Was going to drill out all the spot welds and replace entire skin but ended up being able to cheat and just cut out what was bad and left the pinch welds alone, since the rot wasn’t as bad as I initially thought.
Bigger areas I cut to fit patch pieces out of the donor parts. Small...
This paint on the core support is supposed to be like not quite full gloss chassis paint. Direct to rust or metal capable supposedly. I’ve used it on chassis, fender wells, even the wing windows. (I used it as a base coat and cleared over it on the window frames as idk how UV resistant it is)
As said, the “rating” could vary and you could look it up on GM Heritage center.
Here’s the 76 C20-C30 spec.
Looks like 4000lb spring rating (so about 2klb payload) and 5700 or 7500 lb rear axle capacity.
Subtract empty weight on rear axle from this numbers. Somewhere between <2k - 2.5klbs>...
Bit of advice. Rather than playing around with it, you’ll be money ahead to spend the $400 for new tanks and fuel pickups and new hoses etc.
Pop the bed off and have at it.
And you can siphon fuel out pretty easily. Even more so with the filler hoses off.
Biggest issue is the condition of the...
Aside from the question of how physically and mechanically sound a 45 year old pickup is to work it hard with a huge load, I wouldn’t want to be much, if any, over about 2500lbs loaded, ready to camp, weight….provided the truck is in good running order with good suspension.
I'd think long term application of pressure to the brake components (especially on old vehicles, if not all new brake components) would not be a good thing for the caliper or wheel cylinder seals.
Aside from having to either run brake lines into the cab or be a 2 person operation.
^ That's slick!
And my mistake when I was talking about V bands, I was thinking regular band clamps. If I have to weld 4 connections, it may as well just be to the new mufflers. And even then, the H-pipe would prevent taking it out in pieces.
With the exhaust system already being several...
Sounds like she helped you make the best decision. Don’t take this the wrong way, but you don’t need a 300k mile pile of junk with a bad transmission to add to your collection.
And who cares what other peoples bad decisions are? Your boss should have drug the pos off his property and cleaned...
How much you spend is related to how much you do.
For a work truck that interior looks pretty nice IMO. If I wasn’t going all in and restoring the truck I’d keep the original interior.
But just maintenance and repair parts, I feel like $3-4k in parts will replace about anything you could want...
The front left side of the bed is smashed in.
And maybe it’s just the combination of the door sagging and the bottom of the bed bent up, but looking at the trim line from cab to bed, it also looks a little lower on the cab side which is indicative usually of a mount being rusty or since this...
Even more great ideas!
You know, I typically never want to try to remove exhaust parts/bolts/clamps etc due to rust and the certain cussing and difficulty of it. So my brain just automatically skipped past that option, lol.
But this is 10 bolts total. Non rusted and no clamps. Unhook...
@CalSgt Great suggestion!
I was looking at creative ways of not destroying the pipes and was thinking of this. Then could zip a little slice off the new muffler flanges and weld them on right next to the old welds.
It’s more about having the time TO do it myself. Vs the amount of time to take...
Overall, a great builder or fix a few things and drive a classic cool looking beater that is capable of doing work.
If you’re planning on restoring it, it’s fairly straight but by no means a scuff n squirt level of clean/straight truck.
IMO, $3500 is about top dollar for that truck. You’re not...