Synthetic Lubricants

In the process of having my axles rebuilt. Want to go full synthetic on everything - diff oil, bearings, u-joints, etc. Years ago I worked at a brokerage - one of their clients was the head of sales for a company called LE / SteelCo. They made the lubricants for NASA's creeper. We were able to buy it in 5 gal jugs. Had that in my original square 30+ yrs ago. No idea whatever became of them, so I've bounced around Mobil, Amsoil, etc. A friend of mine worked maintenance at a steel mill - they used Mobil One grease in the rollers....and thats extremem heat. He'd get me tubes of it all the time (retired now). I know people bitch about the costs but thats not what I'm worried about right now - just wondered what anyone has used and liked.

I've read about white lithium greases for bearings supposed to be great for wear and heat - never seen any (for that). Just wunnerin.

I'm running full synthetic Lucas Oil in front and rear diff and transfer case. It's good stuff, and you can get it in big jugs.

I use full synthetic grease in the zerks. It's the green grease that comes in the green tube. I use it on my tractor as well. Works really well and lasts.

For the engine, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 15K high mileage formula.

All of the above costs more upfront, but saves in the long run when you figure longer drain intervals and peace of mind from knowing you are better protected.

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You can use synthetic on everything but a SM465. Due to the brass syncros it requires hypoid gear oil. Has to be a API/GL-4.

I don't have a newer built motor. I drain oil every year. I don't get the mileage on it for a mileage change, but if I did I leak so much and worry that synthetic oil will clean up the motor well and cause the seals to leak even more than they already do. Regular oil is more than good enough for my truck and me. If I bought sun I would just be paying more when I have to add it as make up oil. Longer drains don't appeal to me. Cause I do it every year anyway

I run Mobil 1 synthetic oil in the engine as I like how it will still pour when cold vs conventional oil. It gets to -20 degrees here in the winter so that is the biggest factor for me. I also run Mobil 1 synthetic in the transfer case.

As far as gear oil in the axles I just use regular. I was given a bunch of it for free, and Eaton recommends regular gear oil in the truetrac differential... which I run in the front. The rear is a detroit locker- it doesn't care I guess what type of oil that is run.

I run schaeffer gear oil in my axles and use there transmission products in my th350.
there grease is really good as well. it is tacky and doesn't pound out like other greases.

I like Schaeffer oil products.Biggest reason is it's more Mom and Pop I can call them and actually talk to someone who knows, not just someone that can read a description.Ive called said this is what I'm doing, this is my goal and bern told yea that'll do it but this will do it better.That would have been better off you were doing this. The customer service is outstanding.

In my other vehicles I have run royal purple without a hitch. I have yet to swap to full synth in the K5...yet

on my new Yukon gear posi synthetic is not recomand (they give you yukon additive)

Super T-10 change to R.P. = hard shift for me? Changed out to Redline and immediate (positive) difference.
Tried R.P. in my Nissan Frontier and same thing?
Amsoil Auto trans on MDX = lazy, boggy shifting? Changed to Honda Syn / no issues.
Use "SYN" oils in all my engines (Great longevity) in all with some doing 350K+
Sitting on a farm tractor for occupation, and firing Big Rig Cat's and Cummin's when it's -35c let's you know
the difference for sure. Monitor oil pressure in any engine at Full Throttle/Full Load for 20 min.
The oil pressure will tell you which one is best.

TPISly-C10 said:

on my new Yukon gear posi synthetic is not recomand (they give you yukon additive)

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On my 94 Z71 I just got me a G80---I know alot people dont like them but I always had good luck with them,,, And for oil ALL schaeffer products and there RACE oil in engine for sure good for flat tappets,,

Every time I look into it I discover that it is Dinosaur oil for the axles, synthetic for everything else. Gears, rearend design, oiling system design all do not like- basically any rearend that did not have any electronic clutch packs from the factory. Also, stay away from flat-faced pumpkin covers- watch the Banks series on youtube. Exceptions: A 205 transfercase will run on anything. A fresh th-based transmission with zero drops of fluid will run better on type-F fluid but don't risk mixing. Synthetic motors that do not get up to temperature build a nasty crystal-film structure from cold splashes and such. Race applications with short run times and frequent rebuilds still prefer conventional.