Question about wood bed stain and sealer for my 1987 Stepside

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roguewave

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Finishing up with the restoration on my 1987 shortbed Stepside 4X4. I’ve ordered the new bed wood in pine and was wondering what color stain (if any) and what kind of UV resistant sealer to use? Trying to keep it as original as possible without painting it black (factory they came painted). Thought maybe just to seal it with a quality Marine product and forget the stain.
thoughts?
 

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DoubleDingo

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Check out Stovebolt for bed wood sealer comments, those old boys have done plenty of them over there. Just make sure you seal every single surface including the ends. When I bought Crusty Biscuit the PO said the bed had been redone. It looked great. But they only sealed the top, so the boards all cupped upwards. I will be in this boat soon, as I will be ordering a new kit in a couple days.
 

Murf

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I am using oak so I went with Minwax Golden Oak after PreStain. The painter will apply Clear Coat before install.
Many other issues are popping up. I am going with hidden strips but now find the angle strips are spot welded from GM, can’t replace outer boards without notching or grinding away welds because bolts are in the way. More problems
 

1STLS1

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I have 2 step side beds and have done a ton of research on this. One vendor did testing on various coatings and these were the result for that time period. Things over time have have changed a little.





My one bed is done in Yellow Pine with Heisman spar varnish on top and black, semi gloss Rustoleum on the bottom and darkened over time just sitting in the garage. I reluctantly broke down and purchased BedWood's Red Oak pre finished in their clear satin. Their sales rep stated it's a proprietary finish that will last 20 years exposed to the elements. It's currently still in the box waiting to be assembled but I will say their finish is flawless and appears like high end furniture. I will also add, it's priced like high end furniture.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Personally I think boiled linseed oil is one of the best wood preservers. It also doesn't change the color much, the wood loves it as well, keeps it from drying out. I use it on all my wood handled tools, like the old timers used to. Something that's outside and getting used will need to be recoated every couple years for sure, but more like once a year.
 

Rickf

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My '37 has boiled linseed oil on both sides, not always under cover and still in decent condition.
 

Bennyt

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Subscribed for ideas.
If anyone has pics of the boiled linseed, I'd like to see.

I'm close to finishing up the wood on our '77 Fleetside and just about ready to stain.

Side note..I used the hidden stainless strips as strips aren't available for fleetsides and everything had to be cut down.

Anyone know of a source for the special splined carriage bolts that isn't $2.50 a bolt. I need close to a hundred.
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Ken B

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Following ,,,,,I have red oak for my stepside and was wondering sealant.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Also just an fyi it HAS to be BOILED linseed oil, the non boiled gets sticky and tacky.
 

Ken B

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I may try some boiled linseed on the bottom of a board and see what is looks like. Have used linseed for other things but that red oak is $$ dont wanna have to replace ....EVER haha
 

Ken B

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Did a test,
Linseed oil(thinned w mineral spirits), spar varnish, red chesnut stain and red oak stain. on back of red oak bed wood.
I have Stainless strips and hardware truck is brown. My knee jerk reaction is Linseed oil. Its more about protection for me so the wood survives. And with a dark brown paint the lighter wood would contrast well i think


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Bennyt

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Watched a couple of videos earlier on boiled Linseed oil. One guy changed the dilution with each coat

Another, the guy mixed in canning wax to make it watertight.
 

Ken B

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I thinned as per directions on container. 2pts paint thinner 1 part linseed
 

Shorty81

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Burn any rags that have linseed oil on them. Wadded up in a pile or in the trash can combust and catch fire.
 

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