Precision Vent Window Program

For me, I spent enough hours that I may have sent them out, in hindsight. But would be far quicker had I not disassembled them completely and the prep, masking, painting took way too long for literally 4 little pieces.

I did mine a few years ago. It was a pain. I slightly tore one sliding it in the frame. I don't think they got completely in place right. I too took one totally apart and didn't need too. The second one I did not take apart as much it I remember. I bought the rivet kit and it didn't work easy like you would think. I believe bonuses pop rivets to secure the side piece. The painting the pieces did take way too long. I just used spray paint and spray paint clear so it won't last forever. But my truck stays in a shed and doesn't see much direct sunlight so it will last decent enough. If I need to paint them again I'll mask them on the truck and paint them on the truck.

I'm glad I did them myself and saved $200 a window or whatever and didn't have to wait two months for them. I will agree they are a pain in the bit and took way to long and too much effort. Also it was a puzzle getting the passenger one back in place for some reason...I think it was the passenger. Maybe the door is bent in some way?

80BrownK10 said:

I did mine a few years ago. It was a pain. I slightly tore one sliding it in the frame. I don't think they got completely in place right. I too took one totally apart and didn't need too. The second one I did not take apart as much it I remember. I bought the rivet kit and it didn't work easy like you would think. I believe bonuses pop rivets to secure the side piece. The painting the pieces did take way too long. I just used spray paint and spray paint clear so it won't last forever. But my truck stays in a shed and doesn't see much direct sunlight so it will last decent enough. If I need to paint them again I'll mask them on the truck and paint them on the truck.

I'm glad I did them myself and saved $200 a window or whatever and didn't have to wait two months for them. I will agree they are a pain in the bit and took way to long and too much effort. Also it was a puzzle getting the passenger one back in place for some reason...I think it was the passenger. Maybe the door is bent in some way?

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Agree with everyone it's a PITA. When I did mine i kept a spray bottle of soapy water. Can never have too much water ....where it's needed....not everywhere lol.

As for the rivets, the kit comes with a bunch and I found it takes 2 people. I aligned it on my bench-vise in the proper position, had the helper grab and hold while I punched. Just give them a heads up if it aint pretty, you might have to drill it out and do it again. Might be a 10 minute job or a 45 minute job.

IMO, there's got to be a simple jig to put these things into to hold them in place. If one was out there, I'd be willing to pay somewhere around $30 for it.

That brother video is misleading. The precision video with Jeff and Greg is better and there is no disassembly except for the vent window rivet. ( the pivot rivet) We did one each way and as long as you use the rebuild kit with the rivet tool it all works but take a lot of patience!

Randy De Oreo said:

That brother video is misleading. The precision video with Jeff and Greg is better and there is no disassembly except for the vent window rivet. ( the pivot rivet) We did one each way and as long as you use the rebuild kit with the rivet tool it all works but take a lot of patience!

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That’s the only one I didn’t take out! Lol

Randy De Oreo said:

That brother video is misleading. The precision video with Jeff and Greg is better and there is no disassembly except for the vent window rivet. ( the pivot rivet) We did one each way and as long as you use the rebuild kit with the rivet tool it all works but take a lot of patience!

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I used the tool but I didn't hit it with a hammer it screws one of the rivets up. I ended up putting brhe whole thing in the vise and slowly closing it to crush the rivet. Still isn't right like factory but I lived with it.

I think the second one I didn't undo the hinge rivet. I can't remember now and would have to go back and look at it.

My biggest problem was getting the pop rivet gun to fit in the areas that needed to be riveted. The head of the gun was just too big. Some of the rivets ended up at an angle and didn't pull down all the way. I ended up cutting the pop rivets back out because I didn't like how they looked and ordered the repair kit. The smash rivets in the kit worked a lot easier and came out tight. On windows like my 78, the seal on the post side doesn't have the bend over tabs like the 80's, they rivet on, and the smash rivets worked MUCH better there. Pop rivets wanted to pull through the seal. You may not have these problems on an 80's window. The 70's windows have to be taken apart. The seal on the curved side slides inside a u-shaped retainer inside the frame, and it is a PAIN. For anyone trying to do a 70's, I found it was easier to start the long side of seal in the short end and push the long side around the curve. Use LOTS of silicone spray lube, inch it up pushing and pulling and eventually you will get it in.

OK, So I got my vent windows out....they were missing a screw at the top of the door just below the window latch there is a access hole.
Both side were missing that screw. I will try to find a replacement. Anyone know if they are a repop item?
2nd question....the inside black vertical strip that the stainless window latch sits on, can those be removed? I have a couple of sets of doors and was wondering if that black strip can be swapped.....

The way their video shows is the hard way. Here is what works WAY easier. This method can be done quicker without the fighting. Drill out the 2 rivets at the top of the frame that holds it together. They are out in the open and super easy to replace. Once that is done, push in the top section, The cut out in the weatherstrip sets the pace and you have NO fighting to get it in the corner like when it is all together. Move down to the bottom working the rubber in and get as much as you can to the curve and around to the end. Place the weatherstrip end into position. This will help push some into the curve. Now, here is the trick. Get yourself an Irwin quick grip clamp. Put a 7/16" nut in the channel and clamp it down in the apex of the curve. This makes it VERY easy to work the edges in with your plastic flat edge tool and it has the force pushing it in. Trust me, try it once and you'll never go back to fighting it. Finish to the end like normal. The Glass cleaner is a lot better to use than oil based stuff as it makes a mess. Glass cleaner just dries away after you are done. You may be able to use a long arm welding clamp but it may bend stuff up more. The quick clamps with the no marring pads with not bend it up. Try this method, you'll like it.

Ken B said:

OK, So I got my vent windows out....they were missing a screw at the top of the door just below the window latch there is a access hole.
Both side were missing that screw. I will try to find a replacement. Anyone know if they are a repop item?
2nd question....the inside black vertical strip that the stainless window latch sits on, can those be removed? I have a couple of sets of doors and was wondering if that black strip can be swapped.....

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Yes you can buy that screw.

Seems like an appropriate place to share vent window challenges and hacks.
@Kevin Foust , the clamp idea sounds great. I didn’t struggle much getting the gaskets in except in the bottom corners and very top. Considered clamping the corners in similar to what you mentioned.
So I finished putting mine back together last night (still need a couple rivets)
Couple things I did. I split my frames apart for re-painting. Didn’t need to. Oops. But I used small machine screws and nuts in place of the top and bottom frame rivets. Loctite on the threads and then cut the extra thread length flush with a wiz wheel. Feels very strong and as competent as the original rivets.
Also I could t get the very top of the window gasket in the channel. I fought it for a while but then disassembled the frame halves (mocked up with the same screws I used for permanent connection). Made it super easy. I was able to stretch the gasket “up” further than it needed to be which allowed the larger end of the rubber gasket to basically slide into place.
Sounds confusing unless you’re looking at it then it will make sense.
I just need to get the right size/length of rivets to put the pivot bracket back on the frame.

With as much access as you have to the top rivets to put new ones in, no reason to fight trying to get that in with it together. I'd lay money the factory riveted them after too. Once I did it that way I wondered whether the weatherstrip manufacturer avoided saying to do that in hopes of people just buying their refurbished ones once they fought trying to do it. LOL I would be interested to know from those who have bought a refurbished set if there are new rivets at the top. Anyone?

Here is a pic of mine after it was all put back in.

New ones from LMC are 199 each and are very good quality

Kevin Foust said:

With as much access as you have to the top rivets to put new ones in, no reason to fight trying to get that in with it together. I'd lay money the factory riveted them after too. Once I did it that way I wondered whether the weatherstrip manufacturer avoided saying to do that in hopes of people just buying their refurbished ones once they fought trying to do it. LOL I would be interested to know from those who have bought a refurbished set if there are new rivets at the top. Anyone?

Here is a pic of mine after it was all put back in.

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Yeah, I felt like having it together made it easier to pry the majority of the gasket in. But I fought the top bit for a while and gave up. But pulling the frames back apart made the top part very easy. Idk if they ever would have gone in with the frame in 1 piece.

86c10twotone said:

New ones from LMC are 199 each and are very good quality

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They've been on backorder nearly 2 years now though...