Brake line repair

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Wes P

Wes P

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Hi all

Having a bit of trouble with 3/16" front brake lines. Are the rings seen on the fittings normal or going to cause a leak? (photos below)

Thanks!
Wes

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Grit dog

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You mean at the bottom of the flare portion where it’s shiny-er?
No that shouldn’t be an issue.
What trouble are you having?
 
Wes P

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I am talking about the rings on the 45-degree sealing surface. Marks left by the tube flare.
The issue is they are leaking after installing a new brake line.
 
AuroraGirl

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dont they use crush washers?
 
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That's normal on brake components after lines are installed. They don't usually create an issue, but if they do, recheck that your flare is correct. If it is you may have to tighten, loosen, tighten a few times to get it to find it's place. As tempting as it is don't get too crazy with the tightening.
 
Turbo4whl

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Are you using parts store pre-flared lines? I have found the double flares less than perfect many times.

Assuming the flare is good, here is a trick that will help seal the flare. Coat the threads of the nut with anti-seize. Coat the tube under the nut. Then also put anti-seize right on the flare seat of the tube.

This way, when you tighten the nut, this lubricating compound will allow the tube flare to slide and seat on any small imperfections. The small amount of anti-seize that may mix with the brake fluid is not an issue.
 
Grit dog

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^Thats a good tip!
Never thought of using anti seize to get brake lines to tighten up more better.
 
Wes P

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Turbo4whl said:
Are you using parts store pre-flared lines? I have found the double flares less than perfect many times.

Assuming the flare is good, here is a trick that will help seal the flare. Coat the threads of the nut with anti-seize. Coat the tube under the nut. Then also put anti-seize right on the flare seat of the tube.

This way, when you tighten the nut, this lubricating compound will allow the tube flare to slide and seat on any small imperfections. The small amount of anti-seize that may mix with the brake fluid is not an issue.
Click to expand...

One side was pre-flared, the other flare I made with AutoZone (OEM tool) flaring tool. It took 10 tries to get a "good" flare (8 on practice piece and 2 on brake line). I was not satisfied with the stability of the tool so I returned it and ordered a highly-rated tool that uses a cam lever to press the flare (no turning parts).

I will make a new line and try again with Anti-seize as you suggest. (I also wiggle the line in the first stage of tightening for the flare to settle on-center.) Thanks for the tip!
 
Wes P

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Blue Ox said:
That's normal on brake components after lines are installed. They don't usually create an issue, but if they do, recheck that your flare is correct. If it is you may have to tighten, loosen, tighten a few times to get it to find it's place. As tempting as it is don't get too crazy with the tightening.
Click to expand...

I will also try 3 tightening cycles in my next attempt. Thanks!
 
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Wes P said:
One side was pre-flared, the other flare I made with AutoZone (OEM tool) flaring tool. It took 10 tries to get a "good" flare (8 on practice piece and 2 on brake line). I was not satisfied with the stability of the tool so I returned it and ordered a highly-rated tool that uses a cam lever to press the flare (no turning parts).

I will make a new line and try again with Anti-seize as you suggest. (I also wiggle the line in the first stage of tightening for the flare to settle on-center.) Thanks for the tip!
Click to expand...

Did you buy the Eastwood tool? That seems to be the best one without going to a hydraulic one.
 
fast68chevy

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sounds like you ahave been having a real hard time with an inferior double flaring tool kit. the cheap basic and chinese made ones are almost useless. you can get various lengths of 3/16" brake tubings at part stores already double flared, if you want to shorten the length of one or swap out threaded flare fitting thern cut it i half and then reconnect with a 3/16" compression fitting. if you are having bad luck getting a good double flare end with the tool kit you have avaialble.
 
Last edited:
fast68chevy

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AuroraGirl said:
dont they use crush washers?
Click to expand...


flat copper compresion sealing washers are at the rubber flex hoses ends at the caliper banjo bolts, and thats not what hes doing here, it looks like he is at the frame rail end of a flex hose(second pic) which are threaded flare tube nut and normal common double flare end seat
 
Last edited:
Wes P

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Bennyt said:
Did you buy the Eastwood tool? That seems to be the best one without going to a hydraulic one.
Click to expand...

I ordered a TGR tool from Amazon. It looks identical to what Eastwood has on their website. It is available from many brand names and sellers. Prices +/-$10. I will give you feedback about the tool after my next attempt.
 
Wes P

Wes P

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fast68chevy said:
sounds like you ahave been having a real hard time with an inferior double flaring tool kit. the cheap basic and chinese made ones are almost useless. you can get various lengths of 3/16" brake tubings at part stores already double flared, if you want to shorten the length of one or swap out threaded flare fitting thern cut it i half and then reconnect with a 3/16" compression fitting. if you are having bad luck getting a good double flare end with the tool kit you have avaialble.
Click to expand...

You are using compression fittings mid-way on brake lines in your own vehicle? If so, for how long have they been working for you?

You are the second person to recommend this to me. I saw this as a risk, adding 2 additional points with potential to leak, so I didn't try it.
 
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