Patch Panel or Metal Fabrication ?

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mxer147

83 K20, 350 vortec, 465, 208, 14/10, 4.10, 33s
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Colorado
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Jack
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1983
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k20
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350

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AKguy

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1981
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I know a couple of people that bought primeweld units and are extremely happy. I plan to buy a plasma from them soon.
Yes, I have a MIG180 and a TIG225X, nice machines and great customer service.
 

DoubleDingo

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Bagoomba
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1981, 1965
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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s; 65-C20 with 4:57 gears and Borg Warner Overdrive
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Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
I used a body hammer to break up the bondo and find solid metal . I’ll grind the area down to confirm good metal and sand blast areas needing cleanup. No reason to hammer the **** out of it to only create more work.
Sounds like you did what he explained to me. Hammer the crumbly metal, stop at the good. I mentioned the hammer because we all want you to fix it right, not fix it to where you think the rust stops, and then end up with more work down the road because rust was left and took over the new metal. If I recall, there is a member on here that did a ton of body work, only to end up with a bunch of rust repairs within a couple of years because he didn't remove it all.
 

Grit dog

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.023 wire
Agree, although I did all the weld up on the 86 with 035 (flux core) because that was what was in the welder I borrowed from my buddy.

Most of the sheetmetal on these old trucks is thick enough to spot weld with bigger wire.
If I had my preference though I’d go smaller wire and gas shield.

@mxer147 if you have any wire feed, even the cheapest buzz box, it’ll work just fine for body panel welding.
And definitely use patch panels whether pre-manufactured or if you’re lucky enough to find a junk truck to cut them out of.
Good luck!
 

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