Newbie from Eastern Washington.

81K30 · Aug 12, 2020

Grit dog said:
I’d say switch, fuse, wiring or tank selector valve. Doesn’t really narrow it down, lol.
What I was told though is the selector valve operates such that switching one way energizes the valve and switches to that tank. Switching the switch to the other tank de energizes the tank valve and essentially “defaults” to that tank in the event of a short, bad switch etc.
Idk which tank is the default, but one might assume it’s the left or drivers side since that is the typical side on single tank trucks?
Maybe helps in your diagnosis.

why do you say you can’t test switching the tanks?

Thank you for the input!

I did switch over to the passenger’s side tank on the dash switch. I think that’s my real world test?

I’d say it defaults to the driver’s side tank, but I’m not sure.

My next step is to test power in and power out at the new switch.

If the switch tests fine for voltage/power in and out, then I’ll be testing power at the valve near the tanks to see if it gets power.

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81K30 · Dec 22, 2020

I took her on a run to stretch her legs yesterday and she seemed to come unhinged at the throw out bearing.

Realizing the 396 never came with the SM465 mated to it, I think the TO bearing was the wrong one, or just clapped out.

What are the pros and cons of swapping in an overdrive automatic, like the 700r4 vs researching the proper TO bearing replacement?

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Newbie from Eastern Washington.

81K30

Junior Member

81K30

Junior Member

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