Headlights go on and off

Grit dog said:

82, Might have to start a new thread about your headlights to get more help. Current (no pun intneded) crowd appears to have run out of attention span.

Did you say you have a new headlight switch or thinking about it? That's where I'd start. Idk the best way to diagnose, other than if you hot wire wires to the headlights (with a fuse) and they don't go off, its probably the switch.
Pull the switch and see if it gets hot and cuts out?

Sounds more "regular" than "random" like a short would be. Weak switch, IMO. I recall replacing them on these trucks 30 years ago, the're not bourbon, so doubt they get better with age!

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you must be fun at parties, trying to talk about trucks while people are trying to smash or other topics are on the table..

Thats not a judgement, I do the same thing. Id rather talk about vehicles than most subjects lol.

But yes it is a good point, there seems to be a design element in his switch, but too be fair, his wiring was.. butchered that its hard to know. if original headlight fascia, id say find the wiring diagram. if not original, id say it came out of a 4 on when on high, but it wasnt wired to do that(need a relay i bet) and if PO attempted to wire it like he did that, he would be looking at a burnt down truck likely. Shoddy wiring is best left to the experts, people who solder bulbs instead of soldering new sockets into the wires.

82sbshortbed said:

Yeah I'm gonna get a new switch. Sure won't hurt. Got new lights and plugs on order at Napa. Might as well add a switch. Lol

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You may benefit from an entire forward lighting harness. I'm not sure if the plug in fuse box junction is changed over years, most likely pinouts, but if you get the harness you at most just gotta splice down the line. But that would be fewer and you could hide those for a cleaner look. I'd definitely be looking at your rear harness for a hack job and any other truck wiring.

My grandpa had remove the plug from the rear back harness and hacked it up into butt splices and Taps. No solder or shrink tubing.

The only things I can think of that would be causing something like that are the main light switch and the high/low switch.

and of course, if PO put this column in, who is to say he was able to wire all that properly with a multifunction switch

82sbshortbed said:

Yes two wires to lights. New plugs with engine swap so they should be good.

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The plugs may be new, but that doesn't mean a rich mixture may not be fouling them out. It just really sounded to me like a rich stumble that can be cleared out with some RPM.

I agree that the light issue may be the headlight switch.

That's true. I'm gonna check timing too.

Did you ever find out what was causing your headlight issue?

nolv4ho said:

Did you ever find out what was causing your headlight issue?

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It's in the shop getting a trans swap and gonna have him fix that too while it's in there. I got tired of messing with it. Lol

82sbshortbed said:

Haven't run a full tank through it yet. About 10 gal run thru it. I've got a filter before the pump and one before the carb so I don't think trash is getting in it. Found a lot of rusty ground connections. Loose wires to the headlights.

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Missing the plugs for the lights. Po soldered the wires on to lights.

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2 loose wires on drivers side. Both seem to be the same color. Orange or yellow.

I hate this **** but, I'm gonna do it anyway. I'm c leaning up all grounds to lights and battery. I bought new battery cables and an extra ground wire to go from motor to frame. Wanted a braided one but this one will do.

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Gonna go get 4 new head lights and plugs for them tomorrow if they have the plastic plus for the lights.

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Looks like the "Po" needs an "s" added to his title after that type of work. LOL