engine oil

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jake wells

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pretty sure supertech is quaker state, farm and fleet brand is citgo, etc. Additive packages may differ, tho. Any oil that meets SG or SE im sure technically will work for your truck :)
i was gonna try using some synthetic blend 0w-30 or 0w-40 for my oil change here soon.. its getting cold.
Supertech oil is blended and packaged by Warren Distribution Inc in Omaha Nebraska and has been for better than 10 years.
 

jake wells

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here is a oil analysis of valvoline vr1 10w30 and rotella and it shows rotella has more zinc than vr1.
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Here is a analysis of rotella t5 ck4 15w40
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wingman50

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Using Amazon Basic 5W30 conventional oil and Rislone ZDDP Zinc additive.

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HotRodPC

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Using Amazon Basic 5W30 conventional oil and Rislone ZDDP Zinc additive.

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You do this for every oil change no matter the mileage? Obviously it can't hurt, and I can see using it for the first 10,000 miles or so, but after that it's probably not doing any good. :shrug:
 

Doppleganger

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I had a car once the guy dropped a new motor into and promptly used 100% full synthetic. It would burn a quart every 80-100 miles. When we pulled it apart, the cylinders looked like mirror chrome bumpers.

Not sure what the 'proper' sequence is with SBCs, but when I had newly machined/rebuilt 4cyl / turbos we used a basic Castrol dino oil for 100 miles, then drained and swapped it for another round of castrol dino for 600-1000 miles, then drained it and went synthetic - mostly to avoid coking in the turbos.
 

peats

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if you are not adding zink additive to a flat tappet motor you are simply rolling the dice. is $8 gonna break the bank? i lost a cam for that very reason. not worth the gamble
 

AuroraGirl

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or move up to a roller cam and forget about it.
iM NOT saying thats an invalid route for a lot of engine builders.. but for people who just rebuild the engines to keep them running, people who dont need to tear down the engine for anything, or people who just have old engines and it was just how things were made... why would you say that? my engine runs perfectly fine, why would i change the cam to avoid running an oil additive or just the right oil? seems that my way would make more sense.

Also, think small engines that tended to be older OHV or just flatheads that you dont get new cams for if they even would make such a thing for them.
 

Durfman77

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Schaeffer’s
Supreme 7000™ Synthetic Plus 15W-40
High zinc, multi-grade, synthetic-blend racing oil for use in high performance gasoline engines including those with flat tappet cams and those that are turbocharged or supercharged.

Also make different grades of racing oil VERY GOOD Stuff!!
 

wanderinthru

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I don't even get into all the oil debate these days. With the EPA having oil manufactures by the balls with limitations and requirments, can there really be that much difference? I mean, even Penzoil isn't bad these days. I go for cheap. If it's true or not, I won't swear to it but I've heard Walmart Super Tech brands are made by Valvoline. If I have over 10,000 miles on an engine and I know it's well broke in by now, I got straight to Super Tech Full Synthetic by the gallon. So I cheap out on the oil, but I go big on the oil filter. I run either a Mobil 1 or a K&N oil filter. With synthetic oil and a good filter, I don't even consider changing my oil until at least 10,000 miles. When I pull the dipstick and it's still Gold, pffft, I'm not changing it. I'll go another 4000-5000 before I change it. My engines are clean and they stay clean so I don't sweat it. My oil has been gold even at 15,000 miles. I then gave it to my bro for his oil burner to burn off since he's one of those that would buy it, a quart at a time at a convenience store and pay $4 a quart for conventional Best Value generic oil.

What most don't realize, engine oil DOES NOT wear out. It'll never ever wear out. So then you ask, if that's true, then why do we have to change oil? We don't change oil because it wears out. We change oil because it becomes contaminated and diluted. It can get diluted from condensation in the oil pan. It also gets diluted with gasoline/diesel from blow by. What turns oil black is suit from burnt combustion that gets past the rings. You keep a good filter that can trap the contaminants and condensation your oil will stay clean and function properly. Synthetic oil has slicker and better lubrication properties than conventional oil. Keep the engine slick, keep the wear in your engine down low as possible by using synthetic and keeping it clean, then you can get more miles out of engine. As the engine wears you might change it more often when it appears dirty but even worn, with a good filter and synthetic, I'd never change my oil until 10,000 miles.

Also keep in mind, we've all been told to change your oil every 3,000 miles. That's because that what the oil manufactures and car manufactures tell us. I guess if I manufactured oil I'd want you to buy oil unneccesarily too. Or have to bring your car to me for an oil change more often since my service department is what supports my stealership. Think about that. Go to the UK and see what they recommend for an oil change. Same car in a different part of the world. So why do they get suggested 8,000 miles for oil changes but here in the US it's 3000 miles. Doesn't make much sense does it?


Glad to see I'm not the only one that believes this. Personally, I don't keep up with mileage, but when ever the engine needs a quart, I give it one and remember it's time to change it before it needs another. Will not say it is a "wonder drug" nor snake oil but, also use Lucas additive, 1/2 quart per change, sometimes if it needs a 1/2 quart after it's used it's quart. I run straight 30 wt.
 

ali_c20

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Amsoil Z- rod
That's the only high zinc stuff you can get for a reasonable price in Austria.
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HotRodPC

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Glad to see I'm not the only one that believes this. Personally, I don't keep up with mileage, but when ever the engine needs a quart, I give it one and remember it's time to change it before it needs another. Will not say it is a "wonder drug" nor snake oil but, also use Lucas additive, 1/2 quart per change, sometimes if it needs a 1/2 quart after it's used it's quart. I run straight 30 wt.
Luckily I never need to add a quart on my 454 which is so rare. Most of them burn some oil even if just a little bit. But I just want to add, in the past when I have had vehicles I had to add a quart every 3 or 4000 miles, I always made sure I put the same oil in it. Don't get lazy and when filling up at 7-11 you check your oil, it needs a quart so you buy a quart of whatever they have for and pay $6 for it. I don't do mixing of brands or grades. Probably doesn't hurt anything and I'd use whatever I could get if I were in a situation where I sprung a leak and it's going to take me 2 or 3 quarts to make it home without hurting the engine. Then I fix the leak and do an oil change.
 

wanderinthru

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Luckily I never need to add a quart on my 454 which is so rare. Most of them burn some oil even if just a little bit. But I just want to add, in the past when I have had vehicles I had to add a quart every 3 or 4000 miles, I always made sure I put the same oil in it. Don't get lazy and when filling up at 7-11 you check your oil, it needs a quart so you buy a quart of whatever they have for and pay $6 for it. I don't do mixing of brands or grades. Probably doesn't hurt anything and I'd use whatever I could get if I were in a situation where I sprung a leak and it's going to take me 2 or 3 quarts to make it home without hurting the engine. Then I fix the leak and do an oil change.

Agree, figure its better to run a little low than change brands. Again i don't keep up with mileage.....though dont have but one working speed or Odometer, so lol. Seems mine burn a quart around 5 to 7,000 miles. When they get down to 2 to 5,000 ish, I'll move up to 40wt.
 

AuroraGirl

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My 2001 aurora (see my media for that fun mess) burned about a a quart every 300 miles or so
 

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