How should I solve this starter problem

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rusted nuts

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Yeah already replaced the negative battery cable for this reason. About 2 years ago. It was completely corroded inside. Now the problem appears again.
There's a cause for battery cables to turn green inside but I can't remember what in ell it is,, something to do with the way current flows though the frame and body
 

Juggernaut

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The starter has the highest amp draw of anything on your truck. IMO you should be running your ground directly to the engine block, then run a ground strap from a different bolt to the frame and cab. Remove any paint under the bolt you're going to use, and I like to use a little dielectric grease and a star lock washer between the terminal and the block. DC current likes to cause copper to corrode, that's why manufacturers use dielectric grease in light sockets.
 

Albrigap

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Percussion maintenance may free a stuck brush with no troubles ever again.
Battery cables are rarely looked at but should be.
The resistance test tells it all.
Do the voltage drop test or look at the length of the cable and ends with a temp gun after starting.
 

PhotonFanatic

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Percussion maintenance may free a stuck brush with no troubles ever again.
Battery cables are rarely looked at but should be.
The resistance test tells it all.
Do the voltage drop test or look at the length of the cable and ends with a temp gun after starting.

Maybe someone makes a better starter. A brushless one.
 

Rusty Nail

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Yeah already replaced the negative battery cable for this reason. About 2 years ago. It was completely corroded inside. Now the problem appears again.

You fixed half of the problem 2 years ago and still think the whole thing should be fixed now? Got any pix old boy?
 

PhotonFanatic

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I'm not one to go on fixing things that aren't broken. Two years ago it appeared to fix the whole problem. Ground wire died, replaced it and everything worked fine for a time. What else do you do?

No pics right now cause I've got it all apart and I'm redoing some of the wiring. It would just be pics of a mess. There were a few bad spots I could see once I had the starter out, on the positive wires. May as well fix those while I'm at it. I'll search the rest of the wiring and make sure everything is good everywhere.
 

Camar068

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with starter issues I always replace the starter and positive/negative cables. You choose the order.
 

SquareRoot

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FWIW, I put a new AC Delco, Permanent Magnet High Torque starter (98) on my truck (85) today. Nothing wrong with the OEM 85 unit. OMG! What a difference. 2/3 the size, twice the power, 3 times the reliability. The sound difference is amazing. Worth every penny.
 

PhotonFanatic

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FWIW, I put a new AC Delco, Permanent Magnet High Torque starter (98) on my truck (85) today. Nothing wrong with the OEM 85 unit. OMG! What a difference. 2/3 the size, twice the power, 3 times the reliability. The sound difference is amazing. Worth every penny.

Do you have a link to the one you used? I didn't know AC Delco made a better starter for these trucks.
 

CalSgt

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FWIW, I put a new AC Delco, Permanent Magnet High Torque starter (98) on my truck (85) today. Nothing wrong with the OEM 85 unit. OMG! What a difference. 2/3 the size, twice the power, 3 times the reliability. The sound difference is amazing. Worth every penny.
Love those little starters!
Do you have a link to the one you used? I didn't know AC Delco made a better starter for these trucks.
Starter for a GMT400 truck…. They’re technically not for our squarebodies but came from a SBC so they bolt right up.
 

SquareRoot

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PhotonFanatic

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Thanks! I'll see if I can get one. Got more time to work on the truck now, so I'll see if they have one at the local starter rebuild shop. They'll know exactly what I need to upgrade I'm sure. Especially if I tell them the info posted here.

EDIT:

Basically this one. If it bolts right up, I guess the only concern would be the gear teeth matching. That pic says 9 or 11 tooth drive gears. Guess I'll just count the teeth on my starter.

 
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