Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
I got my new throttle cable today, I’ve got 0 idea what to do to get it installed. I can unhook it from throttle linkage at carb that’s about all I know lol.
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
I got my new throttle cable today, I’ve got 0 idea what to do to get it installed. I can unhook it from throttle linkage at carb that’s about all I know lol.
Frankly I don't think I've ever had to change one on a square, or it's been so long that I've forgotten the details. On the gas pedal end there will either be a clip, or a ball on the cable that links in on the pedal, I'm pretty sure it's a ball, regardless the hardest part for me about getting down in that area is getting my fat no longer very flexible body down there. As for the firewall it'll either clip to the firewall or have a rubber pass through that stays with the throttle cable, you can probably tell but looking at the new cable. Regardless if you lay the new cable out you'll know a lot about how it connects.
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
I’ll work on replacing that later, is there anything I can do to make the pedal easier to press? Also I just put my brain cells together the other day and I think the brake booster is junk. The brake pedal is hard to press like the truck isn’t on, it’s a little bit easier than if it’s off but not by much it doesn’t move very far. I assumed it was the new master cylinder but I’m not positive what it’s supposed to feel like. My 87 the pedal goes down quite a bit
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
@AuroraGirl new throttle cable installed, springs are both facing rearward. Got a bolt put in the transfer case cross member and snugged the other bolt. Whoever changes throttle cables for a living needs a raise I hated getting that cable through the firewall. And the new one I couldn’t get to snap on so I removed the rubber gasket and finally got it to snap on
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
I’ll work on replacing that later, is there anything I can do to make the pedal easier to press? Also I just put my brain cells together the other day and I think the brake booster is junk. The brake pedal is hard to press like the truck isn’t on, it’s a little bit easier than if it’s off but not by much it doesn’t move very far. I assumed it was the new master cylinder but I’m not positive what it’s supposed to feel like. My 87 the pedal goes down quite a bit
It's still stiff after replacing the cable?

Well the brake booster could be an intermittent vacuum leak. Might explain a lot, including your mileage....
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
The throttle cable moves really easy. Like a little too easy lol. I couldn’t hardly drive the truck I kept pressing the throttle too hard. But I’m having an issue where the truck wouldn’t fire. I kept cranking for a few seconds wait a few crank a few wait etc. finally it started to fire so I feathered the throttle a little and it finally started but it was a bit of a smoke show (darker color I couldn’t make out whether black or blue) and the truck will backfire? Sorta? While driving. Earlier leaving I shifted into second then hit the gas a little harder than I should have and the truck jumped around and sputtered and just didn’t have a great time. Eased back into throttle and it went fine. Taking off from an intersection I blipped the throttle and it had a miss(I suppose it’s more of a misfire than a backfire) then I eased back into throttle and it went fine
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
Taking a temperature reading of the exhaust manifold of each cylinder gives me
1-190.2
2-195.4
3-212.7
4-219.3
5-211.6
6-221
7-194.3
8-209.3
All of these measurements were taking with a cheap “General” brand thermometer shot to where the exhaust port is. Some other reading are
Intake manifold under carb-181.9
Drivers side head by temp sensor- 191
Passenger side head between 2&4 spark plugs- 180.8
Lower rad hose-139.4
Upper rad hose @intake -175
Upper rad hose @rad- 173
Radiator- 122
All measurements In degrees Fahrenheit
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
The throttle cable moves really easy. Like a little too easy lol. I couldn’t hardly drive the truck I kept pressing the throttle too hard. But I’m having an issue where the truck wouldn’t fire. I kept cranking for a few seconds wait a few crank a few wait etc. finally it started to fire so I feathered the throttle a little and it finally started but it was a bit of a smoke show (darker color I couldn’t make out whether black or blue) and the truck will backfire? Sorta? While driving. Earlier leaving I shifted into second then hit the gas a little harder than I should have and the truck jumped around and sputtered and just didn’t have a great time. Eased back into throttle and it went fine. Taking off from an intersection I blipped the throttle and it had a miss(I suppose it’s more of a misfire than a backfire) then I eased back into throttle and it went fine
I'm sorry I can't remember have you done a full tune up, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. If not you really should. If the ignition module is extremely old it would be good to replace it..... You have good vacuum readings most of the time yet a hard brake pedal. If you have a bad booster leaking vacuum it's not going to run right period. Once that's replaced if there are issues you'll be looking at too high of fuel pressure and / or internal carb problem.
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
Taking a temperature reading of the exhaust manifold of each cylinder gives me
1-190.2
2-195.4
3-212.7
4-219.3
5-211.6
6-221
7-194.3
8-209.3
All of these measurements were taking with a cheap “General” brand thermometer shot to where the exhaust port is. Some other reading are
Intake manifold under carb-181.9
Drivers side head by temp sensor- 191
Passenger side head between 2&4 spark plugs- 180.8
Lower rad hose-139.4
Upper rad hose @intake -175
Upper rad hose @rad- 173
Radiator- 122
All measurements In degrees Fahrenheit
Wow, that's really great info. Kind of another way of looking at engine health. Cheap thermometer is just fine.

How long had you run the engine when you took the temps?

The Exhaust manifold temps look fine BTW. If you had one bank, or one cylinder really high or really low, like by 100F we'd be concerned.

All those temps look good except possibly the intake manifold. I'm not sure that I've ever really taken the temp of an intake manifold before. You need to get some heat into it for proper fuel vaporization but too much and she'll percolate the gas in the carb after shut down. If I can remember to, I'll shoot the temp of my manifold tomorrow so you have something to compare it to, but in general I think that all looks good.
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
I’ve done plugs and wires and scuffed the cap and rotor they looked fine. Usually when a booster is leaking don’t you hear a hiss when pressing the pedal? I don’t so that’s why I never thought anything of it. I’d drove the truck home from dads, about 6 miles/10 minutes or so. It had also sat maybe 15 before I thought to check temps. Is there a reason the #8 cylinder was warmer than 7? They’re both farthest back but one side was 15° warmer. Could that be the exhaust leak letting fresh air in and also possibly causing the random miss? I was leaving the job site today since no one was there yet(truck was warm) and I was going up a hill in second around 25/30 mph and the truck made a droning sound and jerked a couple times like it was sputtering. It never stalled and made it to the top of the hill but that was the first time I’ve ever had that happen. Sorry for later response I’ve been at work since little before 4:30 this morning, it’s now 5:30 in the afternoon lol.
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
I’ve done plugs and wires and scuffed the cap and rotor they looked fine. Usually when a booster is leaking don’t you hear a hiss when pressing the pedal? I don’t so that’s why I never thought anything of it. I’d drove the truck home from dads, about 6 miles/10 minutes or so. It had also sat maybe 15 before I thought to check temps. Is there a reason the #8 cylinder was warmer than 7? They’re both farthest back but one side was 15° warmer. Could that be the exhaust leak letting fresh air in and also possibly causing the random miss? I was leaving the job site today since no one was there yet(truck was warm) and I was going up a hill in second around 25/30 mph and the truck made a droning sound and jerked a couple times like it was sputtering. It never stalled and made it to the top of the hill but that was the first time I’ve ever had that happen. Sorry for later response I’ve been at work since little before 4:30 this morning, it’s now 5:30 in the afternoon lol.
15 degrees ain't nothing, there will be some differences cylinder to cylinder, including where you shot the temp at could affect the numbers a little. If you were seeing 50F or 100F more that would be cause for concern. exhaust leak could possibly affect reading. Unlikely that an exhaust leak would cause a misfire.

Leaving the truck sit for 15 minutes gives the temps a chance to travel across the manifold and even out. For the most accurate results take them again this time leave the engine running so the effect of what is come out of each cylinder at the time can be read. If you do it like that we'll see more accurate numbers.

I'm really not sure what to make of all the random stuff you seem to have going on like this jerking. My gut tells me it's in the carburetor but it could be ignition as well. Yes, most commonly a booster will make a hissing noise if it's leaking, but there isn't to much else that will cause a hard pedal.
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
@iamtherealJayy one of the things that sucks about the forum is that none of us can be there with you. It's hard to tell what certain things are that don't make sense, for example the hard brake pedal with no hissing noise, or some of the intermittent issues you have had. I wonder if you would have a friend that could look at it in person with you that you trust that knows about older rigs. Oh, I'm on a computer with sound I'll go watch you start up video.
 

SirRobyn0

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2019
Posts
6,698
Reaction score
11,149
Location
In the woods in Western Washington
First Name
Rob
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
305
Both those starts look fine to me. Technically it should have stayed running on the first attempt when cold but really that's fine. I'm guessing you don't have a lot of carbureted engine experience and that's fine, but I would like to know if that is the case, I assume you are a young guy as well? I like the shoes BTW I like shoes that keep me feet cool, but that partly because of a medical issue cause I'm not young lol
 

iamtherealJayy

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
275
Location
Tennessee
First Name
Jacob
Truck Year
1987, 1978, 1976
Truck Model
V20, K10, K10
Engine Size
350, 350, 350
This is the first vehicle I’ve really went in depth with I’ve done a little tinkering but it usually got fixed pretty quick, this truck has been fighting me since I bought it lol. I’m thinking the reaosn it stalled when cold is the manual choke, I can never get it just right without making it overly rich and it will start “bubbling” sorta sound after 30 seconds or so of high idle so I try to pull it just enough to restrict air and not raise idle too much. I’d try to drive and get videos of the truck having problems but they’re so intermittent and you can’t hear or feel what I’m feeling. I’ve also got a slight vibration at cruising speeds(mainly 45+) that’s only there with no throttle or barely cracking the throttle. It goes away as soon as you get into the throttle. And the throttle isn’t very smooth input wise, it moves smoothly but if you let completely off the pedal you can feel the truck jerk and slow down like it’s got drag brakes or something and when you get on the throttle it throws you back (not aggressive but you can obviously tell when I’m on or off the pedal) and yes I love my crocs, it’s too hot to wear pants and boots so crocs are my work shoes lol. Poured little over 19 yards of concrete this morning. Also your assumption of younger fellow is correct, I’m 19, 20 at the end of august. I’m going tomorrow afternoon to buy 2 small block 305’s from someone for $200. Both mostly complete, but ones tune port injection. My plans are just to disassemble and atleast regasket one just for the experience. $200 I feel like I could completely ruin the engines and give them away or part them out and not feel too bad.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
41,848
Posts
903,426
Members
33,362
Latest member
Dhatch84
Top