Steering Box Question - 2wd to 4wd conversion r3500 Crew Cab

shiftpro said:

Don't feel bad... I'm a little confused too. The truck your working on is a 2x crew cab? You want to convert this to 4x4? Then yeah you better
phone ORD tomorrow morning and cancel the order bro.

ORD has a bracket kit to run 52s... but I think the DIY kit is much better. It has more adjustment and they have been doing this mod for a long time. The ORD bracket is a new part as far as I know.

To be honest, this conversion (with DYI kit) is a bot of a bitch for first timers. You might want to completely rethink things here. Perhaps find a beat crew cab 4x4 which are one tons with a D60 up front.

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I based several of my decisions on videos like these:

Part 1:


Part 2:


Part 3:



I will report back any issues that I come across with the parts that are on the way here from ORD (I did order their 2wd to 4wd front spring hangers). Welding, cutting, and fabricating are all fine by me if necessary. I am capable of handling most anything in that arena. I've learned a lot in my 45 years on this earth...

Thanks again...

gotyourgoat said:

Lost me at 2wd to 4wd.

Are there kits available to go in the other direction?

Been sort of interested in a few trucks but they were 4wd which I'm not interested in and am unsure what all would be required to convert to 2wd.

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Disconnect the front driveshaft

shiftpro said:

Ok so you can't convert these to cross over steering. Also a heads up on the D44 front end regarding cross over steer... only the
older 44s from the mid 70's had the flat spot on the passenger knuckle. The newer, latest before the 10 bolt showed, did not have the
flat spot (needed to bolt down the steering arm.

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If you order the Reid Racing knuckles (they only come in orange power coat) then you can convert D44 or the GM corporate to crossover. But the knuckles cost $250 or so each. And I had to replace both sides on mine (D44)- as the tie rod drops down from up top instead of from underneath. This does move the tie rod upwards and more out of the way.

And with the Reid knuckles you need to grind down their cast steering stops a bit. They have some extra long ones cast in both front and rear of the axle tube. I just did this a few weeks ago to get full steering back. Make sure you don't grind too much or your axle ujoints will bind.

Skyfall said:

Yes.

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Oh sweet!

Frankenchevy said:

Disconnect the front driveshaft

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Sure, but the part I don't care for on 4wds isn't the front wheels being powered it is the solid front axle and leaf spring suspension.

77 K20 said:

If you order the Reid Racing knuckles (they only come in orange power coat) then you can convert D44 or the GM corporate to crossover. But the knuckles cost $250 or so each. And I had to replace both sides on mine (D44)- as the tie rod drops down from up top instead of from underneath. This does move the tie rod upwards and more out of the way.

And with the Reid knuckles you need to grind down their cast steering stops a bit. They have some extra long ones cast in both front and rear of the axle tube. I just did this a few weeks ago to get full steering back. Make sure you don't grind too much or your axle ujoints will bind.

You must be registered for see images attach

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ORD offers a machining service for those with a Dana 44 for $75. In my case, I'd have to go your route for cross-over steering.
https://www.offroaddesign.com/labor-to-machine-d44-rh-knuckle.html

Skyfall said:

Thanks for the information. I placed a huge order from ORD for the front end parts a couple of days ago. Just to make sure I am clear:

If I use 5" rear blocks and 6" front springs, I will also need the rear spring hangers from ORD or my truck is going to have a serious squat. Is that correct?

Thanks~!

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Sorry I've been out of town. My guess you will have some squat to the rear. When my K30 was stock, it sat about an inch higher in the rear. You may be an inch or so low in the rear with the 5" block.

The one issue I see if you purchase rear lift springs without swapping the rear spring hangers or using the ORD reverse shackle kit and front hangers is you will need an 8" lift spring to match your 6" front. My concern would be you have so much arch to the spring the truck will ride a lot stiffer than it does now.

Craig is an excellent member and very knowledgeable. Not a bad idea to heed his advice.

@Rusty Nail thanks. It helps having had 8 square bodies and a slew of other GM trucks over the past 31 years. I'm kinda OCD about useless car facts too.

only 8? shoot about three times thhat many since about 1997 here.. hmm... i had 8 probly before year 2000 came along.. plus bilions of all different other kinds of vehicles hmm.. literally dragged home aything and everythig i could possibly get my hand on.. could drive diff truck t work every singe day for a couple weeks at a time.. hmm.. back then titles and regs was cheap. 13 and 48 now its 301 each to get one titled and legal... hmm.. so them days are over... most have been scrapped junked due to this..


and the steering boxes are all totally same except for diameter of the pitman arm shaft.. you can quickly easily swap the shaft from one to another. 4x2 to 4x4 one and other way around..

Craig 85 said:

Sorry I've been out of town. My guess you will have some squat to the rear. When my K30 was stock, it sat about an inch higher in the rear. You may be an inch or so low in the rear with the 5" block.

The one issue I see if you purchase rear lift springs without swapping the rear spring hangers or using the ORD reverse shackle kit and front hangers is you will need an 8" lift spring to match your 6" front. My concern would be you have so much arch to the spring the truck will ride a lot stiffer than it does now.

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Thanks for the information. I am just waiting for the parts to arrive at this point (ORD has bushings on back order that are in the spring hangers, but the cross member will be here Monday...I may go ahead and remove the front suspension and install the cross member). I am planning on documenting all of this on my personal website. I know there is a build section here, but I am going to put it somewhere that I can ensure that it stays no matter what. Perhaps I could post in both places for the benefit of others who want to perform this swap. I have noticed LOTS of different opinions about what does and doesn't work across several different websites in regards to a 2wd to 4wd swap. I want to create a source of information, with pictures, from someone who has completed this work along with all of the pitfalls, struggles, and success.

I can't wait to have a functioning 1-ton square body 4x4...!