'Puff' on start up! valve seals need replacing....

I dont' think I've ever seen umbrella seals on a small block, only big blocks.

I know several builders that put NO valve guide seals on the exhaust side and lock-down seals on intake of big blocks. There's no "sucking" on the exhaust side like there is on intake and if that exhaust side gets too tight, the piston will tag a valve that isn't out of the way when the piston hits TDC.
I don't know any that leave small blocks bare, everybody I know uses Viton lock-downs on both intake and exhaust.

Salty Crusty said:

I dont' think I've ever seen umbrella seals on a small block, only big blocks.

I know several builders that put NO valve guide seals on the exhaust side and lock-down seals on intake of big blocks. There's no "sucking" on the exhaust side like there is on intake and if that exhaust side gets too tight, the piston will tag a valve that isn't out of the way when the piston hits TDC.
I don't know any that leave small blocks bare, everybody I know uses Viton lock-downs on both intake and exhaust.

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I had the machine shop use positive valve seals on my sbc.Umbrella seals can be used and are better than o ring type.Positives are better I was told.As they are attached to the valve boss and sqeegee the oil and control amount of it as the others deflect the oil away from the guide as a control. And positives tend to last longer.The ol geezer at the local machine shop said he does use umbrella on sbc but usually when the customer requests it.I believe they were viton.

Dang good stuff!
And btw, its getting worse. Now its when it sits 4hrs. Or more.

@Maxwellvis just yesterday changed out all the seals on our Suburban.
It took him a while to do, but hopefully it helps lower our emissions so we can pass DEQ.

The Proform compressor tool that I linked earlier worked like a champ.

Hey guys - the smoke is getting worse - Im sure the heads will need to come off — question - my truck runs good - its got 161k miles -

thing is...I'd hate to pull heads off - AND after I do that - sooner than later -

get a knock - loose compression - oil pressure - bearing etc etc etc -

Should I simply pull engine and do a full swap? go back stock - LS swap - I can come up with the cash for any of it. that's not really an issue.

I could do this myself - BUT, I don't have the time- Im getting older - I like my spare time 'cause I aint got much.

I got someone that can do a JASPER 350 long block swap (I like keeping it stock) - But,

I don't really know anyone in my area that can do a LS swap - In reality and for ease of everyday driving, that, seems really reliable.

- I want the truck as a daily driver - not hot rod - no lift just a good old truck - know what I mean?? I want more than anything reliability. AC heat and 4wd when I need it.

what to do?

Anyone know anyone in the ATLANTA area that comes recommended?

My s10 does this, sits all night and blows a huge puff on start. Goes away and then comes back in a mile or 2, smokes for a mile then stops. Now its pretty much every time ya start it blows a big puff. Im not really too worried as i paid 400 for the truck from the scrap yard lol its odd that my truck is doing it at about the same mileage as yours at 166k. Ive heard that valve seals are easy to do in the truck with an adapter and compressed air.