14 bolt ff out of a 3/4 ton into a 1/2 ton.

[Pender1]

I picked up a full float over the weekend that came out a C20 in the late 70's. I know the spring perches are the right width but I saw something about the shock mounts being different because it's a 2wd. Does anyone have experience with these that can tell me how direct the swap is?

I know I need to throw in a conversion u-joint, does anyone know offhand if there's a difference in the yoke stick-out between the two? Basically, will my driveshaft still work?

 

[Craig 85]

Make sure you have a 3/4 axle and not a 1 ton. The shock mounts are reversed. On 1/2 and 3/4 tons the right shock is in front of the axle and the left is behind. My K30 is just the opposite. I did a axle swap on my last truck a '79 K15. The hybrid U-joint is a Spicer 1310-1350 Part# 5-460X or O’Reilly’s – Precision U-joint Part# 348 (3.219 / 1.062 to 3.625 / 1.188).

My truck was already lifted by the PO. When I installed a 14 bolt SF, but I had to shorten my driveshaft as the pumpkin was much larger than the 12 bolt it replaced. You may also have to swap the parking brake cables coming out of the drums as they may not be compatible with your '86.

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[Pender1]

I was planning on doing some custom work to the parking brakes anyways, I'm swapping to a handbrake out of a Cherokee and getting rid of the foot pedal. Thanks for the info on the shocks being swapped though, I hadn't even considered that.

Unfortunately my driveshaft is from an automatic so it's got some wimpy size below a 1310. It's going to get replaced down the line, I'm just hoping I can make it work for now.

 

[Craig 85]

I just re-read my post and it's confusing. The photo I posted is how your's should look. Mine is reversed from the photo.

 

[bucket]

Supposedly the C20 shock mounts hang lower than K20 shock mounts. I never paid attention on my old K20 burbs, all that I have around here now is everything but a K20 so I don't have anything to compare.