Whats the going rate for shortening a driveshaft? I think I got....shafted

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CalSgt

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First time I needed a steel driveshaft shortened it was about $125-$150 with u-joints (in 1998)

Last time I had the same rear shaft repaired it was close to $350 after a u-joint failed (in 2006)
New tube, u-joints, 1 new yoke, balance and paint

New custom 1350 double cardan shafts with long slip shafts for my jeep were close to $600 each (2020)

All were mild steel & all from the same shop in Reno NV
 

nvrenuf

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@SquareRoot @Frankenchevy my rear shaft angle caused a lot of vibration and shims didn’t do enough so I went with the CV style now. The CV head is 1410 from a Super Duty. It all looks like a typical front shaft but it’s noticeably bigger. Ironically, my front driveshaft is set up with single joints at each end.

For scale, here are my new (left) and old (right) CV’s next to a regular sized spray paint can.

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Elliot W

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Elliot,

How long is that shaft? I'm surprised you don't have a two piece shaft with a manual trans in a 2wd long bed? As soon as I swap my T case over from the 208 to 205, I'll be needing new shafts. According to my measurements, that puts it at like 65+ inches. Nobody will make me a shaft over 63 inches due to whipping (vibration) issues. I'm planning on a two piece setup cause I ain't spending 700-800 bucks on a big fat aluminum shaft.
I got the shaft shortened to 60 inches joint to joint. I suspect it was about 65 inches or more when I got it. I think it came off a 90s 1500 extended cab. My c10 is a short bed.
 

SquareRoot

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I got the shaft shortened to 60 inches joint to joint. I suspect it was about 65 inches or more when I got it. I think it came off a 90s 1500 extended cab. My c10 is a short bed.
Ahhhh, you threw me off with that photo in post #1. It sure looks like a long bed unless the camera angle is off or you did some Sheetmetal rearranging to ol' blue?
 

SquareRoot

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@SquareRoot @Frankenchevy my rear shaft angle caused a lot of vibration and shims didn’t do enough so I went with the CV style now. The CV head is 1410 from a Super Duty. It all looks like a typical front shaft but it’s noticeably bigger. Ironically, my front driveshaft is set up with single joints at each end.

For scale, here are my new (left) and old (right) CV’s next to a regular sized spray paint can.

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Going off the info in your signature, is the length of the doubler coupled with the lift and the 40 inch tires what makes your shaft so short? Not trying to be funny, I know what your thinking. lol
 

nvrenuf

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Going off the info in your signature, is the length of the doubler coupled with the lift and the 40 inch tires what makes your shaft so short? Not trying to be funny, I know what your thinking. lol

lol that's what she said... :anitoof:

I guess it's a combination of the Doubler and the shorter Blazer wheelbase. I'm running a D70HD rear axle which also has a longer pinion snout than a typical 14 bolt but the axle is also pushed rearward 3" (for better deparcher angle) so that's probably a break even.
 

Grit dog

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Couldn’t get that done for $300 around here…
Hell, the body shop I just had our Ram fixed at quoted me a $1000 FU price to paint the rear bumper and fender flares. Just paint and clear while they were painting the other new parts from the insurance job.
That was me bringing them in, off the truck, prepped, ready for paint!
Now that’s a ripoff.
Ended up doing it myself.
PS I took a pic of when I started to clear out the shop and set up a spray booth. And another when I was done and everything put back in the shop. 3.5 hours. Total actual paint time, under an hour. And it was cold so I had to wait for pieces to warm up and wait in between coats of clear.
And $47 for a pint of base coat. And I finally used up some 22 year old clear coat that I’d been packing around for, well, 22 years knowing I’d need it “some day” lol.

Your guy actually earned the $200+ he got in labor after the cost of u joints and materials.
 

Bennyt

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$300 seems fair. If you did overpay, probably not more than $50. As long as you are happy with the workmanship.

What's the story w/ the second gen? I see rear downbars! I have a 63SS.
 

Nasty-LSX

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sounds about right. $100 bucks here just to balance.
 

Craig Nedrow

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I have made quite a few driveshafts, consider what is involved..setting up a steady rest, cutting on the weld till you get to the yoke, knock off the yoke, face and chamfer inside and outside for the weld. Put it back in the lathe and press it together with a straight edge on each end to to clock the u-joints, pull out place on lathe bed and check again for clocking. (the lathe bed is flat, ground and level. I place two 12" Starrett square blades on each u-joint, stand back and "eyeball" them level.) place back in lathe, dial in on at least three places, tap to get the least runout, spot weld. do the above again, if it is good, Tig weld with 309 SS filler rod. After welding back in lathe and use heat and water quench to get the least runout you can, Driveline tubing is never perfectly round, but with time and heat shrinking the shaft, can usually get around .01 runout. I cannot balance, but I have run shafts I have made for myself, and they do not vibrate. Takes me three hours. Drive shaft speed, (read engine RPM in direct or overdrive,) is reduced drastically by length.
 
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Craig Nedrow

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Gotta get to the shop, doing rods today, nice sit down job for an ol' coggie.
 

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if u got a bandsaw and a piece of angle iron u can do it your self
 

Elliot W

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Its a 66 2-door sedan. I've had it for 5 years now (as of yesterday) and learned a ton from working on it (floor pans, paint/body etc.). A few motor swaps later....its a sbc350 bored over .030 with Holley Sniper EFI. This thing used to be an old strip car but I'm really just looking to cruise around in it. Its not built for speed and if it went anywhere in a hurry it might fall apart. Heres some pics of when I got it and where it is now. I took an autobody/paint class at the local vocational school so I was able to spray it myself!
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Elliot W

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