What have you done to your square lately??

Doppleganger · Mar 24, 2021

82sbshortbed said:
I'm in the middle of redoing my whole brake system too. New prop valve came in the other day and the rest of my **** should be there today.

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I got mine on feebay - someone in Jordan was selling old stock US military surplus. Was north of $120. He had 2 and I tried to get the other one but didn't have the coin....dammit.

On the side of the prop valve is stamped (spelled out too) "Made in Detroit, Michigan, United States of America".

Fking A. :hat:

RedBeard_83 · Mar 24, 2021

Bextreme04 said:
My 1980 has J-hook style arms. I have an extra set just sitting around if you want them

Pm sent .

Jwernatl · Mar 24, 2021

just_some_guy said:
I put a new grille (with new emblem and spacers) and headlight bezels on last night. The new grille really brings out the ****** paint job on there right now. Also put on an air deflector and a cheesy rat rod pineapple hand grenade shifter knob for the transfer case.

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I like thos COOPER AT3's (I can see in -the picture) - I just put set on mine, so far pretty darn good tires! on top of that thought-- Heck I might even try and find me one of those "cheesy rat rod pineapple hand grenade shifter knob" thingy's for my 4wd shifter handles.

TotalyHucked · Mar 24, 2021

Started tracing the wiring to the fuel pump. Got the exhaust done last Wednesday and dropped it at the tuner’s. Fuel pump was dead. Swap in a new one, truck runs Thursday night and Friday afternoon. Swap in a dead injector, go to fire it and pump is dead again.

So I brought it to work and put it in the air. Dropped the tank, reconnected the lines and made up a temporary ground (original one wasn’t long enough to reach the tank on the floor). Had my buddy turn the key while I probed the wiring at the pump end (Gen4, it only pulses the pump for 2 seconds, if it doesn’t see ignition cranking, it stops the pump). Only got 10.3v and no pump.

He went back inside, I start probing the backside of the relay in the PSI fuse block. Go to turn the key and hear the fuel pump kick on. Wtf? Wait 30sec (gen4 problems again), turn the key, pump powers up. I swap in a Bosch relay in place of the Ching Chong ones that come with the PSI. Recheck voltage at the pump, 10.8v this time.

Still got too much voltage drop. I’ve got 14ga wire, which in theory should be ok, though a tad small. I think I’m gonna rewire with 10ga from the power block under the hood to a weatherproof relay near the tank and use the PSI wiring to trigger the new relay. I’ll bypass the relay at the fuse block if need be, just have straight signal.

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Powerhouse Ranch · Mar 24, 2021

CoggedBelt75 said:
Well, my filter project has been nothing but a circus since I received them. A quick run down...Even tho they claim a complete kit, there were no threaded rods or nuts to secure them. Found some stainless all thread in Lawton last weekend. Ordered some chrome, knurled nuts from Amazon same weekend. Supposed to arrive Tuesday.

The night I got the filters , it was late and wanted to see how they looked on it so just set them in place. Because of the way the hood opens, and the way it was cut for the old bug catcher, the rear stack needed raised. Had some el cheapo air cleaner spacers to play with to get the height needed. Needed 2” to make it work, so started looking for aluminum spacers. 2” for the rear, 1 1/2” for the front.

Tuesday comes and goes with no nuts. Thursday Amazon thinks it’s lost in the mail. Duh!! Friday they said it is. Reordered and they changed the shipping method. Said will be here this Tuesday. Still looking for spacers anyways.

Today was wet so we got off for the day. 1st time I actually got to focus on this fresh and more observant as to what was going on. Pulled the shotgun scoop back off for the hundredth time to play with the spacers again. What I failed to see before was that even tho they were close together, there was a reason. The plastic spacers are flimsy and didn’t fit the base of the stacks at all. Everything was cockeyed. Rigid aluminum would have straightened them up were they obviously (now) will not work. Got a hold of K&N and confirmed it. They need 9 1/4” centerline to centerline on the filter studs. I have 8 1/2”. Was fixing to order the spacers too.

But the nuts showed up. This is usually the story of my life. A really stupid move on my part for not paying attention to detail. So I reckon the scoop stays on. But I’m thinking 2” spacers to bring it up

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6 ton jackstands! wow, i use 3 tons for my Square and i'm probably gonna get killed XD

Bextreme04 · Mar 24, 2021

TotalyHucked said:
Started tracing the wiring to the fuel pump. Got the exhaust done last Wednesday and dropped it at the tuner’s. Fuel pump was dead. Swap in a new one, truck runs Thursday night and Friday afternoon. Swap in a dead injector, go to fire it and pump is dead again.

So I brought it to work and put it in the air. Dropped the tank, reconnected the lines and made up a temporary ground (original one wasn’t long enough to reach the tank on the floor). Had my buddy turn the key while I probed the wiring at the pump end (Gen4, it only pulses the pump for 2 seconds, if it doesn’t see ignition cranking, it stops the pump). Only got 10.3v and no pump.

He went back inside, I start probing the backside of the relay in the PSI fuse block. Go to turn the key and hear the fuel pump kick on. Wtf? Wait 30sec (gen4 problems again), turn the key, pump powers up. I swap in a Bosch relay in place of the Ching Chong ones that come with the PSI. Recheck voltage at the pump, 10.8v this time.

Still got too much voltage drop. I’ve got 14ga wire, which in theory should be ok, though a tad small. I think I’m gonna rewire with 10ga from the power block under the hood to a weatherproof relay near the tank and use the PSI wiring to trigger the new relay. I’ll bypass the relay at the fuse block if need be, just have straight signal.

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It sounds almost like you have a bad connection in the fuse block or a bad ground connection. Did you try testing voltage drop from the battery to the pump and then from the relay to the pump? 14ga is a little small but you still shouldn't have that much drop from a 10-12ft run. Check your continuity on the ground and also the drop on the ground line back to the battery.

Bextreme04 · Mar 24, 2021

here's a good resource that describes in pretty good detail what I mean by check the voltage drop on the ground AND the feed. You need to test with the circuit energized also... in case you weren't aware.

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting

RedBeard_83 · Mar 24, 2021

@Bextreme04 . sent you a pm about the wiper arms you have .

Slow build jim · Mar 24, 2021

Just starting on my custom graphics grill artwork.

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79K15 HIghSierra · Mar 24, 2021

Curious what y’all’s thought will be on this. Due to my own poor planning I was running out of gas, on fumes basically. The only gas station around didn’t have ethanol free which is what I’ve always been told to run in carbureted vehicles. I fill her up on regular, about half a tank. Next day it starts acting a bit different...sputtering a little, exhausting popping when slowing down in gear, idling was off, little fast then little slow, general misbehaving. The timing and carb were dialed in like 2 months ago. Been running like a sewing machine since then, I’ve been driving daily. Just cheap gas? Should I siphon out what’s left and run some sort of cleaner?

Bextreme04 · Mar 24, 2021

RedBeard_83 said:
@Bextreme04 . sent you a pm about the wiper arms you have .

I replied... basically i'm a stupid and I don't have the j-hook wiper arms

Bextreme04 · Mar 24, 2021

79K15 HIghSierra said:
Curious what y’all’s thought will be on this. Due to my own poor planning I was running out of gas, on fumes basically. The only gas station around didn’t have ethanol free which is what I’ve always been told to run in carbureted vehicles. I fill her up on regular, about half a tank. Next day it starts acting a bit different...sputtering a little, exhausting popping when slowing down in gear, idling was off, little fast then little slow, general misbehaving. The timing and carb were dialed in like 2 months ago. Been running like a sewing machine since then, I’ve been driving daily. Just cheap gas? Should I siphon out what’s left and run some sort of cleaner?

If you have modern rubber fuel hose and the carb has been rebuilt any time in the last 10-15 years you shouldn't have any issue running gas with ethanol in it. Around here the only ethanol free fuel we can get is premium 93 octane. I never run it in my truck, it always gets 87 octane regular ethanol content fuel as I know I've replaced all the fuel components with newer rubber stuff that is designed to be ok with ethanol contact. You are more likely to have sucked some junk onto the sock filter on the pickup due to running it so low and now have a restriction in the pickup. Although the ideal AFR for ethanol free gas and 10% ethanol gas is different.. .so you might be noticing a difference in running if you REALLY had the engine dialed in for the ethanol free premium.

RedBeard_83 · Mar 24, 2021

79K15 HIghSierra said:
Curious what y’all’s thought will be on this. Due to my own poor planning I was running out of gas, on fumes basically. The only gas station around didn’t have ethanol free which is what I’ve always been told to run in carbureted vehicles. I fill her up on regular, about half a tank. Next day it starts acting a bit different...sputtering a little, exhausting popping when slowing down in gear, idling was off, little fast then little slow, general misbehaving. The timing and carb were dialed in like 2 months ago. Been running like a sewing machine since then, I’ve been driving daily. Just cheap gas? Should I siphon out what’s left and run some sort of cleaner?

I don't run ethanol free in my square . however I run premium in my softail and add an additive to my fuel called "startron " I believe . It cuts down the ethanol significantly and is sold at most auto parts stores . may have to start using it in my square. Haven't had any of the issues you have mentioned but the ethanol can't be good for it .

TotalyHucked · Mar 24, 2021

Bextreme04 said:
here's a good resource that describes in pretty good detail what I mean by check the voltage drop on the ground AND the feed. You need to test with the circuit energized also... in case you weren't aware.

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting

That’s exactly the plan tomorrow. Gotta get an extra set of hands and make me some longer alligator clip leads

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Bextreme04 · Mar 24, 2021

RedBeard_83 said:
I don't run ethanol free in my square . however I run premium in my softail and add an additive to my fuel called "startron " I believe . It cuts down the ethanol significantly and is sold at most auto parts stores . may have to start using it in my square. Haven't had any of the issues you have mentioned but the ethanol can't be good for it .

Startron does not "cut down on the ethanol", it keeps the fuel from separating and also keep the water that is often attracted to ethanol from pooling in the fuel. Never use an ethanol blend fuel in something that will be around water or that will be stored with fuel in it for any long period of time without using something like stabil or startran. I dont get more than a week or two out of a tank of gas anyways, so I dont worry about using ethanol free in any of my vehicles. Backup generator and all the household small engines(riding mower, weed eater, etc..) get ethanol free premium.

What have you done to your square lately??

Doppleganger

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