Buying Advice

Yes for me. Good price and its blue!

From Texas

TX87R10 said:

I would pay $2500 for that in a heart beat provided no structural issues

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Same

It would be good to take someone with you and turn the steering wheel.Someone mentioned the frame around the steering box.If it was turned lock to lock under load,there will be cracks for sure.You Should be able to see it flex with a flashlight.

That’s not a deal breaker but maybe 500$ off.IDK.I do know I hate rust.

Obviously check all the normal stuff that is not brand specific, runs, drives, clutch and brakes all work, not leaking like a sieve etc. Plowing, especially commercially, is hard on a vehicle as evidenced by broken leaf spring and expect that the steering and front axle hubs and bearings could all need replaced.
Rust doesn’t look “too” bad. But the repaint could be hiding a lot of bondo. May still make a good plow truck but might not be the resto project you’re hoping for.
Contrary to what you heard, manual trans IMO, is not preferable for plowing. Fine for a long driveway or 2, and some little work, but a pain in the ___and hard on clutch for commercial work or plowing parking lots or lots of driveways.
I wouldn’t turn down a manual for plowing out my driveway but I wouldn’t even consider one that I was sitting in all day or night plowing driveways and parking lots.

Back to the truck, if it runs and drives and doesn’t appear to need major surgery or excessive work and $ AND the plow works as it should, it’s a bargain at $2500. Good working commercial grade plow setup is worth most of that money and the truck is basically free or vice versa.
However whomever is selling that probably also knows that so compare the cost to the amount of work required on it.
Also knowing that super cheap plow trucks that actually work aren’t dime a dozen.
Also yesterday was Turkey Day, so consider if you can make it operational in short order, as the best plow truck is the one that keeps your from shoveling snow this winter, not sitting in your garage on jack stands with its guts on the floor.
Good luck!

As much as I’ve heard about steering box cracking the frame and believe it, my experience with a fleet of plow/landscaping trucks of 70s/80s vintage, including several square body trucks, 30 years ago, lol, I don’t recall ever having to fix or reinforce the frames at the steering box.
Either way, you do want to have someone turn the wheels while you observe all the steering components to see how much play is in them.

Thanks guys alot of great info here, I really appreciate it! The early Bronco frame has also been known to crack at the PS box mount. I would only be using this truck to plow my driveway, which is gravel and about 1/3 mile long.

I did not go see it yesterday because it dawned on me it may not fit on my trailer. My 66 Bronco barely squeezes between the wheel wells of the trailer (71.5" more of a skid steer trailer) so at the last minute I called the mechanic for a measurement and he said it's about 76" wide. So I may go up Monday and get a Uhaul trailer, it's a couple hour drive.

I did talk to the mechanic though. He said the plow has been on it since Day 1 and all the old-timers that work there say it's an outstanding plow truck. He said the frame is good and the left rear spring is the one that's broken. The passenger side exhaust manifold has rusted off where it meets the pipe so would not hold a donut gasket...not sure it the pipe or manifold is rusted, he just said it's loud so be prepared. He said the gas tank was replaced with a new one but it will stop running when it gets down to about 3/4 tank. A fuel line run to a 5 gallon tank in the bed the truck runs fine, so he thinks it something to do with the pickup in the tank.

It was at this point where the boss said to spend no more time and money on the truck and to sell it. He would not even let them drive it the 12 miles back to the main business location, and to sell it.

He said he was being completely honest with me because of the distance I was travelling. They've been in business for 70 years so both the guys I've talked to sound totally honest and legit, and are willing to hold the truck until I get to see it.

Thanks again you guys I think I'm really going to like this forum. Hope to become a square body-owning member very soon!

PlowTruck said:

Yes the 4spd is a big plus with me as well! Not to mention I've heard a manual is better for plowing...seems logical but I've never plowed with a truck.

Dave is that for plowing sidewalks??

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The manual is not better if you have a strong auto set up and a good cooler. You can get in and out of reverse much quicker but you can also overheat the auto.

Grit dog said:

As much as I’ve heard about steering box cracking the frame and believe it, my experience with a fleet of plow/landscaping trucks of 70s/80s vintage, including several square body trucks, 30 years ago, lol, I don’t recall ever having to fix or reinforce the frames at the steering box.
Either way, you do want to have someone turn the wheels while you observe all the steering components to see how much play is in them.

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This issue is mostly prevalent with lifted trucks/large tires that have been wheeled hard.

Welcome from Mass, hope you have good luck with the truck.

Sounds like a good price. Looks like an older Meyers plow, probably a 7 1/2', same as I have on my truck. Pretty good old plow, parts are easy to find for them. Be sure to check all of the mounting bolts on the plow frame and make sure that they are secure, I've had some come loose and/or break over the years, mostly where the front section that holds the pump/lift attaches to the side plates that go to the frame.

SDJunkMan said:

Sounds like a good price. Looks like an older Meyers plow, probably a 7 1/2', same as I have on my truck. Pretty good old plow, parts are easy to find for them. Be sure to check all of the mounting bolts on the plow frame and make sure that they are secure, I've had some come loose and/or break over the years, mostly where the front section that holds the pump/lift attaches to the side plates that go to the frame.

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Thanks, he also said the plow worked, but sometimes one of the solenoids would not work, but you give it a whack and it would work again

Welcome

PlowTruck said:

Thanks, he also said the plow worked, but sometimes one of the solenoids would not work, but you give it a whack and it would work again

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I have had to replace the magnetic coil that operates my lift solenoid a couple of times due to wiring issues. I have an angling solenoid out right now, but since I usually plow with the blade angled the same way, I just disconnect the hoses from the pump to the angling cylinders and pin it.