Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

I haven’t ran a full tank through the truck yet, I’ve put atleast 18 miles on the truck with the fuel gauge showing 3/4, 20 gallon tank. I don’t know how accurate the fuel gauge is but I’m suspecting around 6mpg or so currently. If there’s anything that stirs your curiosity I can snap photos currently.

Here’s photos of around engine bay, one of them is the distributor hold down slightly oily. As @AuroraGirl mentioned the linkage, there is no play in any of the linkages.

Here’s the rtv all over the front China wall, and the second and third photos I have no idea what that plate is,also held on with rtv, or what it does. It has two metal tubes coming off that I’ve put vacuum caps on the ends of.

Thanks for the pics.

So one last little thing I'm going to bend your ear on is the EGR valve. Something for you to think about anyway. So the EGR valve is correctly blocked off and that's fine 350's seem to do ok like that. The point to the EGR valve is that it opens up under light throttle like at cruse. By bringing in some exhaust into the combustion chamber, because it's already been burned it can't burn again, so it basically takes up space in the combustion chamber and it can't be burned so that lowers combustion chamber temps. The main reason this was done was to reduce NOx emissions, a compound that is very destructive to lung tissue. Setting that aside for a moment there are other benifits to the EGR valve. The reduction in combustion chamber temps makes the engine a bit more resistant to part throttle pinging. And last but not least, because the exhaust gas being introduced to the combustion chamber takes some of the place the fuel / air mix normally would it can help improve fuel economy by getting it working.

Again 350's seem to run just fine without the EGR most of the time, but that gives you something else to think about.

Sorry for later response, just got home from work. I would’ve left the egr if I didn’t have the edelbrock. They didn’t go together without an adapter or block off plate and one cost 10x the other so you see what I chose. I just got home from work and I was sitting in the truck idling for a second then I revved just to hear the exhaust again and let it lower the rpms and shut it off and it kinda sorta dieseled? A little? It’s like it turned over twice again after it shut off. The truck shook like crazy. I’m also noticing once warm the oil pressure is low at idle. The gauge shows 0,60 and something else I dunno it doesn’t get that high. It’s usually 60 after first start and around 60 when in the throttle but at idle after it’s warm it’s closer to 30/35. I think I remember reading something about 25 is the lowest you should run a 350 but the 30-35 is concerning me. The truck does have an odd smell, my sister described as pinto beans. I’m hoping it’s just the jb weld I’d got on the exhaust? I’m not real sure tho. If you have any questions or concerns about the truck being warm please ask. I don’t need performance from this truck just need reliability.

iamtherealJayy said:

Sorry for later response, just got home from work. I would’ve left the egr if I didn’t have the edelbrock. They didn’t go together without an adapter or block off plate and one cost 10x the other so you see what I chose. I just got home from work and I was sitting in the truck idling for a second then I revved just to hear the exhaust again and let it lower the rpms and shut it off and it kinda sorta dieseled? A little? It’s like it turned over twice again after it shut off. The truck shook like crazy. I’m also noticing once warm the oil pressure is low at idle. The gauge shows 0,60 and something else I dunno it doesn’t get that high. It’s usually 60 after first start and around 60 when in the throttle but at idle after it’s warm it’s closer to 30/35. I think I remember reading something about 25 is the lowest you should run a 350 but the 30-35 is concerning me. The truck does have an odd smell, my sister described as pinto beans. I’m hoping it’s just the jb weld I’d got on the exhaust? I’m not real sure tho. If you have any questions or concerns about the truck being warm please ask. I don’t need performance from this truck just need reliability.

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So the SBC engines are kind of known for dieseling issues, and that's what you experienced. The cause is to much heat in the combustion chamber. The solution is typically too lower the idle speed a little if it's set on the higher side, but also sometimes just a couple seconds of idling is enough and they shut down just fine. I would not be overly concerned unless it does that to you a lot. Also a leaking intake gasket causing one cylinder to be lean can sometimes attribute.

The smell, if this truck hasn't been run much there will likely be some odd smells the first few times you run it / take it on the road and work it. If it's still there after a couple good runs then I'd investigate. Does it have a cat still?

I would not worry to much about those oil pressure readings it's an older worn engine. You could always go to a 20W50 oil, or add a 1/2 bottle of hyperlube to improve pressure a bit.

As for the EGR, I'm running an Edelbrock as well, but my motor is the 305. The 305 hates not having an EGR, I did a block off plate initially, but after a month or so popped for the adaptor, and later on had to pull the intake to clean out the passages as I needed that EGR to work so I could get the pinging under control. Between that and getting my timing worked out I picked up a couple miles per gallon. No kidding.

This is the first time it has done the dieseling, can any form of cleaners be added to the fuel or directly to carb to clean out the combustion area? You know like VGG “Italian tune up”? Lol. The smell has been there I’ve put maybe 30 miles on the truck now and it still has the smell but it’s off and on. There is an exhaust leak passenger side manifold to tailpipe joint. No cats, factory manifolds to 2” pipe to 18” thrush mufflers to 2” pipe. I want to go to headers or different manifolds to fix the passenger side leak. The current oil is <50 miles old and it’s 5w30 with an oil additive I don’t remember specific kind. I don’t know what the adapter costs now days but whenever I get around to building a different 350 for this truck I’ll make sure to keep the egr. I would have left jt on if it didn’t need an adapter to work with edelbrock.

The additive was “STP High mileage oil treatment + stop leak” 15 fl oz bottle I mainly added it for the zinc.

iamtherealJayy said:

This is the first time it has done the dieseling, can any form of cleaners be added to the fuel or directly to carb to clean out the combustion area? You know like VGG “Italian tune up”? Lol. The smell has been there I’ve put maybe 30 miles on the truck now and it still has the smell but it’s off and on. There is an exhaust leak passenger side manifold to tailpipe joint. No cats, factory manifolds to 2” pipe to 18” thrush mufflers to 2” pipe. I want to go to headers or different manifolds to fix the passenger side leak. The current oil is <50 miles old and it’s 5w30 with an oil additive I don’t remember specific kind. I don’t know what the adapter costs now days but whenever I get around to building a different 350 for this truck I’ll make sure to keep the egr. I would have left jt on if it didn’t need an adapter to work with edelbrock.

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Yes, so what I like to use is ACDelco X66A, it's mostly a professional product, so you won't see it at the auto parts store, but amazon does carry it. It's an arisol can and you put about 1/2 the can down the carb with the engine running, then kill it and leave it for 15 minutes. When you fire it up you'll get a smoke show and likely will smell it next time you drive it. The can recommends using the entire can, but I find 1/2 a can is enough for a seriously good decarb.

Alternatively you can do the seafoam thing. Put one can in the tank, and slowly pour a second can down the carb slowly with the engine running. Seafoam is a good product don't get me wrong, but you use the ACDelco X66A one time and you'll never go back to anything else. One thing, is it's terrible on paint, and if you get it on your skin or clothes you'll smell it until you shower. It's strong stuff.

Like I said before the 350 will get along ok without the EGR and lots of guys run no EGR, but there is for sure a benefit to having one as well.

iamtherealJayy said:

The additive was “STP High mileage oil treatment + stop leak” 15 fl oz bottle I mainly added it for the zinc.

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We could have a debate on the merits of one additive or the other but in the end my answer is yes that's fine.

iamtherealJayy said:

Sorry for later response, just got home from work. I would’ve left the egr if I didn’t have the edelbrock. They didn’t go together without an adapter or block off plate and one cost 10x the other so you see what I chose. I just got home from work and I was sitting in the truck idling for a second then I revved just to hear the exhaust again and let it lower the rpms and shut it off and it kinda sorta dieseled? A little? It’s like it turned over twice again after it shut off. The truck shook like crazy. I’m also noticing once warm the oil pressure is low at idle. The gauge shows 0,60 and something else I dunno it doesn’t get that high. It’s usually 60 after first start and around 60 when in the throttle but at idle after it’s warm it’s closer to 30/35. I think I remember reading something about 25 is the lowest you should run a 350 but the 30-35 is concerning me. The truck does have an odd smell, my sister described as pinto beans. I’m hoping it’s just the jb weld I’d got on the exhaust? I’m not real sure tho. If you have any questions or concerns about the truck being warm please ask. I don’t need performance from this truck just need reliability.

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The item in your pictures with the two tubes is for a "hot air" choke. Those two tubes connect together and just make a loop that passes down into the intake in the heat crossover passage. Sometimes they get rusted out inside there and it then makes a hole into the exhaust crossover. If you pull those tubes and don't feel any pressure coming out of them with the engine running you can just leave them out. Honestly, I'd probably just change the intake manifold gaskets and put some thread sealant on the intake bolts. The intake gaskets are cheap and it is a pretty easy job. Bonus is you'll get to see what kind of condition the inside of the motor is in.

Also, when I do a seafoam or engine treatment I'll usually put it in through the PCV hose. It helps clean up those passages, which are often what gets gummed up first anyways.

Bextreme04 said:

Also, when I do a seafoam or engine treatment I'll usually put it in through the PCV hose. It helps clean up those passages, which are often what gets gummed up first anyways.

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I agree that with seafoam putting it down the PCV is good idea, but also putting some down the carb. helps to clean up the throttle plates, but that is really better done with an aerosol, so if you do the seafoam thing, maybe grab a can of carb cleaner just so you can do a complete job. If you do the ACDelco X66A, you could certainly put some of it though the PCV and some of it down the carb to get good coverage in both areas.

I can do the aerosol too but the carb isn’t very old since I’ve had it apart and cleaned it up since I did the jets(which are back factory if you wondered) but I thought pcv was a crank vent? Wouldn’t pouring it in that go into the oil and thin it out some? Or am I not understanding how the pcv works? I think the truck has a little blowby, when I had a different air filter on that fed the pcv into the intake I noticed some oil in the vacuum gauge clear line. So I changed the pcv back to the one that came on jt and changed the air filter back to the moroso one then changed the mixture screws for the different filter. I do have one question, what should I do about the exhaust? The passenger side manifold joint has like two screws that go through with a rectangle piece of metal that has been threaded and you run those through to tighten down and then the third part is a stud(not threaded for some reason?) I’ve tried everything from red rtv to jb weld around the stud to get it to stop leaking. It sounds horrendous inside the cab, you can’t hear it much as the truck is going down the road, but inside all you hear is pfft pfft pfft. So the big question is replacement manifold(s) or headers? I don’t want to spend a tremendous amount of money I just want to fix what needs fixed

iamtherealJayy said:

Here’s photos of around engine bay, one of them is the distributor hold down slightly oily. As @AuroraGirl mentioned the linkage, there is no play in any of the linkages.

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a new filter may help.. it looks wet and dirty..(joke in there somewhere)

Jay I feel like this is all going to be deja vu because I probably said these things.....
your throttle cable is ****** up, you need a new one. your cable is broken and that little wire I feel like is a recipe for delayed throttle because you have ot pull the slack out of the cable before it starts moving and its not going to stay linear if you let off etc


Return springs. go to autostore, they sell the factory 2 spring set on the shelf. Use those springs where your rear spring is and cut out the front one.
are those vacuum lines off carb (all of them) rated for their purpose
They make hose for vac advance you should use that hose on the parts you have (fish tank tubing?) You should replace the old one you have becuase its old anyway, you should have a PCV rated hose on the PCV to carb. is that a Fuel line or PCV hose? If you take that exact line into the auto store, you can have them cut a same size piece of PCV hose(Wont collapse, yours looks like it may do that in the bend)
your bend is good tho
|

But I see your statement about bandaids. Okay. Did you see the powerblast plate thing?
I am confident with a return line, power blast plate, some vacuum hoses, and the vacuum fitting behind carb(Do you not have your transmission modulator hooked up?) you will prob see a good boost of driveability increase

SirRobyn0 said:

I agree that with seafoam putting it down the PCV is good idea, but also putting some down the carb. helps to clean up the throttle plates, but that is really better done with an aerosol, so if you do the seafoam thing, maybe grab a can of carb cleaner just so you can do a complete job. If you do the ACDelco X66A, you could certainly put some of it though the PCV and some of it down the carb to get good coverage in both areas.

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sea foam has a aerosol top end spray