Edelbrock 1405 carb running rich

AuroraGirl said:

good god man did you change your filter recently or am i mistaking the color of the element for dirt

also, richer than some dumb kids diesel he made to diesel like an idiot, smoke wise
doesnt beat the one day when I had my ford LTD at school and got on the throttle and the next few seconds caused a cloud of smoke not too far unlike a tire in a fire

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I assumed that his filter was a reusable type filter, maybe not a K&N, or if it is not oiled with the purple K&N oil, but I could be wrong.

@AuroraGirl @SirRobyn0 The air filter is a reusable air filter I believe k&n but not positive, it’s new but it’s old, like probably older than me old. If you think there’s a possibility it’s dirty how would you go about cleaning it? And oiling it apparrntly?

@SirRobyn0 Yes I believe I understand how the metering rods and jets work, and yes I meant base timing ive got no clue why I said mechanical. Is there a way to tell the size of the metering rod/jets? Is there a number stamped in them somewhere? And believe it or not there’s no stickers on the truck anywhere that I’ve found other than one oil change chart in the door that’s faded to mostly white and the meta vin tag by the door striker. There’s nothing in the glove box, which kinda annoys me but oh well, nothing on rad. support. I wanted to check the rpo codes one day to find out the gear ratio and factory color etc of the truck but there’s nothing but acorns in the glove box

iamtherealJayy said:

@AuroraGirl @SirRobyn0 The air filter is a reusable air filter I believe k&n but not positive, it’s new but it’s old, like probably older than me old. If you think there’s a possibility it’s dirty how would you go about cleaning it? And oiling it apparrntly?

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If it's a K&N, it should be red from the filter oil.

Here is the kit. It is good for several cleanings.

I’ll go snap a photo of the box

The truck currently has the S&B* filter, but I’ve got a K&N filter also new that dates 10/31/95 on the box… I told you they were new but old.

I reckon I’m going to look into a fuel pressure regulator since mechanical fuel pumps are notorious for delivering too much pressure, and edelbrock need less pressure. So I’m assuming the pressure is overcoming the needle and seat and flooding the carb with too much fuel. I’ve got $50 worth of parts added in my cart, a holley regulator, a 3/8 npt plug, and two 3/8 not to barb fittings. Are there any other good regulators I should look at? I don’t want to spend $100 but I also don’t want Chinese garbage that’s going to burn the truck to the ground. Fuel isn’t something I want to cheap out on but still don’t want to spend a ton of money on it since the truck is what it is. It’s just a beater.

iamtherealJayy said:

I reckon I’m going to look into a fuel pressure regulator since mechanical fuel pumps are notorious for delivering too much pressure, and edelbrock need less pressure. So I’m assuming the pressure is overcoming the needle and seat and flooding the carb with too much fuel. I’ve got $50 worth of parts added in my cart, a holley regulator, a 3/8 npt plug, and two 3/8 not to barb fittings. Are there any other good regulators I should look at? I don’t want to spend $100 but I also don’t want Chinese garbage that’s going to burn the truck to the ground. Fuel isn’t something I want to cheap out on but still don’t want to spend a ton of money on it since the truck is what it is. It’s just a beater.

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I'd say you aren't flooding it by blowing past the seat because it will die when you close off the idle mixture screws. The reason it will run pig rich if it has too much pressure is because it will overflow and dump fuel outside that idle circuit. If you are going to spend $100, buy the carb tuning kit and go to town on it. Pull the cover and check the jet sizes and actually adjust them to lean it out. The video you posted sounded like his motor is definitely not a stock beater 350. Sounded lumpy at idle and higher compression at least. As others have said, the 1405 is known to be pretty rich straight out of the box. I'd see what you have now and go at least two steps leaner. Then re-evaluate.

Can you explain the two steps down? I’m looking at the chart of rods/jets and which combo should I go to? Would #24 be the correct choice? I’m going to get a calibration kit to lean it some but I don’t quite understand two steps leaner, if you read 24 is a rod and jet change, is that just the primary jets that are changing? Is it obvious to tell what size the jets/rods are?

iamtherealJayy said:

Can you explain the two steps down? I’m looking at the chart of rods/jets and which combo should I go to? Would #24 be the correct choice? I’m going to get a calibration kit to lean it some but I don’t quite understand two steps leaner, if you read 24 is a rod and jet change, is that just the primary jets that are changing? Is it obvious to tell what size the jets/rods are?

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Yes, 24 would be going 2 steps leaner in both cruise and full throttle. Going to #25 would be going 2 steps leaner in cruise and staying close to factory in full throttle. You'll notice that is changing just the rod and not the jet. Changing both will make it leaner all the way around. The table directly below that one shows what to do to change the secondary jets. Its hard to tell with any clarity how much leaner you need to be and whether just the primary or primary and secondary changes are needed without an AFR gauge. I would bet that you can go two steps leaner on everything though and see a big improvement. That would mean you change the secondary jets to #1424 and change the Primary to the ones listed under #24. All of that should be in the calibration kit. Primary jets affect the amount of fuel everywhere. Rods affect fuel at idle and part throttle. Secondary jets affect fuel only at the top end. So by changing everything to two steps leaner, you will take a lot of fuel out of the engine everywhere.

Are the jets/rods obvious what size they are? So I can see what size current ones are? And know what size I’m putting in? I’m going to start with a calibration kit and timing and see where that puts me.

@iamtherealJayy The jets will have numbers stamped on them on the top next to the slot. The metering rods are stamped to, but I do not remember off hand where, you'll have to look for it, but they are stamped.

I don't think your blowing past the seat either, so a regulator in your case is probably not a requirement, but it is a good idea.

Calibration kit on the way! Is it easier to do the swap off vehicle or can I change it on the vehicle? I know metering rods and springs can be changed but jets I figure I’m going to have to take top plate off

iamtherealJayy said:

Calibration kit on the way! Is it easier to do the swap off vehicle or can I change it on the vehicle? I know metering rods and springs can be changed but jets I figure I’m going to have to take top plate off

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You can swap that stuff on the truck no problem. You can remove the carb top with it on the truck, but for you for the first time I'd recommend removing the carb from the truck. The reason being is it'll be easier for you to see inside the carb, how it comes apart and if you find sediment in the bowl it'll be easier to clean out off the truck. Either way is fine though really I'd say it's up to you.

My biggest problem is small pieces, I don’t want to drop something down the intake. If all the small pieces are on the outside I’ll do it on the truck, if the jets aren’t the only thing inside carb I have to touch than I’ll take it off.