ABS sensor, the ABS Module and there’s another module that work together. I’ll take some pictures and post them tomorrow.

 

[Abdiel]

Hi again..

Well today I went to a junkyard, took a long walk around various GM vehicles. Found one that got my attention. I think is a 96’ Silverado has 6 lug hub assemblies, has the ABS sensor and the module. I asked the seller to remove the part and I’ll pick it up tomorrow morning. I’m gonna measure the height and the ball joints, to see if they fit. In case everything’s okay I’ll move on and buy the new set of bearings. I’d use only the knuckles.

I need to take a look to see if that pickup is equipped with Airbags, if it does it’d be a bit of a problem because the ABS module and the Airbag module work together as far as I know.

I’ll keep this updated..

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[AuroraGirl]

my dad has a 96 silverado but it has rear only antilock just keeps rear from kicking out and skidding i think

But if you wanted parts or pieces of that system, his dont work and he hates all technology and wouldnt want a single bit of the ABS or SRS system so if you needed pics or stuff he would prob let them go and thank you.

Not saying i think its smart, but knowing him he wouldnt be sad. lol.

but i could hook up my tech 2 to his truck and tell you if the module is connected

 

[Bennyt]

In my opinion, unless you drive in rain everyday, I'd skip the ABS. Even if I drove in the rain, id skip it as too much work to get it programmed correctly for your application and little benefit. They are designed for the average driver that doesn't know how to pump and modulate brakes. Get more benefit by attending a skid school and some track time.

You can more powerful brakes and better handling with the below list.

CPP Upper and Lower control arms and their modular dropped spindles. $1000 w/ shocks is what I think I paid last year.
Good rotors and pads $150
Wilwood 4 piston calipers $275
Rebuild the rear drums with quality parts, even better if you can find the larger drums off a heavy half. $100

Add sway bars, hydroboost, frame stiffeners/ braces if budget allows.

 

[Abdiel]

my dad has a 96 silverado but it has rear only antilock just keeps rear from kicking out and skidding i think

But if you wanted parts or pieces of that system, his dont work and he hates all technology and wouldnt want a single bit of the ABS or SRS system so if you needed pics or stuff he would prob let them go and thank you.

Not saying i think its smart, but knowing him he wouldnt be sad. lol.

but i could hook up my tech 2 to his truck and tell you if the module is connected

I don’t know what to say about the first part lol, but I’d need to check the diagrams and see if its connected or not to the SRS module.

Is your dad’s ABS system working properly?

 

[Abdiel]

In my opinion, unless you drive in rain everyday, I'd skip the ABS. Even if I drove in the rain, id skip it as too much work to get it programmed correctly for your application and little benefit. They are designed for the average driver that doesn't know how to pump and modulate brakes. Get more benefit by attending a skid school and some track time.

You can more powerful brakes and better handling with the below list.

CPP Upper and Lower control arms and their modular dropped spindles. $1000 w/ shocks is what I think I paid last year.
Good rotors and pads $150
Wilwood 4 piston calipers $275
Rebuild the rear drums with quality parts, even better if you can find the larger drums off a heavy half. $100

Add sway bars, hydroboost, frame stiffeners/ braces if budget allows.

The reason why I want that system is because if for any reason I make a hard stop and need to avoid an obstacle without the ABS the wheels are gonna lock up and slide in straight line even if I turn the wheel. Otherwise if I have the ABS system should obey the steering wheel and slide left or right.

About the parts you’re telling me that’s kinda the idea I had. Right now I have this idea in my mind, and please you or anyone else feel free to correct me but here it is.

Heidt’s 1973-87 crossmember with power rack and pinion.
Ridetech complete suspension system with adjustable airbags
Wilwood front and rear disc brake kit.
CPP front and rear sway bars.

About the hydroboost brakes how does it work? I thought it was just for cars with engines that produce low vacuum.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I don’t know what to say about the first part lol, but I’d need to check the diagrams and see if its connected or not to the SRS module.

Is your dad’s ABS system working properly?

IIRC his codes in the past indicated a wheel speed sensor or something serviceable not working and he has not fixed it because he doesnt care, but i could check again sometime

 

[AuroraGirl]

The reason why I want that system is because if for any reason I make a hard stop and need to avoid an obstacle without the ABS the wheels are gonna lock up and slide in straight line even if I turn the wheel. Otherwise if I have the ABS system should obey the steering wheel and slide left or right.

About the parts you’re telling me that’s kinda the idea I had. Right now I have this idea in my mind, and please you or anyone else feel free to correct me but here it is.

Heidt’s 1973-87 crossmember with power rack and pinion.
Ridetech complete suspension system with adjustable airbags
Wilwood front and rear disc brake kit.
CPP front and rear sway bars.

About the hydroboost brakes how does it work? I thought it was just for cars with engines that produce low vacuum.

those trucks yes, but in applications of a lot of braking even a good engine can not keep up with vaccuum assist needs, which would happen under a theoretical high pumping situation of a panic stop without ABS. not saying its insufficient, but hydroboost is gonna give you more pressure, consistently, and by a more tried and true way(hydraulic pressure which is available as long as your engine is running, and not whether or not your throttle plate was closed enough for time to allow a reservoir to pulled to vacuum) so although not required, a more consistent experience in the pedal feel and pressure applied is gonna make properly braking an easier task.

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story time:
think of it like this, try operating AC controls in an old car with throttle wide open. this trick "works" on my f150 LOL, cant switch to max AC unless i come off the throttle, or an antique car with wipers. need a quick wipe? feather the pedal, sonny
I, too, wouldnt add ABS to a truck but would DEFINITELY put brakes and snow tires(if constant rain was a trait here, i would worry about summer tires) on before attempting to do so. If the truck, like my f150, had RABS, then i would maintain it as long as it worked. Which it does, it keeps the rear from thrusting into a skid by unevenly unlocking my rear brakes causing it to skid. Worked is a operative word, we will see after i do the rear drums

 

[Turbo4whl]

In my opinion, unless you drive in rain everyday, I'd skip the ABS. Even if I drove in the rain, id skip it as too much work to get it programmed correctly for your application and little benefit. They are designed for the average driver that doesn't know how to pump and modulate brakes. Get more benefit by attending a skid school and some track time.

You can more powerful brakes and better handling with the below list.

CPP Upper and Lower control arms and their modular dropped spindles. $1000 w/ shocks is what I think I paid last year.
Good rotors and pads $150
Wilwood 4 piston calipers $275
Rebuild the rear drums with quality parts, even better if you can find the larger drums off a heavy half. $100

Add sway bars, hydroboost, frame stiffeners/ braces if budget allows.

Ben, I wish I could like this twice!

Abdiel @Abdiel , if you want a safer truck, buy a newer model. Even if you went to all the trouble of adding ABS you are still driving a truck with an exploding fuel tank and seat belts that may, and have, released on impact.

Not to even mention, newer trucks are designed to crumble on impact to protect the occupants along with several air bags.

Your 1976 will not fit the '88 up frame without, a whole lot of trouble.