Double wall exhaust system, anybody do it ?

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80BrownK10

80BrownK10

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mtnmankev said:
Dammit, I ordered the wrong filter, (33040) so I guess I get to tighten the **** out of the hose clamps and pray it doesn't leak.
The 33041 with 3/8 fittings in and out has the return line sticking out of the filter housing about halfway down the shell of the filter and it looks like the filter has an ********.

When I drove the truck 2 days ago and it quit running, there was a slight amount of pressure in the driver's tank when I loosened the gas cap.
I could see a vacuum in the tank making it hard to pull gas from the tank, but a bit of pressure should (in my thinking) allow gas to be pumped out easier.

I don't think I blocked off any vent or return lines, and I will double check to see if the return line is attached to the switch solenoid.

For Volcanomike: the truck has stock manifolds. I yanked the headers off when they burned through the pipes, they were causing heat soak issues with the starter, so I heat tape wrapped them to take care of the heat soak problem but the increased heat trapped by the wrap caused them to burn out.
Click to expand...
You had to block a return right? Don't you have a three line system, but only use the supply to the carb line? If you have a return won't that filter make no difference, since both will allow fuel to return, but the filter I guess would return more fuel allowing the fuel pump to pass more cooler fuel through it to hopefully not lock.
 
mtnmankev

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80BrownK10 said:
You had to block a return right? Don't you have a three line system, but only use the supply to the carb line? If you have a return won't that filter make no difference, since both will allow fuel to return, but the filter I guess would return more fuel allowing the fuel pump to pass more cooler fuel through it to hopefully not lock.
Click to expand...

I never blocked the return line since the electric pump was all I needed (so I thought) to pump gas to the carb.
 
Grit dog

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^So you’re already returning fuel from a return line from the carb?
I thought the 3 line system return did it at the fuel pump (mechanical).
If that’s the case and it’s returning (the majority of the fuel at idle) then I don’t think the filter will help.
still curious as I wonder if no fuel return line kills these little electric Fuel pumps. I’ve gong through 2 (cheap mr gasket) in only 6-8 tanks of fuel.
I know my pump is mounted in the wrong location and that’s not helping, but....
Thinking about getting one of those filters to hook to the return line.
 
mtnmankev

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The truck has two lines, supply and return.
3 lines on the pump (if it had a mechanical pump) in, out to carb, and return.
The vent would go to the charcoal cannister if it had one.
 
Grit dog

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Curious if you still have the factory heat shields?
Just got into min last night, as I’m going to relocate the electric fuel pump back down by the tank selector valve and all the fuel line components are well shielded from the (Dual) exhaust. One each side between the tank and mufflers and one forward of that protecting the tank Valve and fuel lines.
 
mtnmankev

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Truck did not have heat shields, and I don't see any holes in the frame to bolt any in ..... so i go without.
 
volcanomike

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Just put a mechanical pump with return on my K10 and put a custom return line on with a diverter valve depending on tank selection. Solved my vapor lock issue. No more loss of fuel pressure or stalling. I have fuel line into mechanical, fuel line to carb, return line to diverter valve.


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Frankenchevy

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For the 13th time...you should put a mechanical pump on it! Lol
 
mtnmankev

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volcanomike said:
Just put a mechanical pump with return on my K10 and put a custom return line on with a diverter valve depending on tank selection. Solved my vapor lock issue. No more loss of fuel pressure or stalling. I have fuel line into mechanical, fuel line to carb, return line to diverter valve.


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Click to expand...


Glad you were able to solve your vapor lock issues.
Since I really don't have the option of a mechanical pump, I have to hope the fuel filter with a return line to the tank solenoid will do the trick.
It was delivered today and i will go in and pick it up tomorrow, and install it when I get home.
I will keep the forum updated if it does the trick for me.
 
mtnmankev

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Frankenchevy said:
For the 13th time...you should put a mechanical pump on it! Lol
Click to expand...

Only if somebody will buy me a cam and lifter set.
The cam lobe that runs the pump is worn badly and makes way too much noise.
Or, if somebody can tell me an easy way to measure the amount of wear on the cam lobe, I can build up some weld on a fuel pump rod to make up that difference.
 
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volcanomike

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mtnmankev said:
Only if somebody will buy me a cam and lifter set.
The cam lobe that runs the pump is worn badly and makes way too much noise.
Click to expand...
$111 from summit for a 1106 Cam, save your pennies.


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mtnmankev

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volcanomike said:
$111 from summit for a 1106 Cam, save your pennies.


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1). I live on a small disability check and there is NO money for that kind of purchase, and I need that truck running properly NOW.
2). My friend had a REALLY bad experience with a Summit cam, had to return it for a refund because it wasn't hardened and wiped out in less than 15 minutes run time.
He ordered a GOOD cam from Schneider's in San Diego.
 
Frankenchevy

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mtnmankev said:
Only if somebody will buy me a cam and lifter set.
The cam lobe that runs the pump is worn badly and makes way too much noise.
Or, if somebody can tell me an easy way to measure the amount of wear on the cam lobe, I can build up some weld on a fuel pump rod to make up that difference.
Click to expand...
Maybe someone has an old stock cam laying around to measure. Not sure that’ll work though. With a worn lobe eccentric, it won’t move a mechanical pump arm through its full range of motion. In fact, worn or not, isn’t a stock length pump rod long enough to ride in constant contact with the lobe, including the lobe base?
 
volcanomike

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mtnmankev said:
1). I live on a small disability check and there is NO money for that kind of purchase, and I need that truck running properly NOW.
2). My friend had a REALLY bad experience with a Summit cam, had to return it for a refund because it wasn't hardened and wiped out in less than 15 minutes run time.
He ordered a GOOD cam from Schneider's in San Diego.
Click to expand...
Put a 1105 cam in my Camaro with the lifters and have had zero issues. Most people don’t run zinc in their oil like they should. Also to go back to something I saw earlier about heat soaking the starter, that can be fixed with an external solenoid. Did that on the Camaro also.


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mtnmankev

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Frankenchevy said:
Maybe someone has an old stock cam laying around to measure. Not sure that’ll work though. With a worn lobe eccentric, it won’t move a mechanical pump arm through its full range of motion. In fact, worn or not, isn’t a stock length pump rod long enough to ride in constant contact with the lobe, including its the lobe base?
Click to expand...

No, it does not stay in contact with the lobe.
When the engine is running, it made a constant tick-tick-tick sound from the clearance it developed.
Tried 4 mechanical pumps, all new or gently used, and it made the same noise each time.
I can't see the pump rod being worn, as it's hardened steel.
It would make more sense to me logically, the cam lobe is at fault.
After all, it IS a made in Mexico Goodwrench engine.
 
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