Rusty floor pans best options

83square · Mar 6, 2022

Pulled my carpet and found some cancer on the passenger side. Driver side looks good. I don’t have a welder nor am I confident enough to start cutting into that. Has anyone had there floor pans replaced professionally? If so how much did it run ya? My rockers and everything else looks great

Rickf · Mar 6, 2022

Looks like there is either a leaking heater core or failed heater box to firewall seal on the passenger side. Rot repairs can be few hundred to several thousands of dollars, depends if you want a show truck or just want to keep your feet dry.

Doppleganger · Mar 6, 2022

Anytime in the past I had similar issues, I was always asked by the shop "are you removing everything and putting it back, or am I?"

You can guess what was by far the cheapest answer. I even supplied the panels and an entire rear floor pan (sedan) cost me $300, but that was 6 yrs ago.

Grit dog · Mar 7, 2022

What’s your end goal? Factory looking new floor pan or make it water tight and not rust anymore?
There isn’t an easier or less visible spot to “learn”. And you’ll be able to buy a cheap welder plus some with what you’ll spend especially Here in the land of too much money to have someone else do them.

First poke around and look underneath. Looks like it’s rust from the inside-out. Likely leaky heater core as mentioned. If the rockers cab corners and drivers floor are solid, it’s not rust from the elements and likely isnt that bad.
If it’s just small areas you could literally fix for the next 35 years of the truck’s life with some rust restorer, seam sealer small patch pieces and some rivets.
Back to the “perfect restoration” vs functional and (hidden).

AuroraGirl · Mar 7, 2022

Grit dog said:
What’s your end goal? Factory looking new floor pan or make it water tight and not rust anymore?
There isn’t an easier or less visible spot to “learn”. And you’ll be able to buy a cheap welder plus some with what you’ll spend especially Here in the land of too much money to have someone else do them.

First poke around and look underneath. Looks like it’s rust from the inside-out. Likely leaky heater core as mentioned. If the rockers cab corners and drivers floor are solid, it’s not rust from the elements and likely isnt that bad.
If it’s just small areas you could literally fix for the next 35 years of the truck’s life with some rust restorer, seam sealer small patch pieces and some rivets.
Back to the “perfect restoration” vs functional and (hidden).

bonus brownie points when using carpet on the inside any "slight deviation" from the oe pan shape or whatever would be undetectable through carpet , vinyl might be noticeable depending on repair

SquareRoot · Mar 7, 2022

Have you considered just letting the rust completely consume them like @AuroraGirl ? Taylor and Fred may be on to something?

My78truck · Mar 7, 2022

83square said:
Pulled my carpet and found some cancer on the passenger side. Driver side looks good. I don’t have a welder nor am I confident enough to start cutting into that. Has anyone had there floor pans replaced professionally? If so how much did it run ya? My rockers and everything else looks great

Ahhhh, when I pulled my carpet I found the same thing. Luckily the floor was still solid. Was definately a cracked heater core. If it were me (all over again), I would get the heater core fixed. It is a painful experience and if you have it done professionally, costly. After getting that fixed then I would worry about the floor. Maybe a friend, or a friend of a friend can help with welding in a new floor. If not, check at a metal fab place and see what they would charge. Like Aurora Girl said, carpet can hide a host of deformities. Definately want to get it fixed though. Good Luck.

jjester6000 · Mar 7, 2022

If I were you, I'd take a cup brush on a grinder, clean up the metal (Both sides), then lay down some POR15. Afterwards, I'd cut out a small piece of 18 gauge steel and rivet it over the hole (Don't use Aluminum rivets). I'd then go back over it with some more POR15 and seal it all in and put the carpet back over.

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Alternatively, you could add a bit of style to your repair by repurposing something like a license plate or road sign.

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pnwnvrdn · Mar 7, 2022

Some good suggestions, as usual.
Something to consider..Mig welders can be bought fairly inexpensively used or even new.
Practice on some scrap metal, and once learned, a skill that can be used for the rest of your life.
Kind of like the old saying:
Give a man a fish, and he can eat for a day..teach the man to fish, and he can eat for a lifetime.

Grit dog · Mar 7, 2022

jjester6000 said:
If I were you, I'd take a cup brush on a grinder, clean up the metal (Both sides), then lay down some POR15. Afterwards, I'd cut out a small piece of 18 gauge steel and rivet it over the hole (Don't use Aluminum rivets). I'd then go back over it with some more POR15 and seal it all in and put the carpet back over.

You must be registered for see images attach

Alternatively, you could add a bit of style to your repair by repurposing something like a license plate or road sign.
You must be registered for see images attach

Must be an IL thing! Used to use license plates as patch panels, to the point that dad would save old license plates for “bodywork”.
Since I left the rust belt, I’ve accumulated a large enough collection to panel a wall with them. And used maybe 1 or 2 to “fix” something with. And it wasn’t rust. They make good covers when you explode a clutch through the belly pan of an old Snomobile!

Soundmound · Mar 7, 2022

I second jjester. I have some rust on my passenger side for the same reason, but it is still very surface level. I am going to POR15 it and then sound deadener, then insulation, then carpet with mass backing. I will be the the only one that knew it existed and if, if it rusts out, then I get to do a full restomod

Now I want to build a survivor/driver and enjoy the truck and not worry about perfection and someone possibly scratching said perfection.

83square · Mar 8, 2022

Dang! I appreciate all the reply’s. I did take a mig welding course years ago, maybe I should put it to use. Here in Seattle we don’t actually get much rust issues so I think it was a leaky heater core. Looks like I will just grind it down and fill that hole and lay some POR15 down.

Randy and Easton · Mar 9, 2022

We had the same issue with his daily driver project and planed on cutting it out at welding new 16 gauge steel (Home Depot) in. Paint schedule caught us and once truck was out of paint I was not going to weld inside the cab with his new exposed paint. We decided to use same HD metal and rivets and secured it. Used NP-1 to seal it top and bottom. Came out great, but again not a show rebuild and a 15 year olds budget!

Randy and Easton · Mar 9, 2022

Few before pictures

da_raabi · Mar 9, 2022

Please keep in mind that it may not be just a heater core causing these rust issues. I also discovered that the firewall leaks where the cowl pinches down and allows water between the layers and down onto the floor. Also watch for the windshield seal. That one likes to leak as it dries out. Pretty much any leak ends up in that same spot on both sides. If you have rust and/or wetness in those corners, check all these areas. I've got a thread around here somewhere on how I sealed the cowl issue once and for all. It's been holding well for over a year.

Rusty floor pans best options

83square

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