Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

Here’s the transfer case bushing thing. And my oil leak and the spot from an hour of sitting.

Not sure if it has to do with the hotter weather or what but the truck doesn’t start first crank revently. It’s been cranking for 3-4 seconds or so and then stumbles before firing up.

iamtherealJayy said:

Not sure if it has to do with the hotter weather or what but the truck doesn’t start first crank revently. It’s been cranking for 3-4 seconds or so and then stumbles before firing up.

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Warm or cold? Shoot a vid of it and we can tell you if it seems ok / normal.

As for the other stuff, you need to look to see where the fluid is coming from. First start by cleaning up all the mess under there using whatever method you like. Traditional degreaser or a couple cans of brake clean. Then drive it a bit and you should be able to find it with a visual inspection, if not you can run a die test, but with that much dripping I'm sure you'll see it, you just need to clean up the excess so you can see the source of the leak.

As for the transmission cross member just run the 7/16" grade 8 nuts and bolts, as suggested. I'm not sure what the spacer thing is your taking about, is that the thing above the frame, before the nut. If so those are pretty much superfluous. Just run nuts and bolts. It's more important to replace them with something, before the remaining bolt lets go, than factory correct.

Both, but faster if I’d just shut the truck off, like leaving work for lunch it cranks and fires a little before finally starting. I’ve cleaned the whole engine bay and under the truck except for that tcase cross meme we. The oils are coming from rear of engine. I’ll work on getting some bolts in there to replace the missing one. Yes the spacer is what I was calling a bushing.

iamtherealJayy said:

Both, but faster if I’d just shut the truck off, like leaving work for lunch it cranks and fires a little before finally starting. I’ve cleaned the whole engine bay and under the truck except for that tcase cross meme we. The oils are coming from rear of engine. I’ll work on getting some bolts in there to replace the missing one. Yes the spacer is what I was calling a bushing.

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Ok good info. Having the engine in good tune is the first thing to easy starts.

Edelbrock carburetors don't like too much fuel pressure, so if those hard starts are accompanied by some black smoke or it seems like it's flooding you might need a pressure regulator, or you might need a heat reducing spacer to keep excess heat out of the carburetor.

It smokes on startup but I’m not positive if it’s dark like oil or fuel I haven’t checked it much yet. There is a ~1” spacer currently on there(quadrajet to edelbrock 4 hole adapter) I’m not sure if it’s flooding or not, pressing the gas doesn’t make it start faster so I’m assuming it’s got enough fuel but needs more air, pulling the choke or slightly applying throttle helps a little.

iamtherealJayy said:

It smokes on startup but I’m not positive if it’s dark like oil or fuel I haven’t checked it much yet. There is a ~1” spacer currently on there(quadrajet to edelbrock 4 hole adapter) I’m not sure if it’s flooding or not, pressing the gas doesn’t make it start faster so I’m assuming it’s got enough fuel but needs more air, pulling the choke or slightly applying throttle helps a little.

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A video of you cranking and starting it would be helpful. If you can get a look at the exhaust in sunlight during start up you should be able to tell if it's blue or black. If it's getting a bit of oil in the cylinders it might take a few extra seconds of cranking to clear that out before it fires.

About to go to work I will take a video of starting the truck, keep in mind first start today.

iamtherealJayy said:

About to go to work I will take a video of starting the truck, keep in mind first start today.

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Perfect. I'll be offline for most of the evening but will check in late at night.

Here’s startup going to work
And here’s the startup leaving
So it seems like the first start of the day it fires sooner but wanted to stall. Also lower vacuum until I took off down the road. Leaving work vacuum was higher but so was crank time. I did not press throttle or anything to leave since truck had already been ran.

Had to refill on fuel today, got from 31662.55 to 31773.55 (111 miles) by using 13.581 gallons of fuel. Comes to little over 8 mpg, sadly. I was really aiming for ten lol.

iamtherealJayy said:

Had to refill on fuel today, got from 31662.55 to 31773.55 (111 miles) by using 13.581 gallons of fuel. Comes to little over 8 mpg, sadly. I was really aiming for ten lol.

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I'm sorry buddy I haven't gotten to watch your video with sound yet. I've watched without audio but that's just not enough. Hopefully tonight.

you probably already know this but a lot can affect your mileage. Overdrive, manual vs, auto and rear end gearing as well as your right foot. I've had my truck for 4 going on 5 years. 305, 700R4 with 3.41 rear end. On my commute to the shop I've gotten consistently in the low 11's 11 - 11.2. I have achieved 16 on the highway by driving 55 - 60 and being easy on the skinny pedal, normal highway driving 70 - 75 and stepping on it to keep up with traffic 14MPG. Tow the big trailer with load and it's 6MPG. During the winter I replaced the intake manifold gasket and got the vacuum advance working. My last 2 fills (4 tanks) I've hit 14 on my commute now, and last time I towed the trailer was 9.6, no long highway trips empty yet so I don't know.

Your combination will likely yield lower mileage than mine, my point kind is we have questioned your intake, and that well could have a negative effect on your mileage as could anything else that is not right with how it runs. If it's a SBC engine you should see at least 10mpg, unless you really like pushing on the skinny pedal or have a low ratio rear end and like to drive high speeds a lot I agree that you should be able to see 10 at minimum.

The truck has lower rear end than my 87, the other teuck has a “3.42” and I get almost 13 with a 3/4 ton tbi truck. This 78 it’s really up there in rpms it took all of 3000 to hit 75. I admit my driving isn’t the best I often get higher in rpms and let off to make it pop lol. In Low you can pretty much dump the clutch and the truck will just take off. I have to shift to third at 40 where in the 87 second gear can take me to 55 if I push 3k.

iamtherealJayy said:

The truck has lower rear end than my 87, the other teuck has a “3.42” and I get almost 13 with a 3/4 ton tbi truck. This 78 it’s really up there in rpms it took all of 3000 to hit 75. I admit my driving isn’t the best I often get higher in rpms and let off to make it pop lol. In Low you can pretty much dump the clutch and the truck will just take off. I have to shift to third at 40 where in the 87 second gear can take me to 55 if I push 3k.

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Are you running factory tire size or close to it? If so a 4.10 would put you at 3,300 RPM at 75, a 3.73 would put at 3K flat, and a 4.56 would put you at 3,700RPM. Given what you have said about the truck I strongly suspect 4.10 is the most likely. My dad had a 78 K20 350 4.10 and he did 10 - 11. Without an over drive and low rear end gearing high mileage doesn't go up much if at all. Still you should be able to hit 10, if your not to hard on the skinny pedal. I've thought about disconnecting the secondaries. Sometimes I have a heavy foot and have trouble controlling it lol.

The tires are like a 29x10x15 ish I think. 255/75/15? I can’t remember if bave to look I suck with the metric sizes. But it’s definitely torquey taking off