My Rear End Build For My Low Buck Street/Race Truck

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

Converter is aftermarket, I will change the converter after I make a engine change. The 327 build was a project for my son to learn how build a engine most people wouldn't waste their time with. We did race Sat.

If you have a TQ peak @ 5200 RPM, where do you want the converter to flash?

HotRodPC · Oct 11, 2020

So I'll take it you didn't make it to the track Saturday. ???

By flash, you're referring to the stall speed right? TQ peak doesn't really matter when selecting a converter IMO. It's nice to know but what's more important is to know the power band range. If you have a power band range of say 2200-6500, then I'd probably go with a 2500 stall or no more than 3000 if it's a track only truck so you're better into the power band range at launch. Gotta keep in mind, the more slip you put into the converter, that power lost to the rear wheels not to mention severe heat to the transmission. So if it was a street/strip truck, then I'd go with the 2500. When thinking of a converter, you also need to know what your rpms are dropping to when you shift. If you have to high of a stall, then it's possible when you shift you're rpms drop to low and the converter has to catch up. With 5.13's I'd imagine that shouldn't be a problem for you.

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

No actually we did race Saturday.

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

HotRodPC said:
So I'll take it you didn't make it to the track Saturday. ???

By flash, you're referring to the stall speed right? TQ peak doesn't really matter when selecting a converter IMO. It's nice to know but what's more important is to know the power band range. If you have a power band range of say 2200-6500, then I'd probably go with a 2500 stall or no more than 3000 if it's a track only truck so you're better into the power band range at launch. Gotta keep in mind, the more slip you put into the converter, that power lost to the rear wheels not to mention severe heat to the transmission. So if it was a street/strip truck, then I'd go with the 2500. When thinking of a converter, you also need to know what your rpms are dropping to when you shift. If you have to high of a stall, then it's possible when you shift you're rpms drop to low and the converter has to catch up. With 5.13's I'd imagine that shouldn't be a problem for you.

In my opinion the truck should be raced in the 5600-7200 RPM range. I never see below 4200 RPM on the track now, thats why it isn't faster than it is.

CoggedBelt75 · Oct 11, 2020

How about posting your time slips so we can see your progress after making changes? Could help others along the way.

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

12.80 @ 104.93 @ 4300. feet DA, cross wind. 1.82 60.

CoggedBelt75 · Oct 11, 2020

No actual slips? The info they provide is a valuable tool. Especially running against someone else their info is also shown

bucket · Oct 11, 2020

Mark Jones said:
12.80 @ 104.93 @ 4300. feet DA, cross wind. 1.82 60.

What heads are you running on that 327?

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

bucket said:
What heads are you running on that 327?

462 castings 1967 327

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

CoggedBelt75 said:
No actual slips? The info they provide is a valuable tool. Especially running against someone else their info is also shown

Of course I have time slips, no way to post them.

60 1.826
330. 5.233
660. 8.128
660 mph. 84.03
1000. 10.665
1320 12.801
mph 104.93

CoggedBelt75 · Oct 11, 2020

Mark Jones said:
Of course I have time slips, no way to post them.

60 1.826
330. 5.233
660. 8.128
660 mph. 84.03
1000. 10.665
1320 12.801
mph 104.93

Just take a pic of them like you’ve done on the other thread pics and upload.
Not bad on the 1\8th mark with one of these non aerodynamic bricks

Mark Jones · Oct 11, 2020

OK

CoggedBelt75 said:
Just take a pic of them like you’ve done on the other thread pics and upload.
Not bad on the 1\8th mark with one of these non aerodynamic bricks

Here you go..........

You must be registered for see images attach

CoggedBelt75 · Oct 11, 2020

How many more runs can you get in before the track closes? And whatcha changing next? Since this on a budget it may take time, but now I’m curious how much you shave off the 60’ and what it took to do it. Nice run tho

Mark Jones · Oct 12, 2020

CoggedBelt75 said:
How many more runs can you get in before the track closes? And whatcha changing next? Since this on a budget it may take time, but now I’m curious how much you shave off the 60’ and what it took to do it. Nice run tho

The 60 foot is horrible. 1320/104.93=12.57. Next changes:

1. Fuel system
2. Ignition system
3. Aluminum drive shaft
4. 360 inch small block
5. Loser converter

Done racing this year. The drive train has a horrible amount of weight, you combine that with the altitude, the truck just will not leave, I'm working with 330 HP and about 285 TQ at this altitude, not enough.

HotRodPC · Oct 12, 2020

I'm impressed. I sure wasn't expecting 7/10th better ET with just a gear change. Was that all you did? So what is your converter stalling at now? And you're going to go to a what??? I was expecting no more than 5/10 or 1/2 second.

Have you considered a 383 stroker kit? You know how is it about racing. You can never get it fast enough, then you want faster and faster. Why not just skip the 360 and go straight to the 383 now? Have you done any research on the 383 kits yet? If you go that route just be sure to get the longer rod kit.

My Rear End Build For My Low Buck Street/Race Truck

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

HotRodPC

Administrator

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

CoggedBelt75

Full Access Member

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

CoggedBelt75

Full Access Member

bucket

Super Moderator

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

CoggedBelt75

Full Access Member

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

CoggedBelt75

Full Access Member

Mark Jones

Full Access Member

HotRodPC

Administrator

Similar threads

Latest posts

Forum statistics