My Rear End Build For My Low Buck Street/Race Truck

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Mark Jones

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Well.
Dude says he's runnin 13.50 with open 3.08s..
Sounds like he's got it all figured out!
:waytogo:


I'm just getting started.................
 
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Mark Jones

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My rear end build has come to an end, now I have to
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science all the rear suspension out in order to use the new rear end, feels like its trying to pitch the drive shaft, the pinion angle is wrong......it never ends.
 

Turbo4whl

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Had 4:56 in the 53 with a all forged high nickle 283 bored .06 with Jahns forged pistons, stock forged crank, muncie 4 speed w/ modified competition plus, posi in back. Very fun truck, fast on the stop light street racing.

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Look :happy107: I see a Holley on this old beast!

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I'm just getting started.................

Another Holley on this race truck too!? Nice!

Before you slide the axles in your welded spool, paint a line the length of the axle. 1/4 mile guy once told me axles will twist about a full turn before they break. With the line painted you will be able to see how much they are twisting, you'll know when to replace them before they break.
 

Mark Jones

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Look :happy107: I see a Holley on this old beast!



Another Holley on this race truck too!? Nice!

Before you slide the axles in your welded spool, paint a line the length of the axle. 1/4 mile guy once told me axles will twist about a full turn before they break. With the line painted you will be able to see how much they are twisting, you'll know when to replace them before they break.
I've done that before, but I did run aftermarket Mark Williams axels this time.
 

Mark Jones

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1979
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C10
Engine Size
327
My rear end build has come to an end, now I have to
You must be registered for see images attach
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science all the rear suspension out in order to use the new rear end, feels like its trying to pitch the drive shaft, the pinion angle is wrong......it never ends.


I put 4 degrees of negative pinion angle in there and clamped the front of the springs.........now I got something here, its coming together.
 

Mark Jones

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Engine Size
327


Well phase 1 is done, rear end install with suspension work along with driveshaft angles aligned, with drive height set
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I still have the aluminum drive shaft to install, and light weight front rims, but I will test these changes one at a time. Going to the track Friday night.
 

bucket

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Are those spring clamps there to reduce wheel hop if traction begins to break?
 

Mark Jones

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Are those spring clamps there to reduce wheel hop if traction begins to break?
When I first installed the new rear end I had HORRIBLE wheel hop, I reset all the drive shaft angles, negative 3.7 degrees @ the differential, clamped the springs, smoothly just blows the tires off in 3 gears now with zero wheel hop with street tires.....now the question is what will it do at the track hooked up on slicks? I probably should have went the 5.38s, at my altitude you have no power, not even 300 pounds of TQ.

I have no science behind the spring clamps, had to try something.
 

bucket

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When I first installed the new rear end I had HORRIBLE wheel hop, I reset all the drive shaft angles, negative 3.7 degrees @ the differential, clamped the springs, smoothly just blows the tires off in 3 gears now with zero wheel hop with street tires.....now the question is what will it do at the track hooked up on slicks? I probably should have went the 5.38s, at my altitude you have no power, not even 300 pounds of TQ.

I have no science behind the spring clamps, had to try something.

At first I thought they must not do anything at all because when the truck launches, the forward end of the lower leaves should be forced up against the upper leaves. But then with more thought, if the tires start to break traction it may unload those leaves and then begins the hop.
 

Poppy 87

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No idea, but my thought would be clamping the springs such as they are would almost duplicate shortening it thus changing spring rate? Poor man's ladder bar?
 

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