11 inch drums fix or Disk brake conversion?

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rydog

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I used the LMC drums they work just fine
LMC isn't too far down the road from me I'll check out their prices

Right now I'm just trying to figure out the clunking to figure out what else I might need to order
 

DoubleDingo

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LMC isn't too far down the road from me I'll check out their prices

Right now I'm just trying to figure out the clunking to figure out what else I might need to order
Most likely axle bearing. If you have it all apart, just replace on both sides, the axle bearings, seals, brake shoes, drums, and run it.
 

rydog

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LMC isn't too far down the road from me I'll check out their prices

Right now I'm just trying to figure out the clunking to figure out what else I might need to order
LMC truck only offers 25 dollar bearings I'm guessing they are pretty low quality?
 
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rydog

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Most likely axle bearing. If you have it all apart, just replace on both sides, the axle bearings, seals, brake shoes, drums, and run it.
Sounds like a good idea and then I guess if it is something else I can pull the drums off and get the axles out again w/o having to replace the bearings and seals again.

I think I'm just going to get it all off rock auto and get the SFK bearings.

I already went through the front and ordered a bunch of moog stuff (ball joints and tie rod ends) off Amazon. I probably over payed for brake rotors and calipers and pads at O'Reilly's looking at the prices on rock auto but too late now.

I bought Timken bearings and races for the front but what was in it looked so good I just repacked them and went with it the inner were timpken the outer were Hyatt Clarke. What did they come with?
 
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DoubleDingo

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I have no idea what brand of bearing they came with, good quality, though
 

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ali_c20

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I'm just confused about what in the differential would be causing it. The splines on the axel seem fine and the gears in the differential they go into look fine.

When I removed the bolt locking the pin so I could get to the C clips the pin just fell out and hit me the head. Shouldn't I have to drive it out?

I plan on buying the sfk bearings from rock auto. 47 bucks each compares to Napa's 100 dollars each.
Between the pinion and the ring gear is play. If it's a lot the driveshaft can rotate when you put it in gear and then is stopped by the ring gear. This makes a clunking noise for example.
There are also other possible sources for rear end noise. Search Youtube for rear end noise, lot's of good videos out there.

The pin is and held in place by the locking bolt. It comes out very easy and can fall out. I always had to hold it in place with 1 finger when reinstalling the locking bolt.

Skf bearings are good, at least here in Europe :)
 
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Fat 454

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If you want some good real world advice on 14 bolt disc conversions, read through the Billavista.com site. He has great technical advice, and trail experience.

Before deciding to swap over ( and after discovering the actual cost and work involved in doing it "right" ), you need to be clear about "why" you want the swap. - discs provide greater resistance to fading - great for trail use, mountain descents, auto cross ( in a 14 bolt ?? ! ) etc.

Discs will not however out perform OEM drums for one off stopping power ( clamping force ). This is important for emergency stops when trailering etc. So, if you are planning to tow or haul, I would recommend keeping the drums.

Yes - always replace both sides at the same time. Like tyres - you don't want to be going sideways in an emergency ...
 

adumars

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FYI- did a drum-to-disc conversion on a 14 bolt semi-float. Stops like a normal modern car now. Significant difference.
 

rydog

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Between the pinion and the ring gear is play. If it's a lot the driveshaft can rotate when you put it in gear and then is stopped by the ring gear. This makes a clunking noise for example.
There are also other possible sources for rear end noise. Search Youtube for rear end noise, lot's of good videos out there.

The pin is and held in place by the locking bolt. It comes out very easy and can fall out. I always had to hold it in place with 1 finger when reinstalling the locking bolt.

Skf bearings are good, at least here in Europe :)
Yeah I have feeling the pinion and ring gear is my clunking issue. I removed the bearings last night they don't seem bad to me but the seals were leaking. Id guess they were originals Torrington was the brand name.

How bad is it to drive on if the ring gear is worn? I'm probably lucky to put a 1000 miles a year on it. I just use it to do truck things and have an old Subaru I use for the snow/salt, and then one more car for everyday driving.

I bought an extra gasket from rock auto figuring ill probably be pulling it apart again at least the bearings seals and brakes should be good to go though. I might wait until spring to tackle the ring gears slop.

This all started to replace rear rubber line and wheel cylinders I think my line is pretty restricted the front ones sure were. It's kinda scary to go sliding down a 4 lane road in that 6k pound thing.
 

rydog

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FYI- did a drum-to-disc conversion on a 14 bolt semi-float. Stops like a normal modern car now. Significant difference.
Yeah and I sure think it's easier to work on disc brakes.

I ordered all the drum stuff from rock auto though so I'm sticking with them.

I really wish I had a 4 speed vs auto.

The guy I got it from said the 700r4 doesn't have many miles on it after a rebuild so will see how long it last.
 

rydog

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If you want some good real world advice on 14 bolt disc conversions, read through the Billavista.com site. He has great technical advice, and trail experience.

Before deciding to swap over ( and after discovering the actual cost and work involved in doing it "right" ), you need to be clear about "why" you want the swap. - discs provide greater resistance to fading - great for trail use, mountain descents, auto cross ( in a 14 bolt ?? ! ) etc.

Discs will not however out perform OEM drums for one off stopping power ( clamping force ). This is important for emergency stops when trailering etc. So, if you are planning to tow or haul, I would recommend keeping the drums.

Yes - always replace both sides at the same time. Like tyres - you don't want to be going sideways in an emergency ...

The only miles I put on it not loaded is to pick up a load so drums is it is.

I bought 2 drums for 85 bucks each off rock auto and a set of pads and wheel cylinders
 

ali_c20

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Yeah I have feeling the pinion and ring gear is my clunking issue. I removed the bearings last night they don't seem bad to me but the seals were leaking. Id guess they were originals Torrington was the brand name.

How bad is it to drive on if the ring gear is worn? I'm probably lucky to put a 1000 miles a year on it. I just use it to do truck things and have an old Subaru I use for the snow/salt, and then one more car for everyday driving.

I bought an extra gasket from rock auto figuring ill probably be pulling it apart again at least the bearings seals and brakes should be good to go though. I might wait until spring to tackle the ring gears slop.

This all started to replace rear rubber line and wheel cylinders I think my line is pretty restricted the front ones sure were. It's kinda scary to go sliding down a 4 lane road in that 6k pound thing.
I drove my K5 for years with clunking driveshafts all around.... Doing 1000 miles a year I would drive it till it's really bad or breaks.
 

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