Electric fuel pump suggestions - For Carburetor

DoubleDingo · Jul 16, 2020

If you keep mounting it for it to pull, it will keep failing no matter what. Or get a fuel command center and go about it that way, but those for the fuel injection setups. Or get the tanks with the pumps in them. Options. But if you just want the old school electric fuel pump it has to be mounted on the frame rail to push the fuel.

Bextreme04 · Jul 16, 2020

They aren't supposed to be mounted that way, but they will survive fairly well as long as they are at least mounted lower than the tank. I think your issue isn't necessarily that it is pulling that far, but that it is pulling uphill into the engine bay. There are a few spots near the selector valve that are already soft line. I would relocate the pump to the frame rail near the selector valve and plump it in line there. That way you are cutting the pull distance by half and not compromising any of the stock system for when you get around to fixing it the right way. My buddy has a twin turbo 8.1L Vortec in his nova that ran an external holley pump on the frame rail from the stock tank to a blow through carb. He had it on their for years and no issues.

Grit dog · Jul 16, 2020

^Thx for the suggestion. I do appreciate the knowledge from everyone.
I’ll see if there’s an easy spot to splice it in under the truck....but off to ID/MT On Sat for the next 2 weeks! Woohoo!

Craig 85 · Jul 16, 2020

Here's what was in my truck prior to me adding the correct mechanical one for my truck. It was mounted back by the fuel selector switch in a large loop.

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Lu Blunt · Jul 16, 2020

I replaced my mechanical pump with the edelbrock 17303 and have atleast 1000 miles since install. I’m not running a regulator. No problems driving. No problems supplying fuel low or high rpm. Ran the tank dry twice n pump still works no problem.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...el6Cy5IFJ4dS5WTWi4dhaMPIQMxl7MtMaApinEALw_wcB

This is my install thread
https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/no-fuel-to-carb.29737/page-2

Grit dog · Jul 24, 2020

Thx for the visual Craig.
I need to do something. Move it back under the truck. Was hoping to just do it all right when the bed comes off.

Grit dog · Aug 8, 2020

Well, just moved it back under the truck like Craig’s pic above.
Got the 17303 pump, will keep the new old one as a spare.
It may have been voltage killing the old ones partly as well, heating them up as the PO just had the choke wire coming out of the main loom to the electric Choke, spliced to the pump.
I kept it as a signal wire , added a relay and 12 ga power from battery and 12ga to pump.
Works good so far.
Don’t like that it takes 3’ of extra fuel line for 2 loops to hook it up, but hopefully it’ll last a while now.

Matt69olds · Aug 25, 2020

If your going to replace the fuel tank, get a tank for a later model TBI truck. They make pumps that are carburetor compatible that fit the factory sending unit.

87scotty · Aug 25, 2020

ali_c20 said:
I'm not aware of any electric fuel pump that likes pulling. I think a quality pump and mounted close to the tank as possible at or below the fuel pickup (then physics supports the pulling from the tank) could be a solution. In tank fuel pump would be the best as they are cooled from the gas. But they are really expensive. Have friends running holleys and msds with pressure regulators for years w/o problems.

i second this i run the in tank pumps and then a aeromotive bypass regulater been good 3 years and i pump alot of fuel lol

75Monza · Aug 25, 2020

Another thing to think of is heat from the exhaust pipe when you put a pump on the rail. I believe in giving everything the best chance to survive, so when I put an electric near the pipes, I rob the shields for the mufflers off a C30 and mount them around the pipes. Or make your own out of stainless roofing flashing, rivet together and bend curves over an old coffee can or similar radius.

Swearbody · Aug 25, 2020

I second the TBI pump if swapping tanks.... Just use a regulator. cant get any cleaner of an install than oem. Run it with a relay from the oil pressure sensor so that it does not continue to run if the engine dies, otherwise it will keep running if you are ever in a wreck and cant cut the ignition off.
You can buy an r10 tank and sender if you want but its not necessary.
You can modify the original sending unit in the c10 for a electric pump pretty easily.Either way your running a regulator.

Poppy 87 · Aug 25, 2020

Todd- Holley blue pump near tank. Holley regulator under hood. Basic electrical, been around forever! Good luck

Matt69olds · Aug 25, 2020

http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html

In my opinion, this is the absolute best and safest way to control an electric fuel pump. No tach signal to the module, no fuel pump. As a added bonus, it cycles the fuel pump for a few seconds when you turn on the key.

I cringe whenever I see or hear fuel pumps powered only with a ignition power source. Imagine being in a serious fender bender, as long as the key is on, the pump is running. God help you and anyone around you if your unable to shut off the ignition.

Dave M · Aug 25, 2020

Hey Matt, couldn't agree more, here's another relay, same principle. Wouldn't have an electric pump without it. I managed to wire one of these to operate both of my fuel pumps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LPG-IN-CAR...179254&hash=item3b4c5876c7:g:XZgAAOSwq9BfRFjf

Electric fuel pump suggestions - For Carburetor

DoubleDingo

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Bextreme04

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Grit dog

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Craig 85

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Lu Blunt

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Matt69olds

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87scotty

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