14B FF Inner Bearing C Clip Plier Recomendation

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CORVAIRWILD

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I just bought a 1993 regular cab 2 wheel drive 6.5 turbo diesel with a 14-bolt full floater.
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Because the truck has been sitting for many years the left rear brake was seized to the shoes, so I took it apart and I decided once I had the axles removed I might as well check the bearings. The inner bearing is held in place in the drum-hub with a large strong c-clip, and the only c clip plier I had isn't really up to the task, as it interferes with the hub. So I looked on eBay and Amazon, but the reviews are mixed. Some of the double jointed ones reviewed said they're not strong enough or the tips bend.
What should I use to remove the deep-set inner c-clip?
 

nvrenuf

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I guess a ‘93 axle could be different but on most 14 bolts it’s the outer race that’s held by a lock ring. I’ve always used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove them, some of the longer pliers with 45* tips might work better.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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There's two lock Rings, one holds the Locking nut and that's a piece of cake with a small screwdriver. But to remove the outer bearing from The Hub, you got this giant deep-set c-clip, and I don't think needle-nose will work, the tips need to be square when the jobs are open
 

nvrenuf

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That's the ring I was talking about. You referred to the inner race, as i stated it's the outer. Nothing to do with the lock nut set holding the hub onto the spindle.
 

nvrenuf

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On my old 14 bolt ('76) and my D70HD (same set up) the lock ring is square spring steel with bent ends to grab and squeeze. No eyes like a snap ring.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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Yup, that's exactly what I'm up against... Suggestion?
 

nvrenuf

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I've always used a regular pair of needle nose pliers but ideally a long pair with 45 degree tips would probably be perfect.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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I was able to remove the c-clip and the bearing was fine, but it took a long nose pair of cheap Chinese pliers and I can't believe they didn't break off, and two good USA heavy duty screwdrivers, and a Japanese lug wrench that I bent the tip over 90° with an oxy acetylene torch. That's C clip is the most serious C clip I've ever encountered in my life, much like the C clips in an automatic transmission.. And then after, you have to tap the bearing cone into the center of the
hub with a thin long 3/16 punch. Once you've moved the cone about a half an inch, you can twist the bearing 90° to inspect it. You don't have to remove the cone all the way. My bearing looked good, I cleaned it off with brake clean, and dropped it back into the cone and tapped the cone back into place. What alot of work just to inspect a bearing. But that's what it takes
 

nvrenuf

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Once reassembled, be sure to flip the hub over and drive the race back against the lock ring. If you don't the lock nuts will lose their torque setting because as the race moves inward towards the lock ring.
 

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I thought this was a Squarebody Forum ??
 

CORVAIRWILD

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I have a variety of teeruks, the diffy is the same. Just hangin' with old friends.
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CORVAIRWILD

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6.2
And many other models and years GM's Fords and Mopars...
 

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