Dumb down headlight relays for me.

Camar068 said:

The old wiring and various connections between the headlights and battery are the issue. They are old, corroded and what not. With a $30 kit from LMC, using the vehicles old power, to the headlights, as a signal for the relays to send DIRECT POWER from the battery eliminates the truck wiring. Your looking at max 4 foot of new wire compared to guessing 12 foot of old wire with various connections/components in the mix as well.

Installing relays on mine, I went from 10.5 volts to them to ~13.5 volts. Obviously they are brighter.

Yes the kit is super easy to install.

Click to expand...

yup, that's quite a bit of loss.
i don't have anywhere near that on mine.
that's why i 'figured' reducing path loss, as i stated in my post, wouldn't do much.

if the OP situation is like yours, then absolutely.

@Bennyt I checked out the website more last night, they have all kinds of good stuff on there. I'll gladly pay more for quality products. My wallet will be lighter again this payday, but it's for the betterment of the truck

I had an earlier question and I don't want it to get buried. Did the factory headlights have a dual filament in the top row that would also kick on for the high beams or were they the same in either mode and the bottom row kicked on for the high beams?

What I've read is yes, dual filament on the top, and single filament on the bottom.

Thank you, hopefully my bottom ones are just burn out and it's not a wiring issue.... I appreciate all the help.

It's also important to confirm the pin configuration on the headlight sockets. I just found this issue recently on a Jeep I was replacing the factory headlight bulbs with LED. When I put the LED bulbs in I had odd issues that would change when plugging in the second headlight. When I plugged in the first bulb, it was a little dim, when I plugged in the second bulb it got brighter, which is the exact opposite of normal. I traced down the wires on the headlight sockets and found someone had repined the sockets incorrectly.

When I hit the brights it would do something different on the passanger side VS the driver side headlight. I corrected the placement of the wires and everything worked fine. The way it was wired, the ground from the driver side was going through the passenger side headlight to find a ground, which is what caused the issue.

When we first painted this truck years ago we were putting the bulbs back in. We had an electrical problem we could not track down and come to find out we had put a wrong bulb in one of the cab lights. I can't remember now (it's been about 15 years) but I think one of the bulbs from the tail had a different little prong on it then the cab lights do and it was causing a ground issue.

Another question, if I decide to replace all four headlights with a stock style light, is there one brand or model that is better than the others? Or are they all about the same.

I've had good luck with Sylvania.

Thanks
At this point Im just going to buy all 4 new stock style lights. If they are not working correctly I will dig into the wiring issues after that. I am guessing several of them have burnt out over the years and I did not know it.

I got all 4 lights replaced and everything worked. I might have a loose connection somewhere as one of the lights was not on but I reached in from the hood and wiggled the harness and it came on. I had to leave for work after that but at least all the lights are on. I still didn't have a high beam indicator on the dash which I think I had in the past but I can't recall honestly.

Could just be burned out bulb under the dash for the indicator

The single best headlight accessory you can get is a .22 to keep in the truck and shoot out the lights of all the A$$HOLES driving with their brights AND fog lights on and aimed at a point 6' above the road. Like is this the jungle, pythons gonna drop from the trees? Are you jacklighting deer on Hollywood Blvd?

Sincerely, I could mount searchlights in my grille and it wouldn't help me at all. 60% of the time my vision is totally blown out at that moment by glare.

I know that one of the tactical flashlight companies makes a "crew-serviced" 2-man light source as a non-lethal weapon. I've also considered mounting 10,000-watt 5degree-beam photo flash units right behind my grille and actually blinding folks. With a generator in the back I could step up to a 50k Mole on a steadicam rig....

B

"Non-lethal ocular disruption"