The 383 is finally going in!

Been a while since i had the engine and trans in the car but now is the time to change that!
This is actually my first time installning so maybe you guys could help me before i even try to get it in.
Can i install it with my hedman headers on etc?
Should i remove the distributor?

Any help is appreciated

labbetheking said:

Should i remove the distributor?

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At the very least, remove the cap and rotor. They're easy to break if they bump the firewall. Probably best to have the entire distributor out.

Others will have more wisdom to share.

Might be a little easier to install the motor with the headers off for the sake of clearance issues dropping in. Personally I’d pull the distributor for the reason posted above, it only takes a fraction of a second to destroy it vs the few minutes to remove it.

It's easier if you can get the headers bungee-corded, roped, tied, etc. off to the side and set the engine down between them rather than trying to fish them up or down into place after the engine is set.

Ok! thank you guys for the advices

Shawn Watson said:

It's easier if you can get the headers bungee-corded, roped, tied, etc. off to the side and set the engine down between them rather than trying to fish them up or down into place after the engine is set.

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Agreed.
And not that it matters if you already have the headers, but imo it’s the right time to see if you’re able to remove them with the engine installed. For future reference.

All good advice

Remove the distributor

Pre hang the headers

An engine leveler helps in many cases, but looks like you should be able to man handle it if necessary seeing as how you have the rad support out.

I like to use old thick blankets to cover stuff I don't want to scratch up. Even lay one over the cross member where the oil pan will eventually be. (if that's a concern of yours) Shiny things scare me.

And lastly now is the time to bolt up the transmission to the engine. You never mentioned if that was your plan or not. I like to hook the transmission cooling lines up at this point as well.

And lastly (for real this time), if there is anything small at the back of the block or on the lower sides of the block that needs finishing up before you drive the truck (plugs, sending units, block casting numbers (seriously)), now is the time to do it. Much easier on the floor than in the engine bay. Small stuff that shouldn't get damaged during the install. I have been trying on and off for a few weeks now to get the casting number off the back of my block!!! Previous owner painted the block black and it is a PITA to read it!! Tried every light and wire brush that I own to try to clean it up enough to read but no luck yet. I'll get it eventually.

Good Luck with it all
Codfish

I'm really not fast but now it's in. What should i do first now? Feel like i'm kinda stuck and clueless. .. should i mount the fuel lines first? . Please give me a push and som tips PLZ

I'd start with the fuel/trans cooler lines and starter/distributor/EFI wiring while you have the radiator support off.

Maybe i'll give the fuel lines a go. You guys know any good link how i should mount the return line to my old fuel tank?

If it were me, I would make sure to be well hydrated and eat some snack or something before you get too started.

Screw being hangry - there's no reason for that..

I'm so slow but finally im getting something done. Installed my malpassi fuel regulator and started to mount the fuel pump and return line
to the tank.
Can i use the original vent pipe on the tank for my little hose and air filter?

My car aint going to no showroom so i just painted the areas with some minor rust.
Fuel system done with some electric work left (fuel pump).
Next up is power steering and ac pump i guess.
Just received my dual 14" spal fans aswell!