What have you done to your square lately??

Vbb199 said:

Just a k5 now

Axles, wheels, tires, lift, and everything else being sold tomorrow.

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You should make this a 2wd terror.
No new truck needed.

Just put the big block back into it with all the needs for 2wd.
I think.
I think you have the know how to make it happen.

Junior is pushing to change the peanut port heads that are on the truck currently to a set of L-29 Vortec heads that we have pulled from the junkyard (not off the complete engine I have).

So seeing as he works the counter at the local speed parts store, he looked them up and ordered a set that the internets stated that we needed to put the Gen6 heads on the Gen4 block.

Pricey little devils that is for sure.
Even with his discount they were around $46 each.

SirRobyn0 said:

Thanks for the tip, I will get in touch with them for future work. We do quite a bit of older rigs at the shop and could really use place like that from time to time. There use to be a shop in Woodinville called, Woodinville Auto electric. One of his last Alternators is in my 77 Cadillac, he had a great operation back in the day.

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After my last round of 4 pos alternators in a row (for the same vehicle) from Napa, our son’s Mustang with only 50kmiles had a bad diode. Car is cherry and I knew whatever reman alt I got would be worse than what I had.
He pulled it and took it down there. Guy was nice enough to rebuild it while he waited. $125 including a new rectifier, which most remans are only “tested good” not new rectifier.

Another tip since you’re in the biz, that took me a while to diagnose. Thank you forums or I’d have never figured it out!
Car was throwing a cam sensor code. And randomly run like schitt. 4.6 Triton motor.
Replaced sensor on bank throwing code. Didn’t help. Replaced other one just because maybe we don’t know left from right, lol. Didn’t help.
Ford forum diagnosed frequency put out by failing rectifier would cause random malfunction of reading cam sensor and throw cam sensor code.
So new alternator = fixed cam sensor code. Never would have ever figured that out on my own!

@Vbb199, looks like a solid body. Also looks like folks are proud of their moss covered junk where you live too.
Short boxes fetch more $ I get it, but I’d think you could get him down from that price.
But red n white 2 tone. White roof white center stripe!
As cool as a short box is, you’re making a tire shredder out of it, long bed trucks aren’t near as likely to swap ends when you mash the skinny pedal at highway speeds and start boiling tires!

But I’d want a short box for a hot rod as well.
Got my eye on one that isn’t going anywhere. But nfw I’m bringing it home until the Freedom Wagon is blue again!

Catbox said:

Junior is pushing to change the peanut port heads that are on the truck currently to a set of L-29 Vortec heads that we have pulled from the junkyard (not off the complete engine I have).

So seeing as he works the counter at the local speed parts store, he looked them up and ordered a set that the internets stated that we needed to put the Gen6 heads on the Gen4 block.

Pricey little devils that is for sure.
Even with his discount they were around $46 each.

You must be registered for see images attach

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Nice! The only issue with the L-29 is the lack of a exhaust crossover that will make it a little more cold blooded with a carb setup. Since we don't really get cold enough for it to be a huge problem here, it will probably be fine... Grit Dog has a whole L-29 with a carb and it seems to work fine even up in the mountains like he is. What heads do you guys have on there now? Most of the older 454 heads are about a 120cc chamber and the L-29's measure in at around 99cc, so you should get a nice little bump in compression too. Do you already have a cam in it? Don't forget you'll need to convert the heads to adjustable valve train, you can probably just get the ARP 135-7102 kit and reuse the L29 guide plates and use your original Mark IV rockers and locknuts. If you didn't get the Gen VI pushrods from the junkyard when you got the heads, you'll need some of those too, since they are 5/16" instead of the regular BBC 3/8" pushrods. You can't use the Mark IV guideplates and pushrods already in the engine you have, because the holes are too big to align right with the ARP stud adapter kit.

Grit dog said:

@Vbb199, looks like a solid body. Also looks like folks are proud of their moss covered junk where you live too.
Short boxes fetch more $ I get it, but I’d think you could get him down from that price.
But red n white 2 tone. White roof white center stripe!
As cool as a short box is, you’re making a tire shredder out of it, long bed trucks aren’t near as likely to swap ends when you mash the skinny pedal at highway speeds and start boiling tires!

But I’d want a short box for a hot rod as well.
Got my eye on one that isn’t going anywhere. But nfw I’m bringing it home until the Freedom Wagon is blue again!

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2800 is cheap for a truck in that shape lol (at least here)

Vbb199 said:

2800 is cheap for a truck in that shape lol (at least here)

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At that price, it would be theft in Ohio.

Vbb199 said:

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That looks like it has been rode pretty hard in it's lifetime... I might have asked for $500 for not being able to at least wipe it down before selling it lol

Finally got the correct rim so I can have all 4 of my dog dishes on. It just looked stupid with only 3. Between deer and turkey season I have been procrastinating..

Grit dog said:

After my last round of 4 pos alternators in a row (for the same vehicle) from Napa, our son’s Mustang with only 50kmiles had a bad diode. Car is cherry and I knew whatever reman alt I got would be worse than what I had.
He pulled it and took it down there. Guy was nice enough to rebuild it while he waited. $125 including a new rectifier, which most remans are only “tested good” not new rectifier.

Another tip since you’re in the biz, that took me a while to diagnose. Thank you forums or I’d have never figured it out!
Car was throwing a cam sensor code. And randomly run like schitt. 4.6 Triton motor.
Replaced sensor on bank throwing code. Didn’t help. Replaced other one just because maybe we don’t know left from right, lol. Didn’t help.
Ford forum diagnosed frequency put out by failing rectifier would cause random malfunction of reading cam sensor and throw cam sensor code.
So new alternator = fixed cam sensor code. Never would have ever figured that out on my own!

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I've not run into that one on the Triton but you never know when we might see something like that I appreciate the tip.

TX87R10 said:

That looks like it has been rode pretty hard in it's lifetime... I might have asked for $500 for not being able to at least wipe it down before selling it lol

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Its just what i want... a dirty, dusty, ran down truck... just need to go buy cutouts so i can hide the sound of the motor thats going in it.

Bextreme04 said:

Nice! The only issue with the L-29 is the lack of a exhaust crossover that will make it a little more cold blooded with a carb setup.

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My old Nova didn't have a choke on it, nor does my VW with dual carbs.
They just required a bit more warm up time or just taking it easy for a bit to make sure things are ready to go before mashing the pedal.

Bextreme04 said:

What heads do you guys have on there now? Most of the older 454 heads are about a 120cc chamber and the L-29's measure in at around 99cc, so you should get a nice little bump in compression too.

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Yes.
9 to 1 sounds about right.
It should put a little pep in its step.
As well as a bit more crisp of an exhaust note.

Bextreme04 said:

Do you already have a cam in it?

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Hahahhaaa.
The engine rebuild receipt shows "RV Cam"
So whatever that means.
I am sure it is just a step up from the stock cam.
Probably in the very low 200's for the duration....

Bextreme04 said:

Don't forget you'll need to convert the heads to adjustable valve train, you can probably just get the ARP 135-7102 kit and reuse the L29 guide plates and use your original Mark IV rockers and locknuts. If you didn't get the Gen VI pushrods from the junkyard when you got the heads, you'll need some of those too, since they are 5/16" instead of the regular BBC 3/8" pushrods. You can't use the Mark IV guideplates and pushrods already in the engine you have, because the holes are too big to align right with the ARP stud adapter kit.

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I have a habit of taking everything that unbolts from the engine when I pull stuff from the junkyard.
All the nuts and bolts come home.
I do believe that I have all the pushrods and related hardware that came from the engine the heads came off of.
I also pulled all the valve train gizmos off the last MarkIV we removed stuff from.
So I have all the rockers, pushrods, and other goodies from it too.

Rebuilt the ole Holley, lowered the front end back to stock height. I had a clearance issue with headers. I like a little rake.