Scores from DIY Parts Yards, Pull A Part, U Pull It etc

HotRodPC · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
One of our members @WamboJambo has been on the prowl for a 2wd 4 speed manual which around these parts are HARD TO FIND, a friend of mine just bought some property, contacted me asking if i wanted a 350 and 4 speed.
i pull up to his place and there lied a 4 speed and mystery small block.

I was on a mission for wambojambo to go inspect it and make sure it was a good candidate for a swap for his 78.
All the gears worked fine, no excess slop, 1st was tough to get as always, the case had a little water in it, but it was a safe 90/10 ratio of oil and water.

Seperated the trans, Popped the cover and looked inside, looked goopy with oil, but nothing busted inside.

He came and picked that up today.

The mystery motor was my reward, considering the 4 speed out back, i assumed it to be truck motor, either a 350 or 400

As it turns out from running the block and intake numbers, its a 68 327, the first year of the large journal motor.

Odd because of the dinky 2 barrel up top.

Pretty cool regardless.

The number was a toss up between a 1 year 68 327, or a 69-79 350.

The intake numbers said 327.

So, thats my score, a 1968 327

You must be registered for see images attach

You may not think so but that is a great score for you both. I'd lose that 327 crank. Nothing special there. If it were a forged small journal 327 then sticker would peck out but nawww. Lose that crank and go for the 350 or Stroker 383. The nice thing about that block is, it's going to be a good very high nickel block. Do a proper build on that block and it'll last a very long time. Don't be afraid to use something like Chromolly rings that will last a long time too cuz the bore will hold up longer than some of the later model 350 blocks. I'm not one to make a big deal of high nickel block like everyone normally does. A good build will last plenty of time no matter the block but those tend to last even longer. The rings and valves with wear out before the bore does in some cases depending on maintenance and if it was kept clean and did let the cylinders get scored with ****.

HotRodPC · Oct 18, 2020

mcarlo86 said:
Our company has a '68 C50 that originally came with a 327 and a 2 barrel carb. The medium duty truck 327's have steel cranks.

That part tis true. If it's a forged large journal crank, that's a game changer too. I'd then keep the 327 and make a high revving mud truck engine out of it. You can easily make a 300hp high revving engine out of it that will hold up to abuse and all the hp you need for a mud rig. Being a 327 it probably has some small chambered heads on it too which is good for boosting the compression ratio. Probably has some small ports and valves but that's OK too. Run it. What people forget, is those smaller valve, smaller ported heads are great for making bottem end torque. Right where you want it for an off-road engine.

HotRodPC · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
Ooo that means itll take a beating then?

Beat it like a hyper active red headed step child.

HotRodPC · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
Do you have a telephone number i can send pictures to?

If so, PM me and ill send them your way tomorrow when its light outside.

From what I can see in that pic, it appears the alternator is on the left side. That typically means short water pump V belt set up. Alternator on the right side is typically longer water pump.

Vbb199 · Oct 18, 2020

HotRodPC said:
You may not think so but that is a great score for you both. I'd lose that 327 crank. Nothing special there. If it were a forged small journal 327 then sticker would peck out but nawww. Lose that crank and go for the 350 or Stroker 383. The nice thing about that block is, it's going to be a good very high nickel block. Do a proper build on that block and it'll last a very long time. Don't be afraid to use something like Chromolly rings that will last a long time too cuz the bore will hold up longer than some of the later model 350 blocks. I'm not one to make a big deal of high nickel block like everyone normally does. A good build will last plenty of time no matter the block but those tend to last even longer. The rings and valves with wear out before the bore does in some cases depending on maintenance and if it was kept clean and did let the cylinders get scored with ****.

Yeah, i know the small journal cranks are more preferred ones

Vbb199 · Oct 18, 2020

HotRodPC said:
From what I can see in that pic, it appears the alternator is on the left side. That typically means short water pump V belt set up. Alternator on the right side is typically longer water pump.

The alternator doesnt exist, but the place for it is on the pass side

Vbb199 · Oct 18, 2020

HotRodPC said:
That part tis true. If it's a forged large journal crank, that's a game changer too. I'd then keep the 327 and make a high revving mud truck engine out of it. You can easily make a 300hp high revving engine out of it that will hold up to abuse and all the hp you need for a mud rig. Being a 327 it probably has some small chambered heads on it too which is good for boosting the compression ratio. Probably has some small ports and valves but that's OK too. Run it. What people forget, is those smaller valve, smaller ported heads are great for making bottem end torque. Right where you want it for an off-road engine.

Im unsure of what i wanna do with it right now to be honest. Btw i consider it a score.

And the 2wd sm456 WITH a bell is a score too around here. Lol

bucket · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
The alternator doesnt exist, but the place for it is on the pass side

'69, long water pump then. The 327 was 2bbl only that year, but there were 350 and 500 cfm carbs used. I think that's the specs anyway. Mine had the larger Rochester carb on it and iirc, to get a rebuild kit from the local parts store, it was for a '70 2bbl 350.

HotRodPC · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
Yeah, i know the small journal cranks are more preferred ones

Cuz they are ALL forged. Any small journal engine is a forged crank including 265 and 283. Is said those smaller journals cranks can spin the RPM's up faster too. I'd think that's so minimal though it almost can't count. Forged Crank is also going to be heavier so where the small journal adds a bit, I think the weight takes away also. Being no substitute for cubes, may as well go Tree Fitty if you have a large journal 4in bore block. Now granted, 327 being a shorter stroke, built right, can spin the rpms not only quicker but higher and why I suggested if that's a forged large journal crank, then I'd build a mud truck engine outta that bitch in a heart beat. It be a low end grunt high revving 300hp or so engine and perfect for a 4x4 stump puller with the right gears and lockers.

Vbb199 · Oct 18, 2020

bucket said:
'69, long water pump then. The 327 was 2bbl only that year, but there were 350 and 500 cfm carbs used. I think that's the specs anyway. Mine had the larger Rochester carb on it and iirc, to get a rebuild kit from the local parts store, it was for a '70 2bbl 350.

Doesnt match up wjth the block numbers tho which is weird.

Block numbers translated to 69-79 350 cid
Or
68 327 cid

Intake confirmed 327

Unless is another instance of "spare engines from the previous year, throw it in they wont know the difference"

bucket · Oct 18, 2020

HotRodPC said:
Cuz they are ALL forged. Any small journal engine is a forged crank including 265 and 283. Is said those smaller journals cranks can spin the RPM's up faster too. I'd think that's so minimal though it almost can't count. Forged Crank is also going to be heavier so where the small journal adds a bit, I think the weight takes away also. Being no substitute for cubes, may as well go Tree Fitty if you have a large journal 4in bore block. Now granted, 327 being a shorter stroke, built right, can spin the rpms not only quicker but higher and why I suggested if that's a forged large journal crank, then I'd build a mud truck engine outta that bitch in a heart beat. It be a low end grunt high revving 300hp or so engine and perfect for a 4x4 stump puller with the right gears and lockers.

I don't think I could stroke it even being a cast crank. 327's have their own personality.

bucket · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
Doesnt match up wjth the block numbers tho which is weird.

Block numbers translated to 69-79 350 cid
Or
68 327 cid

Intake confirmed 327

Unless is another instance of "spare engines from the previous year, throw it in they wont know the difference"

That listing is incorrect. The '69 327 didn't get it's own block.

Vbb199 · Oct 18, 2020

bucket said:
That listing is incorrect. The '69 327 didn't get it's own block.

3970010, that was it.

No doubting you tho.

You must be registered for see images attach

mcarlo86 · Oct 18, 2020

Dad and I rebuilt that 327 out of the C50 and put it in my '68 C10, replacing a worn out 307. That 327 is impressive. Seems to be a sweet spot with the 4" bore and 3.25" stroke. I love how it revs and seems to have a really flat torque curve for a small cubic inch engine. It has flat top pistons and the original heads (rebuilt with hardened valve seats). I'm thinking the compression has a lot to do with it. We put a 350 in the C50 and Dad swears that the 327 stock had more power. I don't know the specifics on the 350, but I'm guessing it is lower compression. Anyways, I agree with @bucket about the 327 having its own personality. Fun engine.

bucket · Oct 18, 2020

Vbb199 said:
3970010, that was it.

No doubting you tho.

You must be registered for see images attach

Yeah, it's incorrect. Iirc, my '69 327 is the same casting number.

Scores from DIY Parts Yards, Pull A Part, U Pull It etc

HotRodPC

Administrator

HotRodPC

Administrator

HotRodPC

Administrator

HotRodPC

Administrator

Vbb199

B-rate Hillbilly Customs

Vbb199

B-rate Hillbilly Customs

Vbb199

B-rate Hillbilly Customs

bucket

Super Moderator

HotRodPC

Administrator

Vbb199

B-rate Hillbilly Customs

bucket

Super Moderator

bucket

Super Moderator

Vbb199

B-rate Hillbilly Customs

mcarlo86

Full Access Member

bucket

Super Moderator

Similar threads

Latest posts

Forum statistics