12 Bolt Pinion Bearing Pre-Load

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TJ805

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Posts
57
Reaction score
8
Location
Ventura County
First Name
TJ
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
When I went to change the pinion seal, the pinion nut was finger tight. I planned on using my torque wrench to get an idea of where it was at, but now have to guess. Wheels are on the truck and I have no plans to remove them or the axles. I'd like to get it as close as possible for the time being. What would you do?
 

dhenderz

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Posts
188
Reaction score
222
Location
Michigan
First Name
Dennis
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
327
Let me start by saying I am by no means an expert. I assume others will chime in.

I did just finish rebuilding the GM 12-bolt in the 77K10. I did a lot of research to educate myself. So from that I would offer the following.

First, the pinion nut is supposed to be a lock nut. And it is not to be reused once removed. It must be replaced. Otherwise I expect the result will be what you found - a loose nut. So regardless of what you plan to do moving forward, I would get a new one on order.

Second, unless your 12bolt has been converted to eliminate the crush sleeve, then it has a crush sleeve. This means you will not be able to (re)achieve the pinion pre-load again without replacing the crush sleeve. And even with a new crush sleeve, achieving the right pre-load is a bit tricky - especially for us not experienced doing it every day. It is not uncommon to go thru several of them before hitting spot on and not over-torquing (ask me how I know that).

But again, I am clearly not an expert. I would be curious to read what the service manual calls for with a pinion seal replacement. Do they require the crush sleeve be replaced? Just a new lock nut?
 

TJ805

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Posts
57
Reaction score
8
Location
Ventura County
First Name
TJ
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Thanks for the info. I'm am aware of all that you said. I don't see myself replacing the crush sleeve or converting it. Just hoping for a suggestion on how to get it close. If anyone has had a similar situation, please let me know.
 

TJ805

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Posts
57
Reaction score
8
Location
Ventura County
First Name
TJ
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Let me start by saying I am by no means an expert. I assume others will chime in.

I did just finish rebuilding the GM 12-bolt in the 77K10. I did a lot of research to educate myself. So from that I would offer the following.

First, the pinion nut is supposed to be a lock nut. And it is not to be reused once removed. It must be replaced. Otherwise I expect the result will be what you found - a loose nut. So regardless of what you plan to do moving forward, I would get a new one on order.

Second, unless your 12bolt has been converted to eliminate the crush sleeve, then it has a crush sleeve. This means you will not be able to (re)achieve the pinion pre-load again without replacing the crush sleeve. And even with a new crush sleeve, achieving the right pre-load is a bit tricky - especially for us not experienced doing it every day. It is not uncommon to go thru several of them before hitting spot on and not over-torquing (ask me how I know that).

But again, I am clearly not an expert. I would be curious to read what the service manual calls for with a pinion seal replacement. Do they require the crush sleeve be replaced? Just a new lock nut?
How much slack was in your yoke after you set your crush sleeve? When I line up my marks I can pull/push the yoke in and out about 1/16". One more revolution is way too tight...
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,076
Posts
908,529
Members
33,550
Latest member
kurt54
Top