Question on leaf springs

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bluecamden85

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I ordered 2 in lift from rough country front and back . I noticed the rear leaf springs didn't come with a wedge on the bottom. Anyone know?
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crazy4offroad

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Front lift springs usually have some wedge to correct caster angle to keep you steering geometry right. Rear springs don't need this, it keeps the pinion bearing oiled. Unless you have a lot of lift and need to correct the rear driveline angle, rear springs don't get wedged.
 

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Oh thanks. One more thing. The new leafs springs have less leafs than my old one it doesn't have the flat leaf at the bottom. It has less leafs. Wouldn't that be less lift? I measured eye bolt to eye bolt it was 52 in but my truck is a long bed. Did tllong beds come With 52 in springs or only 56 or both . I gotta remeasure cause I measured straight across. The wrong way.
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Craig 85

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Use a string or tape measure to your stock spring. A 52" spring is equal length from the eye lets to the center pin. 56" springs will be longer to the rear of the center pin by 4".

1/2 ton's come with both 52 & 56" springs. Look at the rear spring hanger and take a picture for us. 52" will have holes behind the bracket and 56" they will be in front.
 

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Will do after work. Just to double check. I did measure eye to eye it was 52 but will put a pic on later never noticed the extra holes.
 

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That's going to be painful...

52" rear Rough country spring is going to ride like a 1 ton. For a spring only lift, you shouldn't need any wedge. You will need a wedge for a shackle flip because it changes the spring geometry by a bunch. If you have a 1/2 ton, I would have just put a 2" block in the rear with new U-joints. Front should have just gotten a 2" lift Tuff country EZ-ride spring. You shouldn't even need to do brake lines or change shocks with just a 2" lift.
 

bluecamden85

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Yeah I hear that they ride kinda rough. But I thought it'd ride better with leafs in the back compared to a block with old leafs. Not sure if leaf springs go bad besides the bushings. Maybe some flex. I should of went with the ez ride but it was a few more hundred. The frame isn't rusty in the back (pic makes it look like it)just surface rust. I took a wire wheel in front of the hanger for few seconds a month ago been lazy since. Rear hanger.
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Bextreme04

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Yeah I hear that they ride kinda rough. But I thought it'd ride better with leafs in the back compared to a block with old leafs. Not sure if leaf springs go bad besides the bushings. Maybe some flex. I should of went with the ez ride but it was a few more hundred. The frame isn't rusty in the back (pic makes it look like it)just surface rust. I took a wire wheel in front of the hanger for few seconds a month ago been lazy since. Rear hanger.
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The rough country lift springs will be stiffer than stock rear leaf springs. In some cases they are stiffer than stock 3/4 ton springs. The spring rate on them is ridiculous. The rear hangers are in the position for 52" springs. You can see the holes in the frame where the rear hanger can slide back 4" and bolt right in.

My K25 had 56" springs stock. I moved the front hanger forward 4" and am running stock GMT-400 Suburban 61" springs. It gave me about 2-1/2" of lift over stock and rides much softer, while still giving me 3/4 ton hauling capacity. I am running an ORD 2-1/2" shackle flip kit as well. For the front I got a set of Tuff Country ez-ride 4" lift springs used locally for $100.
 

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I only got the rear leafs because I didn't want to have mess with the eye bushings, lazy I guess. I remember them being kinda wore out . I hear there a pain. If all else fails I'll put back the originals back in with a block . The front springs for a hundred is a steal. As for the 61" springs Did you make holes for the hanger bracket at the bottom of frame? Some have them some don't I guess. I gotta pay more attention to the holes in the frame.
 

Bextreme04

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I only got the rear leafs because I didn't want to have mess with the eye bushings, lazy I guess. I remember them being kinda wore out . I hear there a pain. If all else fails I'll put back the originals back in with a block . The front springs for a hundred is a steal. As for the 61" springs Did you make holes for the hanger bracket at the bottom of frame? Some have them some don't I guess. I gotta pay more attention to the holes in the frame.
I put in all new ORD kevlar bushings with the greasable bolts. It was kind of a pain to get the old ones out, but not terrible. I basically just set the rubber on fire with a torch and pushed the metal sleeve out of the center. Then the rubber was easy to pry out. I had to drill new holes for the front hanger, but it wasn't bad. The holes for the rear hanger for both 52" and 56" spring lengths are already present in the frame.
 

bluecamden85

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Any body know the approximate leaf spring rate on stock 82 k15 . The rough country springs are 8100 series and it says the spring rate is 311.99 in lbs . Learning as I go.
 

Bextreme04

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Any body know the approximate leaf spring rate on stock 82 k15 . The rough country springs are 8100 series and it says the spring rate is 311.99 in lbs . Learning as I go.
Where did they give that spring rate? According to this thread, thats not even close to what Fourwheel and offroad mag found them to be back in 1999. Here's a table of spring rates for common 4" lift springs. The Tuff Country EZ-Rides feel softer than my factory HD front springs and the table says 395 lbs/in.

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/spring-rates.2543/
 

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Great Info in this thread.
 

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But what is that source? They aren't even using the correct units... spring rate will be in pounds per inch of compression(lb/in). In-lb is a torque measurement and makes no sense in this application. The table in the thread I linked to came from empirical testing done by an off-road magazine and included 8100 series Rough Country springs. Unless they made them significantly softer recently, I don't think that is correct.
 

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