Chassis brace help

Hi guys, anyone have a photo of their front chassis brace,87 C10 The one just below the radiator that the proportioning valve mounts to, mine is all bent out of shape cause some muppet must have tried to tow the truck with it. Before I drill out the rivets and try and reshape mine it would be good to know what it’s supposed to look like.
Thanks
G

1977 k25



1978 k10


i know frame horns changed but i dont think that would affect this at all. id think yours was hallow for weight reduction and possibly and aero thing, but i dont think the brace has a direct line with oncoming air, but i could be wrong.

The 2wd crossmembers are shaped different than the 4x4 trucks.

I might be able to get a picture of a non-bent one later today.

So this one is an '88. 1/2 ton. It seems very similar to my '78 3/4 ton. Iirc, my '84 C10 has the big cutouts like yours, but it's also bent like yours.

Thanks guys appreciate you reaching out, so far none of them look like mine, my truck is 87R10 2 wheel drive Silverado I would not have thought this part would have changed just for the 87 year. Have looked at LMC, Brothers etc and cannot find it listed as a spare part.

Looks like the 4wd trucks have a completely different set up

There is a SWB that’s a customers at the shop it has a cross member and it has cut outs in three places. Meaning it’s not one solid piece.

Soon as I roll my lazy butt out of bed and get to the shop I’ll snap a pic fer ya!

Btw if my pic is the same one you have you owe me a vegimite sandwich!

Yes the 2wd is different then the 4wd.

They were solid in the "c" series until somewhere in the early to mid 80's when they cut out holes to reduce weight. The very rear crossmember has the same changes.

The early and late interchange so if you can find one from a donor vehicle, I'd swap it out.

Also, I believe the C20 was slightly thicker to correspond to the thicker frame steel but it still interchanges as well. I used one off a C20 on my sons c10 that was damaged from towing and it was just slightly thicker and heavier.

There are about 5-7 variations in the frames over the years between the frame horns, cross members, etc. The later frames also have a section that bends up under the cab that a lot of guys cut out and replace so they can body drop the trucks.

I would also inspect the frame very well under the steering box for cracks. Easily repairable and braces are available from ORD, Ridetech, and auto fab to strengthen up this area.

BigDaddy, you are on for the vegimite anytime, it’s fun to watch Americans try it the expression on thier faces is priceless, appreciate your help.

Bennyt, thanks for the info, not much chance of finding a frame here Downunder, no cracks in the frame that I can see, just this twisted up cross brace, I could just leave it alone shut the hood and ignore it, but hey now I know it’s twisted up it’ll just do my head in.
I’m in the middle of doing a cam change getting rid of all the TBI system and have all the front off the engine so now is the time to straighten/replace this cross brace if I can. It’s annoying that it’s riveted in, would have been much easier if it was bolted.

GTP51 said:

Bennyt, thanks for the info, not much chance of finding a frame here Downunder, no cracks in the frame that I can see, just this twisted up cross brace, I could just leave it alone shut the hood and ignore it, but hey now I know it’s twisted up it’ll just do my head in.
I’m in the middle of doing a cam change getting rid of all the TBI system and have all the front off the engine so now is the time to straighten/replace this cross brace if I can. It’s annoying that it’s riveted in, would have been much easier if it was bolted.

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Cant be secured in with rivets if its liquid

Sorry mate no pictures for ya today it was raining buckets, but I promise first clear day I’ll snap a few.

Concerning the rivets... If you center punch them dead in the middle and start with a small drill bit and work your way up in three sizes they aren’t that bad.

the metal is softer than what you think it would be.

with a little tap magic, or tapping fluid of any kind they go pretty quick.

On the c30 my son and I are building now, I drilled out right around 60 of them in an afternoon using the same 3 drill bits and liberal amounts of tap magic. (I love that stuff smells like cinnamon lol!!)

Oh almost forgot, I might take a pass on the vegimite sandwich but, if I ever make it down under maybe we could blow the frost of a cup, and listen to some “Men At Work” A nice cold Fosters would hit the spot!

Sorry I got carried away I love those little guys!!

Thanks for being a good sport about my razzing ya a bit! All in good fun.

Here's a pic of one off of an 84 C20. Maybe the wrong angle but it might help. A bit far away or you could come cut these rivets and leave with this one. I won't be using the front of this frame.

BigDaddy72 said:

Sorry mate no pictures for ya today it was raining buckets, but I promise first clear day I’ll snap a few.

Concerning the rivets... If you center punch them dead in the middle and start with a small drill bit and work your way up in three sizes they aren’t that bad.

the metal is softer than what you think it would be.

with a little tap magic, or tapping fluid of any kind they go pretty quick.

On the c30 my son and I are building now, I drilled out right around 60 of them in an afternoon using the same 3 drill bits and liberal amounts of tap magic. (I love that stuff smells like cinnamon lol!!)

Oh almost forgot, I might take a pass on the vegimite sandwich but, if I ever make it down under maybe we could blow the frost of a cup, and listen to some “Men At Work” A nice cold Fosters would hit the spot!

Sorry I got carried away I love those little guys!!

Thanks for being a good sport about my razzing ya a bit! All in good fun.

Click to expand...

nice quality step bit works wonders when the head of the rivet doesnt protrude too much